1993 3.0L Aerostar with a no start condition.

[1968GTO]

Hello Everybody, I currently have a '93 Aerostar XLT(150K), that has been very faithful for the past 10yrs. In the last few years I have replaced starter, solenoid, battery, alternator, and ignition switch. It has run great, never misses(it is due for spark plug change)air filter changed recently. Drove across town and back(70mi) parked it. Next morning, spins like a top, but no fire. Because it has run so well, I looking for a fuse or oxygen sensor, bad coil, something along these lines. Its raining at the moment, or I'd check to see if the plugs have spark. If I've missed something or you can add 2cents, please let me know. Thanks in advance, Mike

 

[Jose A.]

just guessing, but if the engine turns, you can eliminate the starter, solenoid, battery, alternator, and ignition switch, for obvious reasons, they are all interconnected at the point of trying to start the engine, so they must be good.

try turning the ignition switch up to START (but do not try to start it), and listen for the Fuel Pump making a "swoosshh' then a short "click" noise, which will tell you that the fuel pump is also good.

stupid question: is there enough gasoline in the tank? (hey it happens!)

is it a 3.0 liter or a 4.0 liter?

 

[1968GTO]

No Start

Sorry, forgot to mention its a 3.0, And no I never have noticed a fuel pump sound. I'm used to old hot rods w/electric fuel pumps and their noises but nothing here, and I've had it for some 10 years. I dont think I would be that unaware of some click or noise on the vehicle, and no, I dont mind you asking about the tank--it's about 3/4 full.

I was kinda hoping for some reseton something, or relay I'm not aware of. It has been tip-top on starting, running and haved owned it long enough to go through all the usual r/r stuff. I changed radiator, water pump plus what I've mentioned earlier.

I did pull and check some relays under the hood, on the inner driver side fenderwell, by the master cylinder, but had no idea what they were for. And there is nothing the fuse box under the dash covered....

 

[Jose A.]

if you do not hear the Fuel Pump pressurizing the system for about 2 seconds when you move the ignition switch to START, (that's the 2-second swooosshh-click sound I am referring to), then the fuel pump might have died or has been shut off. There is no fuse for the fuel pump.

regardless, if the engine is turning to start, it sounds to me like it is not getting fuel, and if you don't hear the pressurizing noise the fuel pump makes (prior to trying to start it), (all Aerostar make that sound, I've owned 3), then at this point the fuel pump is suspect.

I think there is a Fuel Pump Reset Black Box, also called something like "Inertia Fuel Cutoff Switch", (it cuts off fuel supply if the van flips in a crash, to prevent fires). I just don't know where it is on a '93, but it could be on the front passenger side, below the dash, forward of door above or behind the plastic kick panel. It has a "spring button" on top, it might have tripped shutting off the fuel pump, don't know.

one of my Jags has it too, and sometimes the darned thing tripps too, it's like an electrical "breaker" in the Service Panel of a house. Might be worth checking.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Follow Jose's advice, and check the inertia switch behind the front kick panel. Do you see a check engine light when you turn the key to the run position? The fuel pump won't turn on if the computer won't turn on first. Sometimes it could have a bad fuse, relay, or ground connection near the battery (a thin cable). The older models had a bunch of fusible links connected to the starter relay on the fender wall. Your model doesn't have them.

 

[1968GTO]

I did not have time and had to tow it to the garage that i trust. That being said, it turned out to be the O2 sensor(something that I had planned to do from reading this site). Thanks for all the input, I have found this website well used and maintained.

 

[Jose A.]

bad O2 sensor or disconnected O2 sensor?

 

[rv4fun]

Now this ailment has struck home! My '97 3.0L started great yesterday morning with the temp close to zero. I was amazed how easy it started at that temperature. I let it warm up awhile and then drove it about 6-8 miles. It ran great. After it set for 5-6 hours (the temperature got all the way up to about 10 degrees by then), when I went to start it, it cranked and cranked with no hint of trying to start. The battery is (was) strong. I can't figure out what happened. I'm going over to try again now that it's warmed in to the 20's. Anyone have any advice? I guess that fuel cutoff would be a good place to start. Anyone have the exact location to look for it?

 

[Jose A.]

in my 1997 it is located behind the passenger side kick panel, to the right and below the glove box. Black box with a push-button called a "reset button".

 

[rv4fun]

I guess I can eliminate the safety cut-off. With temps in the mid-twenties now, when I got over to where I had to leave it, it started right up! I didn't even need to jump it. I'll bet I cranked for 4-5 minutes on and off yesterday without any sign of life. At least it's back home now with a float charger on it and I'm warming up a little. As a confirmed snow bird, I can tell you winter sucks! We had to stay home this winter to babysit our new one and only grand-daughter who was born last July. Last winter, I towed this van behind our motorhome and at this time, we were in Palm Springs, CA basking in the sun with temps in near 80 every day. The van (and I!) were much happier!

Thanks for the location on that reset. I'll look for it anyway - as soon as we get on the other side of this polar express jetstream.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the engine coolant temperature sensor, and the air charge temperature sensor. The resistance range might be out of specification. You might need an engine block heater if this only happens when it's very cold outside.

 

[rv4fun]

How much resistance should I expect on each one?

I haven't tried an ODB scan on it but I know it didn't light the service engine light.

(This is the same van I just replaced the "HI" hose on the "Differential Pressure Feedback - EGR Sensor" to put out the service engine light - I'm going to post some pictures to finish that topic up as soon as I can)

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the links in # 25 in my list of useful threads for the chart.