Tricks to replacing 5.0 water pump

Basically I don't want to have to pull my timing cover by breaking off any bolts. Any tricks to this? The pump, AFAIK, isn't leaking or making noise but I do need to replace that little hose between the pump and oil cooler.

It has 148k on it, I just bought it, no idea if it's been changed before.

Also I can't find a parts listing for that little hose from the pump to oil cooler, where can I find one?

Thanks all

About the only hose that will fit correctly is an OEM Ford part, but I don't know how easy it will be to locate. Maybe cut a section from a longer hose of same diameter? Whatever route you decide to go best wait until you have plenty of rest and patience, as it's a MF'er no matter how you slice it! As for water pump bolts, I broke two (opposite ends) but I wasn't about to deal with a timing chain cover so I tapped and plugged the holes in the pump corresponding to the broken bolts then RTV'd the timing cover before installing the pump. Been a year, no leaks yet...

Bill

I like to ( dont laugh) stick the bolts in a foam block that I drew the outline of the pump on, great example why is the 5.0 in my 97 sport, l got it cheap cause it didn't run and i knew why, I could see someone had changed the water pump, long of the short they mixed the bolts up and poked through the timing cover and broke the timing chain. Other than that and making sure you have the right gasket and the fan tool its just a pain in the ass job, I know dayco makes that hose I'll try to get you a part number.

delexploder said:

I like to ( dont laugh) stick the bolts in a foam block that I drew the outline of the pump on, great example why is the 5.0 in my 97 sport, l got it cheap cause it didn't run and i knew why, I could see someone had changed the water pump, long of the short they mixed the bolts up and poked through the timing cover and broke the timing chain. Other than that and making sure you have the right gasket and the fan tool its just a pain in the ass job, I know dayco makes that hose I'll try to get you a part number.

Click to expand...

i do the same thing with a piece of cardboard. as far as not breaking the bolts, i find that if you can give stuck bolts a couple of good whacks with a hammer it can break the rust bond that's keeping them stuck. also using an impact wrench (if you have the room) can help get them loose without breaking them because the hammering action doesn't really apply much turning force until the bolt starts to spin. if you don't believe me try holding the impact socket with you hand and you'll see it just jerks back and forth.

You talking about striking the bolt head with a hammer head on?

Should I soak the bolts in PB blaster for the next month and keep driving it, to loosen up the corrosion?

Try to get some kroil its way better than pb blaster,

I actually have some kroil, and the seafoam deep creep.

masospaghetti said:

You talking about striking the bolt head with a hammer head on?

Should I soak the bolts in PB blaster for the next month and keep driving it, to loosen up the corrosion?

Click to expand...

yes hit the bolts head-on, hard. never hurts to soak with something good like kroil. heat can help too (like a handheld torch).

masospaghetti said:

You talking about striking the bolt head with a hammer head on?

Should I soak the bolts in PB blaster for the next month and keep driving it, to loosen up the corrosion?

Click to expand...

yes hit the bolts head on. pb blaster or anything similar will be good to. (everyone has their own recipe of what works best but its all the same) pb blaster, wd40 kroil. ive heard of heating a kids crayon and letting the wax run down onto the bolt even.. living up north i had some rusty ass bolts and they came out pretty easy with wd40 and an impact. once you get the fan off and belt there is plenty of room to work in there.. like mentioned by koda i think.. an impact does more vibrating than just using torque to get bolts loose so it is a little more forgiving than if you were to just ream on it with a socket.
the hose you are talking about i believe i changed that to and got one from rock auto.. it was slighty a different shape and like 3 inches to long.. so i had to cut it.. i thought that was weird but it fits now and no leak so whatever i guess.. When i get home from work i will look up the part number for that hose

So looking at my pump again it looked like I already had a broken bolt - I assume someone had replaced the pump already, given how shoddy the reassembly of hose clamps in the area was - and removed the pump. Amazingly, all bolts came right out with very little effort.

The bolt I thought was broken appears to be a locating peg! Am I correct in this, or it a really rounded off stud? It's the location closest to the driver's side.

masospaghetti said:

So looking at my pump again it looked like I already had a broken bolt - I assume someone had replaced the pump already, given how shoddy the reassembly of hose clamps in the area was - and removed the pump. Amazingly, all bolts came right out with very little effort.

The bolt I thought was broken appears to be a locating peg! Am I correct in this, or it a really rounded off stud? It's the location closest to the driver's side.

Click to expand...

That does sound familiar to what mine was.. Almost every bolt was different and I believe i had a few of those rounded off locating peg stud things (i dont remember the location of them).. I ordered my new pump online over the phone and the guy recommended new "studs" he called them but i declined and used my original ones... 5k miles and no leaks yet..

It's a broken bolt...the 5.0 uses no studs. Dorman sells a bolt kit, 2 have the long ones with the nub on it for the harness and there's one regular 5/16 thread bolt.

Bill

Yeah, it's definitely a broken stud. I was fighting it for a few hours today with heat, vise grips, penetrating oil, and a hammer. So far it's stud 1, me 0. Out to get a stud extractor set.

How can I get the crank bolt loose? I am not sure even with the radiator removed I can fit an impact gun in there. I tried a strap wrench on the balancer but it's not enough to keep it from rotating.

Try and turn the stud into the engine a little bit first. Part of your problem right now is you are trying to turn out a stuck bolt that is pulling a big chunk of rust into the threads with it.

If you get it to turn, back it out a little, then go back in a hair, back it out a little more, and so on until you get it all the way out.

I will try working it back and forth and soaking it with penetrating oil. I just ordered a stud removal tool, will be curious to see how it works. Unfortunately I will be without it for a few days so its vice grips until then.

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Stud-Puller-Drive-Model/dp/B00265M8N4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377114048&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+removal+tool

I got the stud out! I borrowed a Mac Tools stud removal set and it worked like a charm - got it out on the first try.



http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/product/tabid/120/p-320145-4-pc-sae-stud-puller-set.aspx

I broke my timing cover trying to get it off though...so hopefully the replacement Dorman makes is of decent quality.

Broke the upper right bolt. Broke off at the head.
NO WAY I am taking the front of this engine off at 281,000 miles.
What now? Do I need to remove the bolt, or can I just pretend it's not there and rtv it up?

My truck has 2 broken bolts-the upper right and upper left. Black RTV a year ago and still no leaks or signs of leaks, even with a 16lb cap and 195 thermostat. One of the bolts broke below the surface of the timing cover so I tapped the hole in the pump and screwed in a plug. If I were you I'd try the RTV first, given the age and miles of your truck....

Bill

Just a word of advice, you need to drop the oil pan slightly to get the timing cover off, properly. I tried pulling it off with the oil pan tight and it broke the timing cover.

The Haynes manual will not tell you to do this, nor will the instructions that come with the Felpro gasket kit.

I had to loosen ALL oil pan bolts to allow it to drop enough to reseat the new gasket. I dont see how its physically possible to install the new cover and gasket without doing this. Be warned, its very, very difficult to access all of the oil pan bolts with AWD because the front differential blocks access to a handful of bolts. I could just barely get them out and back in using a bunch of extensions and a u-joint, and it was not easy.

Why did you tap the hole in the pump? There should be no water coming out of the hole, right?
Mine is broken off about an inch above the front cover. I was just going to leave it.......