02 4.0L 5-speed... set cam timing and

[DeCaff2007]

.... still runs like SH*t.

I little history here. First off this is an 02 Ranger. Same animal.

A check engine light led to checking all the vacuum hoses, led to checking the intake manifold gasket, which ultimately lead to replacing the driver side head.

Well we all know this meant setting the timing.... on BOTH heads.

So I buy the **RIDICULOUSLY** overpriced timing tool kit. (and, I just want to add, the tool to hold the cam in place BROKE on the first use and I had to weld it back together). Instructions came with it but they were mediocre at best. I used the documentation both on this site and a manual that a member here sent me.

I followed all instructions to the absolute letter. 6 hours later I turn the key and well something obviously wasn't right. Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power.

Ok both cranks must be 180* out. I tear back into it a few days later and spin both cranks 180 degrees, put everything back together. Same sh*t. Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power.

Now I'm baffled. Has fuel, has spark, and passes a compression test.

Took it for a test drive and well the power brakes are gone, too. Lack of vacuum because the timing still cannot be correct.

Alright here we go: Third attempt, however, this attempt was at my pseudo father in law's shop (mechanic of 35 years) Took the valve covers off and both heads have milkshakes He says not to worry and we proceed to closely examine EVERYTHING. All we can figure is that the passenger side is still 180 out (although I don't see how).

Spun it 180*, reassembled, Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power, and this time, rattle rattle rattle.. WWWWWTTTTFFFFFFF is wrong with this thing?????????

There's really only ONE way to use the timing took kit. It's pretty stupid proof once you know what to do. I'm about at wits end with this truck and very close to just selling and buying a damned Chevy.

If anyone actually reads this and has ANY idea what could possibly be wrong..... please chime in.

 

[2000StreetRod]

180 degrees out

. . . So I buy the **RIDICULOUSLY** overpriced timing tool kit. (and, I just want to add, the tool to hold the cam in place BROKE on the first use and I had to weld it back together). Instructions came with it but they were mediocre at best. I used the documentation both on this site and a manual that a member here sent me.

The instructions with the timing kit are for installing the tools. I agree that they are not very detailed. They don't include timing instructions. If the camshaft holding tool is installed with the timing slot above the axis of the camshaft instead of below the axis (correct orientation shown below) the holder may break.

I followed all instructions to the absolute letter. 6 hours later I turn the key and well something obviously wasn't right. Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power. Ok both cranks must be 180* out. I tear back into it a few days later and spin both cranks 180 degrees, put everything back together. Same sh*t. Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power.

If you spin both camshafts the same amount nothing associated with the timing will change. If one camshaft was 180 degrees out from the other and you spun both 180 degrees then the camshafts were still 180 degrees out. The left camshaft timing nub (blue arrow in above photo) notifies the PCM via the camshaft position sensor when the camshaft is on the compression stroke for cylinder #1 . If the camshafts are 180 degrees out with each other then the injectors will fire at the wrong time.

Now I'm baffled. Has fuel, has spark, and passes a compression test.

Took it for a test drive and well the power brakes are gone, too. Lack of vacuum because the timing still cannot be correct.

What was the compression for at least one cylinder on each bank? If the camshafts are timed incorrectly the compression will be low on all cylinders for at least one bank.

Alright here we go: Third attempt, however, this attempt was at my pseudo father in law's shop (mechanic of 35 years) Took the valve covers off and both heads have milkshakes He says not to worry and we proceed to closely examine EVERYTHING. All we can figure is that the passenger side is still 180 out (although I don't see how).

Spun it 180*, reassembled, Crank crank crank crank crank crank .... and BARELY starts and NO power, and this time, rattle rattle rattle.. WWWWWTTTTFFFFFFF is wrong with this thing?????????

There's really only ONE way to use the timing took kit. It's pretty stupid proof once you know what to do. I'm about at wits end with this truck and very close to just selling and buying a damned Chevy.

If anyone actually reads this and has any idea what could possibly be wrong..... please chime in.

The timing tool kit has been installed incorrectly by experienced mechanics not familiar with the Ford SOHC V6 and the tool kit. Was the replacement head tested for cracks before installation? Did the engine overheat when you went for the test drive? If so, did you prefill the block with coolant up to the thermostat before starting the engine? Milky oil is a possible sign of coolant in the oil.

I suggest another complete compression test with examination of spark plugs for abnormal signs. If the compression on all cylinders is around 180 psi or above then look for disconnected or broken vacuum hoses. The engine will often sound like valve clatter after a rebuild unless the hydraulic cam followers are prefilled with oil. It takes about 30 minutes of driving at engine mid-range. I advise against running the engine or driving the vehicle at all until you have compression test results.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Well, right now I can do nothing. I'll be away at work for awhile starting Monday.

You mention plugs. BEFORE I tore everything apart yesterday (and assumed both cams were correct), the plugs on the passenger side were black. Drivers side white. Grrr.

Now, if I had full time access to the resources that I had yesterday, I'd yank the whole damned engine and replace the timing chains. Well, that's not the case.

Oh btw I'm doing all this with ZERO money, so that's another hindrance.

Part of me wants to just buy a known good running 4.0 with low miles and swap that in. Might be less hassle than playing the "what the FFFF is wrong with this?" game.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Bahhhhh HUMBUG!

Took another look and well my mechanic ran a few tests. He is convinced that the valves are bent (would definitely explain loss of vacuum).

The heads are coming off and sent to a machine shop for a full inspection.

Gotta wait until I'm back home, though....

 

[DeCaff2007]

Alright guys I know it's been some time, but I'm back from work and finally got my engine torn out, new heads, gaskets, and timing chains (with guides).

I made 400% sure that the timing was set correctly. Threw everything back together turned the key.

Well, LOL... Not much has changed. Starts, barely, after cranking about 40 or 50 times. Then runs VERY rough and and has NO power.

I checked the firing order about 200 times. All is well there. Although I only checked the spark on cylinder #5 , it seemed ok. It was toooo damned cold, windy, and late in the day to go tearing into things and attempt a compression test.

Oh btw I can now smell fuel in the cab but I checked the fuel rail and it's BONE dry. No leaks at all. None under the truck, nor near the fuel tank.

I'm at wits end with this truck and really wish I could afford another one (Silverado anyone?)

 

[kolb]

By "bone dry" on the fuel rails, do you mean on the outside? Have you checked fuel pressure on the rail? There is a Schrader valve where you can bleed air and check the fuel pressure on it. It need 3 things to run - fuel, spark, and timing. The first two are pretty easy to check. When you think you have looked at everything, go back to basics and confirm you have fuel and spark. Good luck!!!

 

[kolb]

Deleted (duplicate post)

 

[DeCaff2007]

FIXED! Turns out in my hurried state, I screwed up the firing order. I swapped out the wires on cylinders 5 and 6 and the ####er fired right up

Now that I have that solved, just have a power steering hose to replace and I should be back on the road!

 

[kolb]

Glad to hear you got it fixed

 

[boominXplorer]

Nothing like a whole top end rebuild just because of some miss-matched plug wires. Glad you figured it out though.