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Sorry it took so long to get back. The parts came in last tuesday but had to wait until this weekend to get started. Sure enough. the inner, smaller spring in the 1-2 accumulator was in 4 pieces. I had purchased both springs and a new cylinder and cover. Put everything back together with a new...

Hopefully this solves the problem. I've got 271,000 miles on the tranny and engine. I've owned it from day 1. This is the first tranny problem I've had. I rebuilt the transfer case and replaced the timing chain at 130,000. I've got an oil leak that's been steady from the oil pan gasket, but its...

So it looks most likely to be a broken spring or sticking accumulator piston. Also looks like the valve body doesnt need to come off for the 1-2 shifter accumulator repair. I'm going to order the new springs and piston and also a new oil pan gasket and filter. Doesn't look too difficult. If I'm...

So how do I know if I have the 4R70W transmission or the 5R55E ?

Yes, I had the transmission fluid flushed and replaced about 40,000 miles ago. Its been done on schedule throughout its life. Always full synthetic. I've never had a single issue with the transmission up to yesterday when it started doing this.

If I let off the gas it shifts right into 2nd gear. Otherwise it holds 1st gear up to around 4,000rpm. Otherwise everything is shifting smooth as ever. Ive heard it could just be a loose vacuum line to a modulator valve and also that the transmission is electronic and there is no modulator...

The alternator is working within the normal parameters. Everything about the electrical system is stock, so nothing is pulling any extra load on anything. Nothing has been showing any of the signs of a bad alternator or one going south and my battery is about 2 years old.

I have had the cam position sensor code for about a month. The check engine light will occasionally go out but its back on within a day. I'm in a 97 mountaineer V8 with 240,000mi. Its running fine, mpg is normal. I just replaced all the spark plug wires. I wanted to just try replacing the cap to...

I've read the threads explaining the process of using the alignment tool but my question that I have not seen answered is do I need the alignment tool if I'm just replacing the plastic sensor cap and leaving the synchro intact? Or do you have to replace the synchro with the sensor?

What exactly do you mean by locked up? Does that mean it is not running at all or does that mean it is continually running?

Im doubting its the blend door or heater core. The temp gauge will go to about 1/4, but never gets half way up. If I'm not moving the temp gauge moves up to that point, but as soon as I get above 60-70mph on the freeway the gauge starts dropping immediately. And sometimes it will drop down as...

This summer I replaced the front timing cover and while at it put in a new t-stat. Approximately 2 months later the t-stat went bad and the truck would not produce any heat and the gauge never got above the c. When I replaced it I also realized it was a 160' t-stat. So I put in another 180'...

I've been running 34 psi since I got the tires. The 26 on the door just seemed ridiculous unless I was driving in sand or something extreme off-road.

I just put on 4 new firestone destination a/t's on my 97 mountaineer 5.0 w/ the stock wheels 235/75/15 size. The door jamb calls for 26 psi all the way around but this has always seemed on the low side. Should I stick with it or increase the psi and if so how much?

So I rtv'ed around the spline and key and then used the center bolt to but the pulley/harmonic balancer/timing key ring on. On my mountaineer all of those were one big piece. To finish torquing I put the accessory belt back on and put a pry bar btw the bolts on the water pump pulley. It held...

So, everything is almost done, except I need to put the harmonic balancer pulley back on and then the radiator. Do I need a special tool to put it on or just use the bolt and torque it down and do I need to remove the starter and get a special tool to hold it so it does not just spin? Can you...

So now I have the timing cover going on over the dowels with the bottom u gasket in place, but the 2 larger bolts on the oil pan coming up will not go in. This thing is driving me to the edge. Every time I solve one problem another pops up. I'm wondering if I should just cut the remaining metal...

From my research on this forum so far, There seem to be quite a few people who have done this without dropping the oil pan and removing the engine. And the Haynes book even explains the process of doing this without dropping the pan, which is what I have followed. I just can't for some reason...

So I black rtv'ed everything, put the timing cover gasket in place and can not get the timing cover back on. Now I just have a huge mess to clean up before trying again tomorrow. Question: I just took off the cover by removing the 4 bolts going through the oil pan into the cover and the...

I replaced my water pump myself on my 97 mountaineer 5.0 a year and a half ago and had no leak problems. Suddenly 4 days ago the temp gauge spiked and when I checked the radiator it was bone dry with coolant leaking. I filled it up and made it home with no major problems. Then yesterday in a...

I was greasing my upper /lower ball joints and tie rod ends today when i discovered one of my tie rod ends would not take any grease. I replaced both a year ago so they are fairly new. I took out the zerc fitting and put in a new one and also tried to clean out the opening as best as possible...

I guess I was thinking 1 piece in that the other piece is the actual control arm already attached. So how did you go about getting the ball joint in the knuckle if it was not attached to the upper control arm piece? The half piece with the ball joint would need to be held by hand? Did you have...

Everything is fine except that I can not for the life of me get the passenger side upper ball joint to go go down into the spindle far enough to get the bolt through. Once I get to were the ball joint tapers wider it just freezes. I have beat the thing with a small sledge to no avail. Any ideas...

Thanks. I will definitely try using a pickle fork for the lower and see we're it goes from there. The upper joints I'm replacing so maybe they will be a little easier once the new parts are in.

So I replaced both upper and lowers about 5 yrs. ago no problem and started today to replace both lower ball joints and tie rod ends. 1)After taking everything apart I can not in any way get the supporting assembly/bracket that holds the tie rod, brake caliper and ball joints to come free from...