06 xlt throwing codes...what do I do?

[dothedeww]

The truck suddenly started idling real bad and shaking while driving, like trying to stall out. I figured maybe bad tank of gas, stuck some dry gas in it, just made it worse if anything.

I ran it down to a quarter tank and refilled at a different station, same problem. After re-filling, thats when the truck started throwing the codes.

I did add some octance booster last tank(like +30 points) just for the slight engine knocking.

I checked all the plug wires, they seems to be in alright shape, except near the connectors that all go into the ignition, they are browned a litte (maybe burnt)

I have not pulled the plugs yet.

I read the codes this morning:

PO300 and PO300 p/d - Multiple/Random cylinder misfires
PO304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire


What should I try next?
The truck has 68000 on it and it was bought used, so Im not sure exactly what was done to it service wise before i bought it.

And also...is it safe for me to drive?

 

[dothedeww]

Update

I just pulled out one of the plugs (#4) and the gap was pretty good. The plug is obviously worn, but not worn enough to need instant replacement.

But one thing I noticed..the whole bottom half of the plug, from the ceramic down, including the bendover thing (the curved thing) is like a dark red color. Is that normal?

Thanks

Also, wires dont look too bad at all, just a little browning on the connectors, but otherwise looking fine.

 

[dothedeww]

Sorry for all the posts...but a quick thought.

After driving this thing hard, I always smell a sulfur smell...like rotten eggs. I always thought it was just something with my flowmaster...could this be the cat and be realted to the issue?

 

[dothedeww]

Any ideas?

 

[Gus Gorilla]

You need to check your entire ignition system. Pull your plugs and inspect them all. A good test for you to do would be a power balance. While the X is idling rough, start pulling off plugwires one at a time. When you pull a functional cylinder's wire you will hear the engine begin to miss. That indicates a functional cylinder/cylinder ignition. Re-connect the wire and move to the next. When you pull a wire off a cylinder and the sound or feel of the engine does not change you have found a disfunctional cylinder. Repair as necessary. At 68k you should not NEED new plugs or wires. But at the same time they wouldn't hurt. If your running down the road, although rough, you're most likely getting fuel and air, the only thing left is spark. That's all the essentials an engine needs to run. Fuel,Air,Spark. If you have good reason to suspect bad fuel then I would recommend some heet, not octane booster. Heet is for water in fuel which is most common due to lack of care of the filling station tanks.
When you find a solution to your problem be sure to post back here so we know how it went.

 

[dothedeww]

Ya. I threw some heet in there 2 days ago, enough for 20 gallons (3/4 tank). I turned off the engine light and went driving today, it didnt come back on but its definitly still running horrible.

Ill pull all the plugs this week and check them.

 

[dothedeww]

Alright...I just pulled the plugs. Ended up breaking one wire (metal came out of inside) so I need to get my new wires.

But before I put them all back in I had 2 questions.

Refer to the pix below:

1) The new plug is the one on the left. Does it matter thats its not the same exact size? Did they give me the wrong ones at the auto store? The ones they gave me were Bosch 4005.

2) The old plugs are sitting next to the new one. The ends of the old ones are a reddish purpleish color. The purple is shown more on the "hook" part of it. They also look burnt pretty bad. The truck has 68000 on it.

If anyone could answer these questions it would be great. Thanks!

 

[Gus Gorilla]

Well, That's an odd color, they kind of look pink. I'm a little lost as to what caused that. High speed glazing? Overheating? Somebody else please chime in here and help out with some solid info.
As for the length of the plug I would question that. Plugs are a specific length for a reason. Too long and it could hit the piston, too short and the electrodes don't protrude from the head enough. There's also the heat rating to consider. I checked online and both NAPA and O'Reilly list the Bosch 4005 as a replacement. Surely someone here has used these and can attest to how well they work.

 

[dothedeww]

alright, thanks for the help. The color really got me too...if anyone knows let me know please.

I just got these bosch plugs cuz they were on sale and I wanted to see if that improved my problem i was having with studdering. I will get some good ones later on. These bosch ones were 1.25 each at advance auto.

 

[dothedeww]

After reading a little more online...i think I may have found what caused all this. When it started sputtering I tried some octance booster....it was 104+ octance booster with a tank of 87. Then all the problems started getting exagerated.

Now after reading online...seems this 104+ octance booster causes the redding of the plugs and make the car sputter like crazy.

Ill put the plugs in tommrow and hopefully fix the problems.

 

[Tbars4]

...Just a thought...You might want to put Autolite platinums (or double Plats) in if you are not going with the Motorcraft plugs...Also, if you look at your pictures, the Bosch plugs will sit at a different depth than your original plugs...

...This might be of some help...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223210

 

[Henders]

It sounds like your Throttle body may be going bad. I just had mine replaced. I had a Mitsubishi where the throttle body went totally bad and the car seemed to run on just 2 cylinders.

 

[dothedeww]

I just did plugs/wires today....what a crazy way they wired 1, 2 ,and 3....had to take the alternator and airbox off to get to the wires since they turn at a 90 degree angle.

The problem went away....for now. Ill update if it comes back.

 

[dothedeww]

hey...what is the life expectancy on the stock plugs? 50k?