08 explorer air conditioner help

[relentless85]

I am in the process of rebuilding a 2008 Explorer that was wrecked in the front. The radiator needed to be replaced because the fan had eaten into the fins. The condenser was bent but it appeared that it was not cracked and the lines did not come disconnected from it. I was able to bend the condenser back and that allowed me to install a new radiator.

I started the engine and pressed the A/C button, the light came on but the compressor did not. I disconnected the pressure switch up by the passenger firewall and jumper the switch. Once the switch had a jumper, the compressor clutch engaged and began to operate.

My question is, how do I figure out of I need to replace the condenser? Can I fill the system with R134A and some dye to see if it leaks somewhere? Or will I completely screw the A/C system up if I do that. I know A/C systems are tricky and don't want to make un-necessary repairs.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I would suspect that the condenser is leaking. Connect a manifold pressure gauge set to the system. You probably have no freon in the system.

 

[relentless85]

If I connect a manifold and find that there is no pressure, how do I go
About finding the leak? I don't want to buy a new condenser and open up the system if it is not needed. Do I buy some dye and some R134a and try and re charge the system?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Connect a vacuum pump to the service port, then listen for the sound of air being drawn into the system.

 

[relentless85]

I ran some uv dye and some 134a through the system last weekend. I checked it today and it is leaking from the condenser around the bottom where it mounts to. It also appears that it is leaking the oil out too. When I put the dye and freon in last weekend I made sure to clean the bottom area of the condenser where I suspected the leak. Now that bottom area is wet and the uv dye appears there too.

So it appears that I need to replace the condenser. What other parts do I need to replace while I put a new consesner in?

 

[joecrna]

Replace the drier anytime you open the system, such as to replace the condenser.

 

[relentless85]

Ok, I just ordered a new condenser and a new A/C Accumulator/Drier. Next questions is the PAG oil. Do I need to put much in when I replace these parts? Do I just pour some in the new accumulator/drier and the condenser? Also, do i need a set of new o-rings to go on the new parts?

Thanks for your help!

 

[joecrna]

New O rings are cheep insurance, Id do those with the parts replaced. PAG oil, well anytime the system is opened you need to pump it down (draw a vaccum) and empty anything left in out. Most sources reccommend maintaining a vaccum for at least a few hours. Then the best way to replace it is to add the manufacturers recommended amount of 134a and PAG oil by weight. Both are introduced through the high pressure port. If this isn't practicle, you can use those cans from the parts store with oil already mixed in. Refill will be based on pressures (high and low).

The pump down is critical to remove all moisture (even the humidity in the air) that enters the system anytime it is opened. Never remove the drier/accumulater caps until you are ready to install it. This should be the last step in repairing the system. Then draw a vaccum on the system as soon as possible. Even small amounts of moisture in the AC system will lead to internal corrosion and failure. Often this is the cause of a compresser failure.

 

[relentless85]

I purchased a vacuum to pull when the new parts have been replaced. I also purchased an ac manifold set to connect the vacuum to and to refill the system.

I have seen the PAG oil in separate small cans that look like they attach to the ac manifold set. I believe there is a sticker on top of the coolant recovery tank that tells me how much PAG oil and freon to put in. According to the NAPA oil and refrigerant guide the 06-08 w/o rear air takes 31Oz of R134a and 9Oz of PAG-46.

I don't have a service manual, so I don't know how much oil to add for each A/C component replaced.

Can I measure out the correct amount of PAG oil and introduce it into the system through the yellow line on the manifold? I did not see the freon that already had oil in it, but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. OR do I even need to add any additional PAG oil since I am not replacing the compressor? Sorry for so many questions, I just don't want to screw something up bad!

 

[joecrna]

Sounds like you are all in. To do this best (and you've spent the money to get to this point) replace everything except the drier and tighten all connections. Use a good flush and flush anything you did not replace before connecting the new components and any hoses. It comes in an aerosol can.

Hook up the manifold set. The connections are all coded by size so you can't screw it up. Now remove the caps from the drier and hook it up. Don't forget, use all new O-rings (the green ones, not stardard) everywhere you seperate a connection in the entire system.

Now use that pump and draw a good vacuum. Most places just do an hour max but since you are doing this yourself, go for overnight. If the vacuum holds, you are ready to fill the system. All old junk should be out, oil caught in the pumps trap. The compresser is still a concern to me. I turn it over several times by hand while spraying flush through it. Then blow a little compressed air through while turning to dry it before reconnecting its hoses. Many say this is not needed.

Once the vacuum holds, your connections are good. Fill using R134a and PAG oil. They will go in as a liqued (high pressure side). You should need the full fill of both by weight. Yes there should be a tag on the system that tells what a full fill is. When I say by weight, I actually mean you use a scale and weigh the freon bottle as you go. The oil will be by the ounce, just measure it on the container it comes in.

 

[joecrna]

Did you get this job done? If so, how did it go? Is all working well now?