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01 expl-sport loud knocking in rear over bumps

They are identical, find the best condition parts. The front and rear are unique by themselves, the middle body mounts are all alike.
 



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I got the 2 rear mounts off today and all the drivers side ones are loose. I'll be headed back tomorrow to get the rest.

They are identical, find the best condition parts. The front and rear are unique by themselves, the middle body mounts are all alike.

CDW-how are the rear mounts unique? The ones on my '01 are the same as these. Oh and I took them off a 97, not a 96 like I said i was going too.
 






I mean that the rear two are unlike the middle group. It may just be the really long bolts, but I think there are three mount types on each truck. The front pair are the most sensitive to moisture seizing up the threads inside the mounts. The middle six I think last longer, but of course the climate it lives in affects them the most.

I used the 1999 body mounts instead of the 1993 mounts for my 99 rebuild(built one truck from two). I didn't see any difference between the 93 and 99 parts, they swap.
 






Oh okay, I noticed that too. Sorry, you kind of confused me a little there :confused:
 






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I got 8/10 mounts off a '97 4 door. They are all in great shape. I even had fun getting them off (the JY wouldn't let me bring a jack OR torch in with me so I had to improvise). 3/8 mounts spun while I was trying to loosen them, so I used the strap wrench pictured.

I left the front mounts because the bolts were seized in them, CDW sure enough you were correct with the front mounts. Luckily mine are a-okay.
 






That's great, and the strap wrench is becoming a valuable tool. Good work.

I was able to remove the mounts from my two trucks, except for one rear bolt(had to be torched off). The front bolts of each were rough though, the 93 really fought me. I bought two new bolts from Ford for those.

I'd love to change the mounts of my 98 too, but it came from Milwaukee, and who knows how bad they are.
 






Ya it was an experience getting them all with no jack. I removed all mount bolts then used the jack handle (which I oddly brought with me into the yard) to lift the body off the frame, then I stood a junk wheel up and rested the handle on the wheel. Ran around like a chicken with my head cut off to pull the top ones out and repeated for the other side. Fun fun :)

I'll take pictures when I get these ones on but i'm unsure as to when that will be.
 






Rplacing the Other 8 Bushings

Okay, looked at all the threads on this forum before I dove into replacing my rear bushings last night. BINGO, just like everyone said! I did it just like Josh C. posted and everything went smooth and I was done in just under 2 hours. That fixed the problem and no more banging noise. I used the Daystar kit and they fit perfect...

Now, I need to tackle the other 8 bushings. I'm looking for some suggestions from anyone who has done these other ones. It looks as though a porta power wedge is the best bet. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 






Okay, looked at all the threads on this forum before I dove into replacing my rear bushings last night. BINGO, just like everyone said! I did it just like Josh C. posted and everything went smooth and I was done in just under 2 hours. That fixed the problem and no more banging noise. I used the Daystar kit and they fit perfect...

Now, I need to tackle the other 8 bushings. I'm looking for some suggestions from anyone who has done these other ones. It looks as though a porta power wedge is the best bet. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated!

This thread tells you everything you need to know.
1. But in a nutshell, you should pull all bolts out from one side and loosen the other side 3/4 of the way, using heat if necessary. My front bumper valance got caught on my tow hooks and light bar and actually started lifting the entire vehicle up, so watch that.
2. Find a good lifting point and jack the body away from the frame, making sure you watch all ground straps and connections, especially around the transmission.
3. Then remove old pucks one at a time and install new ones.
4. Thread locker on bolts
5. Thread in the bolts a little bit then repeat for other side.
6. Torque all bolts
Good Luck!
 






This is excellent. I too have this problem. I'll read it more when I can. Excellent people.
 






Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a shot this week (or weekend) and will let everyone know how it came out. I'm still thinking about getting or renting a porta power wedge to spread the body from the frame. Any thoughts?
 






Will a floor jack work? I haven't read it all the way through yet. Just asking. Thanks.
 






Well, I got the forward rear trunk bushings out and replaced... I used a floor jack and a 2x4 to lift up the body, but I still had to use a large pry bar and a 2x2 to pry up the body another inch to get the top bushing out. I had to go in from the side by the rear tire. The Daystar bushing is not the same and I called their tech support and they said it will work.
Now on to the middle floor bushing behind the passenger side. That one was easy, but the other side was a real PIA!!!! My impact wrench would not even break the bolt loose but after an hour, a beer, and some serious cussing, it came out. I just can't seem to get the top bushing out. The body and frame need to be separated another 1/4" and after using the floor jack and the large pry bar, still no go. I gave up this evening when the pry bar slipped and the end caught me in the right eye.... Looks like I'll have a black eye for the next few days... Ouch! Try again tomorrow.
 






I got the rest of the bushings out and replaced except for the 2 front. The left front bolt will not come out and it's frozen inside the top bushing!!! Those were supposed to be the easy ones...

Here is a note if using the Daystar Kit:

There are 4 smaller reducer bushings (M02542) that come with the kit and the instructions do not tell you where they go. I called Technical Support and they could not tell me either. I found out after reading another post that they are for the two front bushings in the rear cargo area (M02544) and the two bushings in front of the front seats (M02541) They are used to reduce the hole size in the mount. I was confused and not certain where they went because they don't fit like the OEM bushing and are smaller than the hole, but they still work. This totally fixed my problem and it handles great!
 






I've got to read this whole thing when I get time. That Daystar Kit link is for Nissan Titan. LOL.
 






Got a birthday reminder that I havent been active for a while and took a look at this old thread.

This is awesome. I had no idea when I wrote this up how many other people would have the exact same, if not similar, problem. Makes me happy to see its helped others too. I recently had to do the 4 front mounts. Wasn't too bad other than breaking a bolt while tightening them.

I was about to remove the repair photos from my server but realized how many people this has helped and will continue to host them.

Cheers!
 






Okay, after driving around for 3 months with the front left bushing lose because I could not get the bolt removed as it was frozen in the top bushing, I had them taken out and replaced the bushings. I had to finally take it to a shop and they took about 4 hours getting them out with a torch! Now I've noticed the right bushing by the passinger front seat floor ratteling even when I torqued the hell out of it. It's that Daystar reducer bushing that is ratteling. May have to take that one out again and see whats going on. What a PIA!!
 






I got the rest of the bushings out and replaced except for the 2 front. The left front bolt will not come out and it's frozen inside the top bushing!!! Those were supposed to be the easy ones...

Here is a note if using the Daystar Kit:

There are 4 smaller reducer bushings (M02542) that come with the kit and the instructions do not tell you where they go. I called Technical Support and they could not tell me either. I found out after reading another post that they are for the two front bushings in the rear cargo area (M02544) and the two bushings in front of the front seats (M02541) They are used to reduce the hole size in the mount. I was confused and not certain where they went because they don't fit like the OEM bushing and are smaller than the hole, but they still work. This totally fixed my problem and it handles great!

How do you get the rear bushings to come out? I got the bolts out but cant seperate the piece that holds the upper and lower part? Is this a pressed sleeve or does it need to be heated up?
 






How do you get the rear bushings to come out? I got the bolts out but cant seperate the piece that holds the upper and lower part? Is this a pressed sleeve or does it need to be heated up?
Thread the bolt from inside the cab 1/2" into the bottom sleeve and take aim with a BFH. To get a precise hit
and to prevent damaging the bolt head, use a short 1/2" drive extension and a standard length 18mm socket.

The bolts from the factory have an excessive amount of blue thread lock compound. Heat them from the bottom with a propane torch about 30 seconds, or until the Loctite softens. Although not required, a strong 1/2" impact wrench with extension will make this task much easier. Wire brush old blue thread lock compound from the bolts and reinstall the bolts clean. Add Loctite AFTER driving 500 miles or more to re-torque to the FACTORY specs as noted in the Daystar instructions linked below. (All mounts 59 ft/lbs. except front radiator support mounts @ 41 ft/lbs.)

http://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Daystar/P10307-02.pdf
 



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Are you replacing all the bushings or just the rear? Like swshawaii said, just put the bolts in from the top and thread them in a few turns then hit it the bolts with a BFH and the bushings will come out. You will have to spread the frame from the body to pull them out.
 






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