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How to: 1994 Head gasket replacement / engine pull
- Thread starter arco777
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arco777
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12.4 volts when running, 12.6 when off. Alternator doesn't seem to be doing anything. Don't know why, it is an aftermarket 130A unit that was working fine before the rebuild.
jd4242
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Check the wire in the plug on the alternator for voltage when key on..if none run a wire to battery as a temporary fix..12.4 volts when running, 12.6 when off. Alternator doesn't seem to be doing anything. Don't know why, it is an aftermarket 130A unit that was working fine before the rebuild.
jd4242
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Also check the wire on the stud for voltage with key off..if none you could have blow the fuseable link in the wire running from alternator to battery..if none you can run a jumper cable to battery temporary
arco777
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I ran all the tests in the Ford Service Manual and the vehicle wiring passed all of them, pointing to the alternator itself. I took the alternator to the parts store and had them test it. Sure enough, it failed. I had a receipt so it is getting replaced under warranty, arriving tomorrow. Will install and update.
I think the truck has run long enough on the cheapo STP SAE 30 oil ("not recommended for vehicles made after 1930") so I'm switching to the Castrol 5W-30 conventional tomorrow as well. After 100 miles or so I'll switch to the Mobil One Full Syn.
I think the truck has run long enough on the cheapo STP SAE 30 oil ("not recommended for vehicles made after 1930") so I'm switching to the Castrol 5W-30 conventional tomorrow as well. After 100 miles or so I'll switch to the Mobil One Full Syn.
arco777
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Changed oil. Installed new alternator. Last time it was a no-name alternator body with a Motorcraft voltage regulator, this time it's the opposite. New alt seems to work fine.
Took the truck for a drive and put 12 miles on it.
I have an exhaust leak but I think that is an easy fix. Also a small vac leak that I believe I have identified. (Update: Forgot to install EGR tube nut and the PCV valve. Both due to multiple removals of intake). No valvetrain noise or squeaks or anything.
Unfortunately the rear main seal seems to be leaking. It was before all this, but maybe not quite as much. I'll have to address that next time I take the trans out, which is probably going to be sometime this year. At this many miles it's due to get looked at anyways. I can live with the leak until then.
Took the truck for a drive and put 12 miles on it.
I have an exhaust leak but I think that is an easy fix. Also a small vac leak that I believe I have identified. (Update: Forgot to install EGR tube nut and the PCV valve. Both due to multiple removals of intake). No valvetrain noise or squeaks or anything.
Unfortunately the rear main seal seems to be leaking. It was before all this, but maybe not quite as much. I'll have to address that next time I take the trans out, which is probably going to be sometime this year. At this many miles it's due to get looked at anyways. I can live with the leak until then.
arco777
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I'm going to call this thread complete, save for any relevant updates as they occur. The engine runs well and I'll be checking compression after I put a few more miles on.
In conclusion, a motor rebuild in your garage is entirely possible. You will need time, patience, attention to detail, and a stable life situation. Many times this project got derailed by stuff but I managed to press on through. Given the opportunity to do it again, I would, but only because I am planning to keep the truck for a long time. If the Explorer was just my basic transportation, I would have simply changed the head gaskets and resurfaced the heads and called it good. The lower end on these motors is definitely stout and could have gone another 200k miles without all the work I did. The cracked ring land may have become an issue later on, but does not appear to have caused damage yet.
Update 1: Have put some more miles on. Engine runs well. Oil pressure does not seem to be affected by the Melling high volume oil pump. I do have the true oil pressure gauge mod done, and its readings are the same as before. Leads me to believe my factory oil pump was working well and the bearings weren't leaking any pressure. Power is not up significantly since the rebuild. I did fix a random stumble caused by a failing EDIS module.
Update 2: Only a few hundred miles since rebuild. Tested actual oil pressure since I was concerned about the gauge fluttering. Ford spec is 40-60 psi at 2000 RPM with engine hot.
Another member with 220k miles posted 27psi @ 2000 RPM; I get 50 with engine warm.
Other members with used engines have reported 10-15psi @ idle/600 RPM; I get 31 with engine warm.
Overall I am satisfied with oil pressure. The Melling pump does not seem to result in exceptionally high pressures, but it is a "high volume" pump. I have done the "real oil pressure gauge mod" in the cluster, and it suggested that my pressure was on the low side, but that doesn't appear to be true.
In conclusion, a motor rebuild in your garage is entirely possible. You will need time, patience, attention to detail, and a stable life situation. Many times this project got derailed by stuff but I managed to press on through. Given the opportunity to do it again, I would, but only because I am planning to keep the truck for a long time. If the Explorer was just my basic transportation, I would have simply changed the head gaskets and resurfaced the heads and called it good. The lower end on these motors is definitely stout and could have gone another 200k miles without all the work I did. The cracked ring land may have become an issue later on, but does not appear to have caused damage yet.
Update 1: Have put some more miles on. Engine runs well. Oil pressure does not seem to be affected by the Melling high volume oil pump. I do have the true oil pressure gauge mod done, and its readings are the same as before. Leads me to believe my factory oil pump was working well and the bearings weren't leaking any pressure. Power is not up significantly since the rebuild. I did fix a random stumble caused by a failing EDIS module.
Update 2: Only a few hundred miles since rebuild. Tested actual oil pressure since I was concerned about the gauge fluttering. Ford spec is 40-60 psi at 2000 RPM with engine hot.
Another member with 220k miles posted 27psi @ 2000 RPM; I get 50 with engine warm.
Other members with used engines have reported 10-15psi @ idle/600 RPM; I get 31 with engine warm.
Overall I am satisfied with oil pressure. The Melling pump does not seem to result in exceptionally high pressures, but it is a "high volume" pump. I have done the "real oil pressure gauge mod" in the cluster, and it suggested that my pressure was on the low side, but that doesn't appear to be true.
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