Tike
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 261
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Greater Philadelphia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 08 Ford Sport Trac XLT
my front diffs pinion seal was spewing gear oil. so i replaced it and the front Ujoint (which turned out to be binded up)
i couldn't find a write up so here a quick one.
Front diff is basically a Dana 30
Front U joint : 1310 (NOT the 1310BC)
Front Pinion Nut ( 1-1/8 Inch)
Torx bolt on the front U joint strap - T30 - ford part FORD 389665-S100 Bolt Lot of 4 ( these like to strip if you arent fully seated with the bit)
Things to note**
Did this on jack stands.
DO NOT need to remove the front cross member
You will need a Torch to loosen or a STRONG impact to remove the pinion nut.
Jacked up the Truck on frame rails be the drive and passenger door and put it on jack stands - make sure its secure and safe.
mark a line on the CV joint at the Tcase flange onto the CV and then inline with that mark another line on the ears of the front drive shaft and yoke and flange of Front diff ( you need this for balance)
remove the 4 Torx #30 bolts from Ujoint straps. recommend a swivel joint and a short 2inch extension on a socket or impact
remove the 6 bolts from CV joint. mine was stuck into the flange of the Tcase so i used a .5inchx4inch by 6 inch long piece of wood and 1lb hammer to gently pop it out.
** take caution to not have the CV joint open up. this is bad an will introduce contaminates and likely have the ball bearings fall out and need repacking. **
slide the front drive shaft forward towards the engine to clear the tcase the slide backwards out of the cross members.
Ujoint
i had to get a pick and remove the rust on my snap ring and pb blast it to get one loose then the other needed the torch to free it up. ( didnt care because the was gettign trashed DO not use a torch on a new Ujoint) i hammered it out with i think a 16mm deep will impact socket but a u joint / ball joint tool would be better. cleaned the grooves for the snap ring and deburred anything that needed it. installed the new u joint ( look a youtube video up)
Pinion Nut
i didnt have a transom beam torque wrench or electric so i counted the threads and marked the shaft and nut. i had to use a torch and a high torque impact to remove as she was rusted on pretty good which was a blessing and a curse. theres a nut and washer here to be remove then the yoke / flange can be removed with a two jaw puller or that same block of wood and some light tapping!
Pinion Seal
(get a jug or catch can here about 1 pint came of gear oil came out here. YMMV
bought it online for $16 or so. ford wanted $35 lol
removing the bad seal i used the wood piece and the hammer again rotating the flange to evenly remove it. then i cleaned up the mating surfaces
The new seal SUCKED and was the longest part to do. ( on your back, hands covered in gear oil and the interference fit is TIGHT. they make a tool for this but i made my own!!
first i got bearing grease and packed the retention spring on the seal so it would not pop out as we hammered it in.
i got a 4or 5inch long 2x4. then got a hole saw bit that cleared the pinion shaft but was able to seat over the new seal but was not to big as to hit the carrier.
then i tapped it with the hammer to get it slightly seated. go another piece of wood to cover this jig so i could hit dead center and evenly tapp it in. worked like a charm.
sliding in the yoke over the pinion. it needed to be tapped with the wood and hammer to fully seat it up against the oil sling washer /outer pinion bearing.
then re installing the pinion nut. so this is supper important to not over torque this as you will eat your bearing quick. and need to tear this all apart again.
so we zipped the nut on back to the same number of threads we counted and marked. and the trust on the shaft actually stopped the nute in the perfect - identical spot where all marks lined up. LOL lucky me
i reinstalled the drive shaft. replacing the u joint straps and torx bolts because i stripped one.
torqued it all to spec then put the truck on level ground and refilled the front diff with 80-90 gear oil
cleaned off all the oil from the under carriage and she was done!
hope this helps anyone that needs it.
i couldn't find a write up so here a quick one.
Front diff is basically a Dana 30
Front U joint : 1310 (NOT the 1310BC)
Front Pinion Nut ( 1-1/8 Inch)
Torx bolt on the front U joint strap - T30 - ford part FORD 389665-S100 Bolt Lot of 4 ( these like to strip if you arent fully seated with the bit)
Things to note**
Did this on jack stands.
DO NOT need to remove the front cross member
You will need a Torch to loosen or a STRONG impact to remove the pinion nut.
Jacked up the Truck on frame rails be the drive and passenger door and put it on jack stands - make sure its secure and safe.
mark a line on the CV joint at the Tcase flange onto the CV and then inline with that mark another line on the ears of the front drive shaft and yoke and flange of Front diff ( you need this for balance)
remove the 4 Torx #30 bolts from Ujoint straps. recommend a swivel joint and a short 2inch extension on a socket or impact
remove the 6 bolts from CV joint. mine was stuck into the flange of the Tcase so i used a .5inchx4inch by 6 inch long piece of wood and 1lb hammer to gently pop it out.
** take caution to not have the CV joint open up. this is bad an will introduce contaminates and likely have the ball bearings fall out and need repacking. **
slide the front drive shaft forward towards the engine to clear the tcase the slide backwards out of the cross members.
Ujoint
i had to get a pick and remove the rust on my snap ring and pb blast it to get one loose then the other needed the torch to free it up. ( didnt care because the was gettign trashed DO not use a torch on a new Ujoint) i hammered it out with i think a 16mm deep will impact socket but a u joint / ball joint tool would be better. cleaned the grooves for the snap ring and deburred anything that needed it. installed the new u joint ( look a youtube video up)
Pinion Nut
i didnt have a transom beam torque wrench or electric so i counted the threads and marked the shaft and nut. i had to use a torch and a high torque impact to remove as she was rusted on pretty good which was a blessing and a curse. theres a nut and washer here to be remove then the yoke / flange can be removed with a two jaw puller or that same block of wood and some light tapping!
Pinion Seal
(get a jug or catch can here about 1 pint came of gear oil came out here. YMMV
bought it online for $16 or so. ford wanted $35 lol
removing the bad seal i used the wood piece and the hammer again rotating the flange to evenly remove it. then i cleaned up the mating surfaces
The new seal SUCKED and was the longest part to do. ( on your back, hands covered in gear oil and the interference fit is TIGHT. they make a tool for this but i made my own!!
first i got bearing grease and packed the retention spring on the seal so it would not pop out as we hammered it in.
i got a 4or 5inch long 2x4. then got a hole saw bit that cleared the pinion shaft but was able to seat over the new seal but was not to big as to hit the carrier.
then i tapped it with the hammer to get it slightly seated. go another piece of wood to cover this jig so i could hit dead center and evenly tapp it in. worked like a charm.
sliding in the yoke over the pinion. it needed to be tapped with the wood and hammer to fully seat it up against the oil sling washer /outer pinion bearing.
then re installing the pinion nut. so this is supper important to not over torque this as you will eat your bearing quick. and need to tear this all apart again.
so we zipped the nut on back to the same number of threads we counted and marked. and the trust on the shaft actually stopped the nute in the perfect - identical spot where all marks lined up. LOL lucky me
i reinstalled the drive shaft. replacing the u joint straps and torx bolts because i stripped one.
torqued it all to spec then put the truck on level ground and refilled the front diff with 80-90 gear oil
cleaned off all the oil from the under carriage and she was done!
hope this helps anyone that needs it.
