Considering timing chain guide and tensioner replacement

I have a high mileage Aviator that has treated me pretty well since I've owned it (2 yrs, ~35k). Recently I've had some rattles/squeaks coming from the front of the motor. I started by replacing all the idler / tensioner pulleys for the serpentine belt. That made some improvement, but there are clearly other issues. Morning start ups usually make me cringe. But after a second or two it sounds fine, and runs fine overall.
We are planning a ~1500 trip to the mountains this winter and I don't think it would be wise to let this condition go on much longer.
I've done multiple timing belt jobs, but don't have any experience with chains.

I've done some searching and quite a bit of reading but I still have some concerns.

Consensus seems to be the crank/cams don't need to be physically held in place. Setting the crank at 12 o'clock will keep spring pressure on the shafts fairly neutral so they won't rotate on their own. Yes/no?

when I did the serpentine work I had a lot of trouble dealing with the fan and shroud. It seems there's a tool to take the fan off pretty quickly which would allow the shroud to be removed much easier. I hope it's a simple as it sounds b/c it was very irritating to do the serp with it in the way.

I've read that it's a good idea to secure the chain to the sprockets before relieving tension (assuming sprockets/chains are sound). Zip ties?
The DS sprocket appears to be solid. I don't see how that chain would be secured.
At 170k+ would it be wise to replace the chains while I'm there?
How much more involved is that vs just guides/tensioners?

I'll leave it at that for now. I have a lot of other concerns, but it's already getting pretty long.

6 or 8?

8s are easy.
Pass side bank of the 6 canted be done unless you pull the motor out or the trans off.

You've got the DOHC, not sure how much that changes everything. I used the zip ties to tighten the chains so they didn't allow the cams to move. This of course requires reusing the chains and tensioners. Technically, your chains and gears can go the life of the car. It's the tensioners and guides that usually physically go bad.


For your start ups in the mean time, try this trick:
Press the gas pedal to the floor. Crank the engine for 2-3 seconds. Then start the car normal. This procedure will allow the oil pump to presurize the tensioners, but not allow the car to start.

If it doesn't make noise, then your tensioner just isn't holding pressure after sitting for a period. If it still makes a lot of noise, then I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed.

Edit: Fan shroud and fan assembly will have to come off for this repair. Along with a lot of other items.

Thanks 4.

I found this thread via websearch (didn't find it in my forum search??).
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204267

That's going to answer a LOT of my questions.

If I determine I need to do this I'm hopeful I can just do guides and probably just primary tensioners.

According to those that seem to know these engines very well the secondary chains/guides/tensioners rarely have issues.

From what I can tell, the DOHC is identical except there's an additional "secondary" sprocket behind what would be the sohc sprockets that runs a short chain to the 2nd cams on each head.
Several photos out there...


If I'm going to open this thing up I would LIKE to replace the secondary tensioners as well, but it appears I'd have to remove the cam sprockets to do that which would involve retiming and all that crap I don't want to have to do. That, combined with what seems to be the consensus that the secondaries rarely have any problems (no angles, not much tension/friction to deal with) I don't think I'm going to touch them.
I'm hoping it's a basic process of securing the chains, removing the guides and tensioners and reinstalling the (6?) new parts.

The truck does seem to start w/less noise if I WOT crank it for a few seconds before starting so I'm optimistic I just have a worn tensioner. However, I expect the wear from the past few hundred sloppy starts is affecting the guides.
This morning, at ~20 degrees and having sat for 4 days there were just a few minor squeaks before it smoothed out.

My guides were perfect, the noise in mine was the chain slapping the crank phaser (sp?) wheel. It doesn't come in any kits. $20 from Ford and a day's wait.

So what was faulty that made the chain slap the crankshaft timing sprocket?

The passenger side tensioners 'tip' seal was allowing oil to seep out. So if it sat for any long period, the chain would have slack until the oil pump primed the tensioner again.

Not to get totally off subject but I'm new to the site and am not familiar with New Thread Posting.
I just bought a used 2003 Ford explorer w/ a 4.6L SOHC 2V - Vin Number W (Romeo MI. Plant)
I Have to replace Timing Chain, guides, Tensioners. Also, need the Cam holding tools, Camshaft positioning adaptor, Crankshaft positioning tool. I Looked all over Amazon for these parts/Tools for the Romeo tools and can't seem to find them. The Windsor seems to be available. I'm a little low on the coin so I want to use my Amazon credit.
Can anyone help me find the Timing Chain tools and Part Numbers I need for this Romeo Manufactured Abortion of an engine. I've had three explorers, a 96 and 2 98's with the 5.0L and never had a problem, nothing like this anyway.
Thanks in advance...
PS I also need Gaskets for the intake manifold and the rest of this leaking sludge Mobile. Peace!

The only tool available for the 4.6l in the 2002-2005 explorers is the crank position tool. The cam holder only works with 98 and earlier 4.6l.

The Ford manual tells you to remove the cam followers.

Thanks for the reply Number4. I was going to buy the Timing Chain Kit with the sprockets, so removal of the bolts would be a pain unless I use the chain or a 2x4 to secure the sprocket, I'm guessing. From what I understand, removing the Cam Followers is easy using a flat head screwdriver, Correct?
Thanks-

I didn't remove the followers. I also didn't need to replace my gears or chains. Used zip ties to maintain tension on the chain (so the cam gears wouldn't skip links.) If your chain cut through your guides, I'd replace it, which means you need to pop the followers out.

I purchased the cam tool only to find out that it didn't work. Yeah for me.

I just did this repair, all of the information on this site helped a lot. I bought a Ford OEM Kit that included guides, tensioners, and chains for $138 from freedomracing. Also bought a Felpro front cover gasket and front seal kit on Amazon. Also bought RTV sealent for crankshaft key way and joints under valve covers and front cover. My chains looked fine but I went ahead and replaced them anyways. I did not use the crankshaft tool to get TDC, I just did it by eye and I didn't undo cam followers or use a cam holding tool and everything seemed to go fine. Just set TDC and lined up the links with the gear dots.
I got loaner tools from Pep Boys: OEM brand harmonic balancer puller, harmonic balancer installer, pulley puller/installer (power steering), fan clutch wrench, & fan clutch holding tool. They had me buy them and refund me when I returned them. Good deal to me! The right tools helped.
The problems I had were as follows:
1) the RH valve cover was very difficult to get on and off, as someone mentioned, because of the A/C lines. Tight fit, had to force and coerce.
2) I didn't have a strap wrench or impact gun to get bolt out of harmonic balancer, so I tried the method shown by 1A Auto in the YouTube video, drilling holes in a 2x4 for the 3 puller bolts to hold it and a big hole To put a socket on the bolt. I broke off 2 bolts in the balancer, then I broke off the easy out too so I drilled them out and tapped new threads. I finally got a strap wrench for the bolt and then used the puller. I bought a new balancer because all the drilling I did.
3) reinstalling the harmonic balancer, the OEM brand installer wouldn't work, the crankshaft threads were recessed too deep. And the balancer bolt is too short. So I bought a longer bolt and used the bearing from the installer tool. It would probably work without the bearing, too. Tightening it was difficult, too because the strap wrench slipped under high torque.
4) my timing sprocket on the crankshaft was all gouged on the face from the loose chain. The teeth looked good so I just put it back on. I hope that works out OK, lol.
Ford dealer wanted $1,950 and I did it for under $300 (including new harmonic balancer).
It probably took me 20 hours or so, with all the trouble I had with balancer. Hope this helps someone. Good luck. Shade tree mechanic here, you can do it!

Finally got to the halfway point.
Was hoping to be close to finishing up by now.

Anyway -- the liner on the left guide is gone. Part of it (4" or so) was laying at the bottom of the front cover. Don't see the rest. That is concerning. I took a stiff piece of wire (old hanger) and reached back in the oil pan but didn't feel/hear anything.

Is there a practical way to re-torque the crank bolt that doesn't involve an impact tool?
I tried to make a bar with bolts through it to hold it as I removed it, but it bent in the process. I have a little impact, but it won't give me more than 50 lb-ft or so.

I bought a tool from NAPAs 'cheap' tools, the ones on the sales floor. Part number 776-9139. It had two knobs threaded into it that could be removed.

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=BK_7769139_0361131964

Then I put two 8x1.25 (I think, don't remember length) bolts through it and into the balancer. To keep the bolts from bending, I used two deep sockets to take up the space between the tool and where the bolts went into the balancer.

Had to use a piece of pipe to extend the tools reach to the ground. If you don't use the sockets, or take up the space, they'll just bend.