03 transfer case woes HELP

[yeroc281]

I just stumbled onto this site and need help.

I currently own a 2003 XLT 4.6l with 81k miles. I just blew $800 on new BFG rugged trails and new pads all the way around and new rotors on the rear. I get the suv home and now have transfer case problems.

Here's what it does.

Drive it up to a min of 30mph let off the gas and I hear a whine (wah wah wha) Put it neutral, same thing. It continues at whatever speed as long as its over 30mph. But only when I let off and coast.

So I changed the fluid in the transfer case , praying that that's all it was but unfortunately it continues.

Then I get home jack it up AGAIN and disconect the big black plug on the transfer case and WA-LA no more whine. I was just trying to eliminate the problem and I think I found it.

History of the vehicle:
I bought it with 10k
At 25k took it to a certain Ford dealer for warrenty work on the "What I thought was something in the rear end. But they said no they replaced the transfer case. I get it home and its doing the same thing with the rear end( felt like the rear brakes were binding up) So I call the largest dealer in Ohio and the said it was the clutch paks in the rear end!!! I thought I was right and I was. So I take it to Ricart Ford and they said the"other" dealer should have seen the tsb and should not have replaced a perfectly fine transfer case.
It now has 81k and needs transfer case work.


How much is it going to cost me to fix it or should I just go trade it on a supercrew F150?
I just looked over one of the tear down posts and don't really have that kind of time to rebuild it myself. So what kind of figure am I looking at??


Sorry this post was sooooo loooong!!!:exp:

Any ideas?????

 

[IZwack]

Kind of doesnt sound like a transfer case problem, sounds like a differential problem (when the pinion and ring gear are contacting on the "coast" side of the teeth). Check for loose pinion bearings.

 

[yeroc281]

Even though the sound went away after I disconnected the big black plug to make the transfer case inoperable? I think if it was the diff I'd still hear it wouldn't I????? What about the shift motor? It seems like it might not be shifting out of 4weel high?

 

[IZwack]

Even though the sound went away after I disconnected the big black plug to make the transfer case inoperable? I think if it was the diff I'd still hear it wouldn't I?????

Ah thats true, sorry I must have missed that part of your post.

Well if you're looking to replace the transfer case, I suggest you start calling a few shops locally, or checking E-bay, or calling Omega Machine.

 

[yeroc281]

Bump

 

[IZwack]

Can you verify which transfer case you have?

There is typically a sticker on the body of these transfer cases, there is also a metal tab on one of the bolts. It will say something like 44-10, 44-11, and so on.

Or better yet, is there a switch on the dash that allows you to select 4wd (4HI or 4LO)?

The reason I ask is because, I believe the v8 third generation Explorer (4.6L engine) came with the 44-10 which is an All-Wheel Drive transfer case -- which means the vehicle should not have a 4wd selector switch. Now if this is true, then disconnecting that electrical connector should not have influenced the transfer case because the transfer case's operations is not electrically controlled. Instead, this transfer case relies on a very viscous fluid which increases in viscosity based on the friction generated when the front and rear driveshafts are spinning at different speeds.

On the other hand, if the vehicle does have a 4wd selector switch, then you have the 44-11 transfer case and disconnecting the electrical connector disabled the transfer case from engaging 4wd -- which makes sense. This could mean that, with the electrical connectors together, the 4wd is engaging when its not supposed to for some reason (bad speed sensor, fault electricals, etc...)

Another test you can do which would tell us whether or not it is indeed the transfer case is, if you have the time, remove the front driveshaft from the vehicle but keep the transfer case's electrical connectors connected. Right after you disconnect the driveshaft from the front axle's yoke, move this yoke up and down or side to side to check for any "play", then go take the vehicle for a spin and see if the sound is still present. If the front axle's yoke moves up and down or side to side, then the pinion bearing is loose. Also, if the sound goes away when the vehicle is test driven without the front driveshaft but you didn't feel any play from the front axle's yoke, then there is something wrong with the front axle (pinion bearing is loose, or another bearing is loose). My theory behind this is that with the front driveshaft on the vehicle, when you take your foot off of the gas, the front axle's ring and pinion gear meshes on the "coast" side. And if these two gears are either loose or are not meshing properly, they will produce a "whining" sound, and maybe even a rattling/crackling sound if the bearings are loose enough.

I should also note that if you have the AWD transfer case (no in-dash 4wd selector) and remove the front driveshaft, use the E-brake/parking-brake and park the vehicle on flat, level ground because the vehicle will slowly creep forward/backwards without the front driveshaft even with the transmission in Park (by nature of the transfer case's viscous coupling design).

 

[yeroc281]

Its a 44-11 I just crawled under it. I won't be able to perform the front drive shaft checks until the weekend. The dash has a 4low 4high and 4auto button on it. We've always had it in 4auto. Also do you know if the light is supposed to stay on or flash when I select 4 low? It flashes in 4low, I'm not sure if it knows what to do if its flashing. Just a guess. I might be wrong. Thanks for the help. I also have had a abs light on the dash for about 20k miles but I figured it was a wheel sensor but hasn't affected the 4wd that I've noticed. Its always worked in the winter when needed.

 

[IZwack]

Its a 44-11 I just crawled under it. I won't be able to perform the front drive shaft checks until the weekend. The dash has a 4low 4high and 4auto button on it. We've always had it in 4auto. Also do you know if the light is supposed to stay on or flash when I select 4 low? It flashes in 4low, I'm not sure if it knows what to do if its flashing. Just a guess. I might be wrong. Thanks for the help. I also have had a abs light on the dash for about 20k miles but I figured it was a wheel sensor but hasn't affected the 4wd that I've noticed. Its always worked in the winter when needed.

Wow -- I was not aware the selectable 4wd (4HI/4LO) was available in the 4.6L V8 engine.

When the light is flashing, it means there is something wrong with the transfer case, or you disconnected its electrical connectors and the vehicle pretty much thinks the transfer case is missing.

By the way, you can engage the vehicle from Auto to 4HI at any time (even while in motion) but in order to go in or out of 4LO, the vehicle must be stopped, the transmission in Neutral, and foot on the brake pedal (to ensure the vehicle does not move while in Neutral).

Knowing that you have the 44-11, then you're correct, chances are, its the transfer case but the driveshaft test still should be done. More often than not, the bearing seats in these Borg Warner transfer cases elongiate loosening the bearings, which can cause a whining sound. BTW, you can do the same up-down/side-side check for play on the transfer case's output flanges. Do note that a few millimeters of in-out play on these flanges is normal, but up-down or side-side is not.

 

[cleudard01]

rebuilt transfer cases

I think I found something good.....Reman transfer case for my 97 from Transfer Case Express $695+$85 round trip shipping. Shopped around & most were over a grand! WOOHOO...I think I got a deal!