02 Explorer transfer case - do I really need to spend $2500?

[myrrh]

I have a 2002 Explorer 4x4 that failed to move when put into gear. I had it towed to my mechanic and they say the transfer case needs replacing at a cost of $2500. This is the 4x4 that has the 4x4 HI, 4x4 LO, and AUTO buttons on the dash.

Here is the background: I was loading the vehicle for a weekend trip. Every time I put something in the vehicle, I heard a clicking (like a relay) under the passenger side dash. When I started the engine, I noticed the speedometer went up to 25 and put it into drive, the vehicle did not move. No movement in reverse. I put it back into park and there was the sound of gears grinding (parking pawl?).

Before I spend $2500, I want to know from you all the likelihood that the culprit is indeed the transfer case. I question that diagnosis based on three things:

1) The vehicle has only 50,000 miles, has not been off road, has not been treated roughly, and has done only a small amount of towing.

2) Everything was fine the night before when I backed it into my driveway and everything was not fine the next morning. It seems to me that the failure of a drivetrain part would likely happen under load, not just sitting overnight.

3) The clicking I heard under the dash had not happened ever before and then happens at exactly the same time as the vehicle refuses to move indicating that the issue could be in the control module.

(Note: my mechanic told me that the 4x4 buttons on the dash are wired directly to solenoids in the transfer case - that doesn't sound right - is that really the way it is?)

Could the fix actually be something other than having to replace the transfer case for $2500?

 

[section525]

DO NOT SPEND $2500 to fix this. Get a 2nd opinion before doing anything.

There is a sticky somewhere about trouble shooting the shift motor. I'd do that first thing.

 

[94EddieBauerRock]

My Grandpa has a 2002 Eddie Bauer. He is on his 3rd transfer case and your problems are VERY similar to what he had. He didn't have the clicking relay as far as I know, but when he put the Explorer in reverse he heard a grinding, then a clunk and no movement.

I would encourage you to get a second opinion, but what you describe sounds exactly like what happened to him and it was definitely his transfer case (he paid around $2200).

Edit: His was also fine when he put it in the garage and when he came back out the next morning, nothing and had about 60,000 miles on it when this happened.

 

[gmanpaint]

$2500 is only if you want brand new parts. Still a little high priced since it is only a few hours of labor involved. New can be had for around $1200-$1400.

Used is way cheaper. The link below is just an example of how low you can go if needed. There are other re-built models that look brand new and have a long warranty for around $700 found on Ebay as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPOR...fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#vi-content

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002...fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#vi-content

 

[myrrh]

There is a sticky somewhere about trouble shooting the shift motor.

Are you referring to the thread "4x4 Shift Motor Rebuild?" http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542

 

[IZwack]

- the transfer case is in Neutral. One way to "reset" the system, as we've found over the years, is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, turn the knob back to AUTO, and reconnect the battery.

- the grinding sound you heard was the transmission being forced into Park when a portion of the drivetrain still had angular momentum (was rotating). Next time it happens, putting the vehicle in park wont do anything to stop the vehicle from rolling because the transfer case is in Neutral and therefore the axles are mechanically disconnected to the transmission and the engine. However, if it does happens again, the proper shutdown procedure is to shut the engine off first, wait half a minute for the drivetrain to stop moving, and then put the transmission in Neutral.

 

[myrrh]

Is it possible that there is nothing wrong with the transfer case itself (i.e. it is in "neutral") if:

1) the input to the transfer case can be rotated by hand and the outputs do not rotate?

and under the same condition

2) rotating one output by hand the other output rotates?

Also, does anyone know of a diagram online that shows the inner workings of a 2002 Explorer transfer case so I am better able to understand how it works?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Hey myrrh,

I believe that I have the same t-case as you in my 99. It should be the BW4405 "Control Trac" unit. There is quite a bit more involved electronics wise. The dash switch is not connected directly to the t-case as you were told. The case is controlled by the GEM, the 4x4 module, and the 4x4 shift relay, which is probably what you heard clicking. There is a wealth of info on http://www.alldatadiy.com/ . Its only $20 a year and you have access to all of the same info that the service techs at the dealerships have. i just recently subscribed and believe me it is well worth it. If you do go the route of a "new-used" t-case I just saw one at my local yard for under $100. You would have to check on the cross reference of the years, the one I saw was from a 2000. Like I said I have a subscription to alldata so if you want me to look something up I'd be happy to. Also if the t-case is in neutral I don't think both outputs should turn. I have a spare case I'll check it and let you know. Good luck.

Al

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Never mind, I was incorrect. When the case is in neutral both output shafts do turn. I did some research, and depending on what point in the production run your ex was built it may be a BW4411. Apparently Ford switched from the 4405 to the 4411 in 2002 but did so mid year in production. You'll need to check out the metal tag on the case by the output shaft that will tell you for sure. There should also be a big white label on the case as well with the case type on it.

Al