1997 5sp improper shift at stand still

[asinrolls]

New to this forum so if this has been covered please direct me to thread.

I am having issues shifting into lower gears when at stand still. Reverse likes to grind. doesn't want to go into first. I usually clear by going through gears usually 4th gear will line things up.
Vehicle background. I bought as non runner(bad fuel pump). It had sat for 9 years. I have put close to 10k on it since it has about 115k on it. Shifts fine when moving. I have replace fluid with mercon V and added about a pint of marvel. About 500 miles since change. Does shift smoother but no help on the shift at stop. I get a feeling where this is going but any simple fix's would be appreciated. Oh Ya the clutch pedal is firm at top so I don't think it is a bleeding issue.

Thanks

 

[JK080]

Whatever the reason it sounds like the clutch is not fully being disengaged.

Things that can cause this are air in the lines, failed master and slave, worn or dry pilot bushing, deteriorating clutch disk or failed pressure plate.

Bleeding the system and replacing the master is the only options you have short of pulling it out and inspecting the clutch. At that point I would replace the clutch assembly, resurface the flywheel, replace the slave cylinder and the pilot bearing.

 

[RangerX]

I agree with JK, but I will say that the slave going bad seems to be the most common problem on the manual transmissions...

 

[asinrolls]

Thanks

Thanks guys. I kind of figure I am heading for a clutch replacement. At 115K if I pull the tranny I am not putting it back up w/out a fresh parts.

As far as air in lines. All I have read(just like brakes) the pedal would be squishy at top. I did bleed slave both gravity and with help ala brakes push push hold.

Dry pilot or weak throw out bearing not allowing synchros to align? Seem as though if I put into fourth in between reverse and 1st helps. goes fine into 1st as I pull up to stop as long as I do it before I stop.

Can the master be replace w/out pulling tranny?. I would definitely go there first.

Thanks for your help

 

[asinrolls]

oops

I think I meant slave not master.

 

[JK080]

Thanks guys. I kind of figure I am heading for a clutch replacement. At 115K if I pull the tranny I am not putting it back up w/out a fresh parts.

As far as air in lines. All I have read(just like brakes) the pedal would be squishy at top. I did bleed slave both gravity and with help ala brakes push push hold.

Dry pilot or weak throw out bearing not allowing synchros to align? Seem as though if I put into fourth in between reverse and 1st helps. goes fine into 1st as I pull up to stop as long as I do it before I stop.

Can the master be replace w/out pulling tranny?. I would definitely go there first.

Thanks for your help

Not all hydraulic clutch systems will have a spongy pedal at the top if there is air in the lines, Does the clutch engage near the floor or near the top? If near the floor it could indicate air in the line.

The release bearing or throwout bearing generally won't cause this kind of issue, it usually makes noise mostly when the clutch pedal is depressed.

A dry or failed pilot bearing can turn or drive the input shaft of the transmission, when this happens it will be hard to get into gear. The bearing can also damage the input shaft so be aware when you pull it apart.

When you choose 4th gear this stops the input shaft from turning and when the shaft stops it will be easy to engage the lower gears.

Bottom line is somthing is allowing the the input shaft to still turn when the clutch is disengaged, this is usually caused by faulty hydraulics, failed clutch disk or pressure plate, or a failed pilot bearing.

The only part you can replace short of removing the transmission is the master cylinder.

 

[asinrolls]

Thanks.

It is engaging close to the floor. I am going to try to bleed master and slave one more time. Dry pilot makes sense as it sat for close to 10 years.

 

[JK080]

One thing about bleeding these, they are difficult to get all the air out.

What I found works for us is to be aggressive with pumping the clutch pedal, be a little rough with it like the floormat is on fire and you are stomping it out!

 

[asinrolls]

Thank you.
I was going to engage help of a friend and use the old brake method. pump 5 time hold. open, close, repeat. making sure not to let master get dry.

 

[malohnes]

One thing about bleeding these, they are difficult to get all the air out.

What I found works for us is to be aggressive with pumping the clutch pedal, be a little rough with it like the floormat is on fire and you are stomping it out!

Outstanding way to put it!! Reminds me of the madness of trying to bleed the RABS module on my '91!!!