1996 Eddie Bauer Subwoofer

[suave6565]

Just Recently i Blew out the the rear Subwoofer to my 1996 EB explorer. It started out with the ratling noise it makes when woofer is torn...then one day i was driving, i heard a song that i liked, i raised the volume to get the full effect...then the bass just started fade quickly till i had no bass at all. right now my radio sounds like a walkman and im looking to replace the subwoofer with the same or better subwoofer. i've been reading and looking for subs for my X...but it seems more complicated to find the proper impedence without blowing out your factory amp. I'm not looking to do a overhaul or revolutionize the X stereo system...im some what happy with the factor JBL system that my X came with, im just looking to replace it with the same or better sub.

Can anyone recommend a replacement sub that i can purchase without screwing up my factory radio...i would like to enjoy it long enough so i can get some cash to replace the radio and speaker in the distant future

 

[Longjohn119]

Here's a little trick, a rule of thumb if you like, on estimating the dynamic impedance of a woofer ... measure the DC resistance of the voice coil with a multimeter ...

An 8 Ohm impedance will measure around 7 ohms, give or take 1/2 an ohm

A 4 ohm impedance will measure around 3.2 ohms give or take 1/2 ohm

My '91 measured about 6.5 ohms DC and and later I confirmed it was an 8 ohm speaker and the amp, which I took out and measured on the workbench, put out 85 Watts RMS ... I don't measure in peak watts because that is a bogus measure and was more or less banned by AES for pro and even home stereo equipment way back in the early 70's ... the fact that auto sound manufacturers still use it says a lot about the state of 'hucksterism' prevelent in the industry ... there is a place for peak measurements but ONLY when a true RMS measurement is included along with it ...

 

[suave6565]

Thanks Longjohn,

But the fact of the matter is...i dont know how to use a multimeter...i was hoping to get some recommendations on a brand of speaker that fits the specifications to the truck with out damaging the amp. there has to be some aftermarket things out there

 

[Longjohn119]

MCM has an economical one that should work OK, nothing special but neither is the stock one ... plenty of extra headroom

55-2361 Pyle 6.5" 8 ohm 150 RMS - 14.25 + S&H

http://mcm.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/mcm/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=55-2361&N=4

 

[suave6565]

Thanks Long John!!!!


i will buy them tommorrow!!!

 

[Longjohn119]

You may have to make a slight modification to the box because the magnet looks bigger, you'll see what I mean when you take the old woofer out, but it shouldn't be a big deal. There is a holder the magnet slides into you'll probably have to cut out with a hacksaw blade, a dremel tool would be faster if you have one but that isn't necessary ... I'd put a piece of foam there to help support the new woofer but it shouldn't be a big deal ...

Let me know how it goes because I need to put one in also but it's down the list until after I get the rocker panel replacement done (One side done and ready to put the doors back on and the easy side to go)

 

[mmmmark]

I also wanted to replace my blown sub from my 97 JBL system without gutting it and starting over. A local shop recommended this JL Audio sub as a direct replacement: JL Audio 6W0-8

Be sure to get the 8 ohm variety since it also comes in a 4.

It adds a lot more low end and considerable more punch than the stock one. It's magnet is massive. The biggest draw for me was it fit perfectly!

I modified the attached gasket so that it was only on the backside under the mount. The full gasket didn't fit. I added about 6 inches of wire to make it easier on me. (the + and the - are 180 degrees apart on this speaker rather than next to each other.)

Here are some shots of it:

 

[suave6565]

that is great!!!

I just got them in(pyle as recommended by longjohn)...so now im looking to do the work...i havnt even taken them out of the box yet....i just need to know a few things before i start....what tools do i need and whats the easiest & safest way to get them out.

mmmark,

the magnet size on the jlaudio also looks about the same size as the pyle...so im hoping it would be a good fit as well. thanks for the advice as well.

 

[Longjohn119]

A phillips screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and perhaps a star driver to take out the seat belt harness above the rear seat .... first take off the plate along the rear gate, pull up the carpet and you'll find 3 or 4 more phillips screws, pop out those plug looking things above and below the rear side window ... you might be able to get it out far enough to release the clips holding the cover on, if not you'll have to get a star driver to remove the seat belt harness ... the rest should be easy enough to figure out

 

[suave6565]

Ok, im assuming that i have to take out the whole rear panel to properly install the speaker? if so, will the amp be exposed also....if thats the case, i might as well check on the connection for my FM radio. i only get AM stations but when i switch to FM....its as if its on MUTE. i crank up the volume but i can barely hear the stations...everything else works just fine when i switch to AM or CD. do you have guys have any idea where should i look for if in fact its the connection or am i missing something.

Thanks again Longjohn

 

[suave6565]

LongJohn,

The Pyles Worked!! with some minor adjustment i was able to mount them..the only thing...the screw holes did not match up properly but i was able to get them on.

They sound good but think these have a shy bit less of a punch then the originals.

now i have bass!!!

Thanks again longjohn!!!