06 Explorer 4.6 3V,need tap specs for spark plug

[JohnnyEx]

Thamks again. I'm gonna try to sleep but will be back at it again in the morning. About that longer 9/16 bit, I've checked everywhere in town - all the auto parts, box stores, harbor freight. Most can order it but no one stocks it. Been trying for a couple days on that. Only place I didn't check was sears but they're store stock isn't what it used to be. Gonna check tomorrow regardless

 

[Explorer_PL]

I was lucky since my friend who was a mechanic came with a specific drill bit in his tool kit since he has done few of the Explorers with the same issue, so there was no guessing.
If I were to do it again by myslef, I'd get the Dorman insert first, go to ACE or Home Depot and use their thread gauge checker to find out what size it is, and then use the 80% rule to get the right size drill bit. I know the insert uses 17mm socket, and it needs to be 3/8 drive since 1/2 is too big and will not fit in the spark well.
Good luck.

 

[boominXplorer]

The reason that yellow coil looks different is because it's for a 2v instead of a 3v. The Dorman Insert only works on 2v engines. If you can't get that peice out with an easy out then you'll have to remove the head unfortunately.

 

[Explorer_PL]

We know it's for 2v triton, but I used it on my 3v and clocked 100k miles with it with no misfires. It's just a work around to save pulling the head off..

PS:Correction to my post above - I would drill it to more than 80% of the insert size.

 

[boominXplorer]

I don't see how the spark plug tip will make it into the cylinder with the adapter unless it's in there recessed. I'm not doubting you got it in there, just math doesn't add up.

 

[boominXplorer]

It's also going to be very hard to seal the threads to compression since the sealing seat is pretty jacked. I'd keep trying to get that peice out and put an original plug back in. It's also one thing to use a helicoil or insert if you've done a few before but my first two helicoils I did as a novice shot out on my first ride around the block.

 

[JohnnyEx]

I watched that second Dorman video. In the video, the plug that comes with the Dormam kit is the 3valve plug; I guess the 2valve plugs are closer in size to a "standard" size plug. Glad it worked for you Explorer PL, does seem odd though having the new plug with the insert recessed so far up inside the plug shaft. Late start today but gonna go hit it again. You know what's an odd sort of contradiction is that it's definitely better for me when I think positive but if/when I put voice to a positive outcome it's almost always a jynx. Sorry I digress. Back to the grind

 

[JohnnyEx]

boomin - I may go with the helicoil yet but definitely want to see if I can complete the current task. Did you figure out why your first helicoil shot out? In case I have to go that route...

 

[Explorer_PL]

I know it makes no sense, i had same doubts.
The tip of the spark plug is 1 inch recessed into the head but I guess during the compression stroke the fumes still get ignited. And the insert seals the head very well.
Like I said, I clocked another 100k miles with no compression or misfire issues, and that repair survived heavy towing and plowing - that's just my side of the story. I find helicoils much more complicated, the dorman insert is no brainer.

The color of aftermarket coils does not really mean anything. I had accell yellow coils for 3v engines, and I think they use yellow or red for their product regardless of the application, so you can have similar looking coils in yellow for 2, 3 or 4v engines.

 

[JohnnyEx]

The last piece at the bottom of the larger diameter metal section of the old plug came out after using the tap (pictured). The new plug has threaded all the way in - at least I'm trying to verify that now. If it's not all the way in, it's only by one revolution or less. I've pulled the adjacent plug to visually compare the two sets of threads. It appears as though, after tapping, a low part of the thread wall is missing.

Not sure why, but I'm hesitant to put those two plugs in, put everything back together, and fire it up. Probably hesitant because each accomplishment has beem followed by a setback in the last 10 days. Where's my tissues...

Anyway, two things: 1) printed on the autolite ht1 box, it says, quote " The new plugs should be installed with no anti-seize lubricant on the threads", the box also says to coat the ground sheild and motor seat with a thin coat of anti-seize. 2) I've only begun to research the helicoil issue - trying to cover my bases in case the plug in the hole I just tapped blows out. Any thoughts on the no-anti-seize-on-the-threads from autolite, and also is anyone familar with the helicoil set or kit specific to the 3valve, in case the new plug blows out? As always, thanks again

 

[JohnnyEx]

It's also going to be very hard to seal the threads to compression since the sealing seat is pretty jacked. I'd keep trying to get that peice out and put an original plug back in. It's also one thing to use a helicoil or insert if you've done a few before but my first two helicoils I did as a novice shot out on my first ride around the block.

Did you find out why the first helicoil blew out? Also, do you remember or can you recommend a helicoil set or kit - in case the plug in the hole I just tapped blows out.

 

[JohnnyEx]

One more thing about the anti-seize issue: in the 2nd Dorman video I watched, it appeared to be a professional mechanic in the video, and he made it a point (or so it seems) to hold the plug up to the camera, right before installing it, and say "and don't forget to put anti-sieze on the threads" as he coated the threads with anti-sieze

 

[JohnnyEx]

I know it makes no sense, i had same doubts.
The tip of the spark plug is 1 inch recessed into the head but I guess during the compression stroke the fumes still get ignited. And the insert seals the head very well.
Like I said, I clocked another 100k miles with no compression or misfire issues, and that repair survived heavy towing and plowing - that's just my side of the story. I find helicoils much more complicated, the dorman insert is no brainer.

The color of aftermarket coils does not really mean anything. I had accell yellow coils for 3v engines, and I think they use yellow or red for their product regardless of the application, so you can have similar looking coils in yellow for 2, 3 or 4v engines.

I read your stats from your previous post - don't doubt them at all, and, especially after this past 10 days, am happy for you that it worked. As I mentioned below, I've only begun to research the helicoil issue (in case mine blows out). So far, the only helicoil kit I've found specific to the 3valve is from autozone at almost $400. If I have a blowout, I may go with the Dorman kit yet, if I can't find a much cheaper 3valve set or kit.

 

[boominXplorer]

As soon as I past $100 in expenses screwing with that one hole I would be strongly considering a head swap.

The helicoils I had that failed didn't have a good enough bite. I've done some since and even recently a chevy 5.3 plug hole with perfect success.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Johnny -
at this point I do not think you have a choice, you've gone so far.
Put the coil back on it but don't screw that 7mm bolt and fire it up. If it's going to blow, then at least you save the coil.
No other way to test your fix.
If it blows, then regroup and pick your next repair method.
Good luck

 

[JohnnyEx]

Afte my last post, I screwed the new spark plug in, put my torque wrench on it to tighten, went about 1 full revolution and stripped. I found a used ATD5410 online in very good shape for $122, litterally just arrived. While waiting for delivery these last few days, I've watched several videos about installation with this tool kit. It's supposed to be just about the same as the CAL39300. Got my JB Weld for the insert, gonna drill, tap, JB Weld in the insert, let it set up and hopefully fire this thing up tomorrow.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Following your saga, hope all went well. Keep us posted with progress and pictures
Good luck