04 Explore Upper and Lower ball joints

[Fahrenheit]

Taking on upper and lower ball joints job for a family member. Seems like not to bad of a job from my research. Do have some questions though. What size is the axle nut? I got an electric impact I wanna use to spin them off and I never seem to have the right size socket for axle nuts, figure I can put it in my amazon cart with the parts. As far as the job itself, the only bolts you gotta tighten with weight on the wheel are the upper control arm bushings right? Rest I can just TQ with it in the air, right? Anyone got the TQ specs handy for this job? I'm big on TQ specs. Last thing, I'm planning on taking the knuckle completely free, as in take off the ABS harness and caliper off the knuckle just so when I press the lower ball joint in and out I don't gotta fight around the knuckle. Is that a stupid idea or not? Also speaking of presses, is the autozone rental enough to get the job done or should I buy a better press then they rent?

Thanks y'all

 

[ROBinGa]

There are a few good YouTube videos on the topic of UCA replacement. 1AAuto.com always have helpful ones and go over nut sizes and torque specs. The axle nut on my 2003 XLT 4x4 is 30mm but they may vary from year to year and options of 4x4 type.

 

[swshawaii]

2004 Explorer/Mountaineer
https://www.scribd.com/doc/277562598/Suspension-System-Specifications

 

[Fahrenheit]

There are a few good YouTube videos on the topic of UCA replacement. 1AAuto.com always have helpful ones and go over nut sizes and torque specs. The axle nut on my 2003 XLT 4x4 is 30mm but they may vary from year to year and options of 4x4 type.

Thanks, tossed a cheapo 30mm socket in my amazon cart.

2004 Explorer/Mountaineer
https://www.scribd.com/doc/277562598/Suspension-System-Specifications

Thanks, just what I wanted.

 

[imp]

I did my 2004. Seemed everyone felt the uppers could be hammered in and out. I removed the entire upper arm, used a set-up of 3/4" drive sockets in my axle press to do the squeezin'. No way a hammer-job would have worked! Your method sounded OK.

Just my 2 cents. imp

 

[Fahrenheit]

I did my 2004. Seemed everyone felt the uppers could be hammered in and out. I removed the entire upper arm, used a set-up of 3/4" drive sockets in my axle press to do the squeezin'. No way a hammer-job would have worked! Your method sounded OK.

Just my 2 cents. imp

Do you mean lowers? The upper im doing the whole arm, lower is the press in ball joint. Gonna get the advanced kit, how does them rentals work anyways? I normally get parts on amazon and not advanced, will they rent then to me for free?

 

[imp]

Do you mean lowers? The upper im doing the whole arm, lower is the press in ball joint. Gonna get the advanced kit, how does them rentals work anyways? I normally get parts on amazon and not advanced, will they rent then to me for free?

I meant the upper ball joints only, which both had torn seals. The control arm bushings were OK. The uppers are press-fitted into the control arm, very tightly, with no retainment means other than the press fit. Not to my liking, really.

Only problem with going the replace whole arm with new ball route, is that manufacturing tolerances may leave a need for wheel alignment, which I aimed to avoid.

Your other questions I am sorry I cannot answer with any certainty. imp

 

[swshawaii]

Camber kits needed when replacing upper control arms?

Installing Camber/Caster Adjuster Kits
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373576&highlight=camber+kits

 

[xlt03]

http:// http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249135
As to "tool rental" from Advanced, O'Reillys, Autozone, it is a credit card deposit for the full amount of the tool which is refunded upon the return of the tool provided it is returned by the number of days allowed. Autozone for example allows a specified number of days and if you exceed the days you essentially purchased the tool.
Look at the above link and read thru it. You need 2 kits for the upper ball joints.

 

[Fahrenheit]

http:// http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249135
As to "tool rental" from Advanced, O'Reillys, Autozone, it is a credit card deposit for the full amount of the tool which is refunded upon the return of the tool provided it is returned by the number of days allowed. Autozone for example allows a specified number of days and if you exceed the days you essentially purchased the tool.
Look at the above link and read thru it. You need 2 kits for the upper ball joints.

I was just gonna replace the whole upper arm, do you think replacing the uppers in the OEM arm is better?

 

[ROBinGa]

Once you loosen the two side bushings on the UCA you are removing enough so it will pivot you can take it out in seconds, put new one back in in seconds and this will be a snap. I really do suggest loosening the two side bushings for easier removal and install. The new part for complete UCA that come with ball joint installed are very economical now so I would vote for total UCA part swap.

 

[drdoom]

That's a good tip, Rob, as that will replace the bushings at the same time.
Doc

 

[Fahrenheit]

This is what I got done today. Both lower ball joins pressed in. Got about 5 hours into it so far. Good thing i'm not a flat rate tech haha. Fumbled around with the rented ball joint press for way to long till I got it figured out. But besides that, no real issues. I did lube up the outside of the balljoint before pressing it in. Not sure if that's recommended or not.

Do have 1 question, what way should I point the zerk fittings when I install them? I got the 90 degree angle ones. I'm thinking point back towards the rear wheels. What do you all think?

 

[Fahrenheit]

Just finished up the last of the work. I did not loosen the control arm bushing bolts. What I did was slip the knuckle back on the lower ball joint, tightened it up, then placed a jack under the lower control arm and jacked it up. Had just enough of the upper ball joint to get the castle nut going. If I had to do the job again i'd do it the same way.

Also, with moog control arms and reusing the shims the camber was 100% in spec. So I didn't need an alignment.