'06 LTD Rattle from rear end

[jseabolt]

I know this sounds dumb but I have not had a chance to investigate this.

There is a rattle (well sort of) coming from the rear of my Explorer when I hit a bump. It's not really a rattle but more like something loose that radiates through the body. When I hit a bump, the sound starts then doesn't go away for about 2 to 3 seconds.

It sounds like the spare tire bouncing against the body. When I pushed up on it, it doesn't feel loose.

I've been meaning to remove it and drive around to see if the noise goes away.

Anything else known to cause a noise like this from the rear end I can check while I'm underneath it?

 

[Davidm53]

Check the Plastic stops on the rear hatch, they get dry and will make a rattle over the bumps. White grease the stops and the small springs inside them.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Rear sway bar links. I just had to replace mine.

 

[jseabolt]

Thanks guys I will check these out!

 

[jseabolt]

Well I found the problem.

Here is the replacement part I got from Advance Auto:

From what I gather, the bolt broke. I can feel the head of a bolt on the bottom side. Question: Does the thread coupler that came with the new link setup replace the hourglass thing on the axle? Or is this piece attached to the axle and the threaded coupler goes up through it?

I'm not sure what's holding this hour glass shaped piece to the axle. Perhaps what's left of the bolt itself?

So once I remove what's left of the bolt, I assume the hourglass piece falls off and I use the thread coupler that came with the new link setup? Or what?

 

[thebrakeman]

I replaced all 4 of my endlinks last year with those polyurethane Moogs, as 3 of mine were broken. Yes, the hourglass thing (called a "spacer") gets thrown in the trash. The new hexagonal spacer that came with the Moog kit is it's replacement.

PS - Both of my front Moogs have already broken, and I am blaming the poor installation instructions, which came with no install torque or other precise method of installation. I think I overtightened the parts. This probably puts the bolts into bending-loading, rather than allow the swaybar end to slide between the bushings.

I have already received the replacement parts from RockAuto (limited lifetime warranty from Moog/Federal-Mogul). I also called Moog/FM technical service, and have the following installation instructions:

1. Assemble with the vehicle on level ground, or on ramps, so that the 2 wheels are level with each other. This assures that the sway bar is not under load.
2. Assemble as instructed.
3. Tighten the nut until you can no longer spin that hexagonal spacer by hand. So the spacer is just barely touching/compressed by the 2 inner bushings.
4. Tighten the nut 2 more full revolutions. Done.

I'm just waiting for a break in this crazy cold to do the work, and send back the broken bits.

 

[jseabolt]

OK dumb question. I would probably know this if I actually crawled underneath the car to inspect but haven't had a chance to "suit up" due to all the melted snow and puddles of water in my garage. I was going to tackle this job today but was not in the mood.

The new parts I got from Advance Auto contains four bushings. I'm only seeing two bushings on the opposite side (that has not broken). Where do the other two bushings in this kit go?

There is what looks like a pipe cap below the hourglass shaped thing. Is that a bushing? Does the other bushing go underneath the axle and I just can't see it?

Or did the guy give me the parts the secure the swaybar to the body or frame that I cannot see?

I've installed my share of rear Addco swaybars (68 Fairlane, 98 Chevy van, 87 Yugo, 80 Fiat Spider) but have never seen a rear swaybar like this one. Usually there are two U-bolts that wrap around the axle and the links attach through the frame rails using a straight shaped U-bolt (for lack of a better term).

 

[jseabolt]

So this project turned into a 2 to 3 hour job. The bolt broke at the top of the swaybar but for some reason the bolt was seized up inside the plastic spacer. No amount of PB blaster or pounding on the broken bolt with a drift and large sledge hammer would phase it. So I had to get out the cutting disc.

Ordinarily when I need to separate rubber or plastic from metal I get out the propane torch and burn it off but in these case using a cutting disc near the brake hose and ABS wires was risky enough.

I had the new swaybar link installed in a matter of minutes. Even with the wheel off.

WTF?

I noticed these gouge marks in the wheel. I don't think they were caused by the loose swaybar. They look rather old. What could have caused this to happen?