1997 Explorer - Left rear door will not unlock.

[Hamster65]

I need to get the door panel off to fix whatever has gone wrong in there but, I need to get the door open so I can.
The door won't unlock manually or electrically. It doesn't feel like anything is broken or disconnected. It feels more like something is stuck or binding. Pushing the button down, I can hear and feel the lock engage. Trying to pull it up however, it only moves about half way and stops...........not moving far enough to unlock the door.

Any ideas on how to remedy this situation?

 

[Craigerz]

It’s a pretty common problem. There’s a spring that breaks in the door latch. You can play with it and sometimes you can get it unlocked one more time. But if you can’t its a major PIA if it gets stuck closed.

 

[Craigerz]

You’ll have to take the door panel off inside the truck. You can get to the striker through the inside of the door. It’s a T50 I think.

 

[swshawaii]

If this fails, unbolt the seat(s) for added clearance to remove the door panel.

 

[Hamster65]

It’s a pretty common problem. There’s a spring that breaks in the door latch. You can play with it and sometimes you can get it unlocked one more time. But if you can’t its a major PIA if it gets stuck closed.

View attachment 157464

I "played" with it for about half an hour, then my fingers started cramping up. I then put a pair of vice grips on it and continued on for another 10 minutes or so until my arm was just too tired to mess with it. The method I used was to attempt to lock then unlock it about 3 times, then yank it up hard and hold it then pull on the door handle..........then repeat.

 

[fast_dave]

As Cragierz and swshawaii said:

* common well-documented issue,
* spring in striker box broke,
* to fix - take off interior door panel,
* pull out seats if necessary.

By now there might even be a write-up on the interwebs talking about how to JUST replace the broken spring with an aftermarket/hardware store spring - as opposed to purchasing a new striker box from FORD for at least $50 - $60!

I'm sure somebody will chime in ;-)

Good luck!

 

[Hamster65]

You’ll have to take the door panel off inside the truck. You can get to the striker through the inside of the door. It’s a T50 I think.

I just don't see that happening. The little clips holding the panel on, are a bear to get off even with the door open. I found this out when I removed the right side door panel so I could see where and how the linkage was routed.

 

[Hamster65]

If this fails, unbolt the seat(s) for added clearance to remove the door panel.

This only works if you can unlock the door. Both the inside and outside door handles are fine and connected. I can feel and hear the linkage move when I pull on them.

 

[fast_dave]

I just don't see that happening. The little clips holding the panel on, are a bear to get off even with the door open. I found this out when I removed the right side door panel so I could see where and how the linkage was routed.

Roll down the window, unscrew the screw under the inner door handle and remove the small piece of plastic that surrounds the door handle, and pry off the inner door panel from the bottom and both sides - it's doable.

The only thing that holds the inner door panel to the door itself are "push in friction clips"

Pull / pry inner door panel towards you to overcome the friction of the clips...

I'm sure that this is well documented with videos on YOUTUBE

If you want to spend money, there's always these tools:

 

[swshawaii]

^ Good advice fast_dave. Removing the panel with the door stuck closed is one of those PITA jobs where patience is EVERYTHING. Finesse using the proper tools is key, and using force will only lead to breaking a long discontinued and overpriced used door panel. That is IF you can find one in reasonable shape in your matching color and options.

 

[swshawaii]

OP, these links are not specific to your problem, but have "some" door latch mechanism pics that may be useful. My bet is one of the linkages is broken, or has become disconnected, particularly the "yellow" threaded folding clip. The 1/4" rivet holding the actuator is also known for breaking.

door latch problem solved - temporarily maybe??

How To: Drivers Exterior Door Handle Replacement

 

[fast_dave]

On the same note.

Has anybody out there figured out what "aftermarket/hardware store spring" can be fitted into the interior of these striker box assemblies for when JUST the spring breaks???

I save BOTH of my old ones hoping for this -

 

[Hamster65]

Roll down the window, unscrew the screw under the inner door handle and remove the small piece of plastic that surrounds the door handle, and pry off the inner door panel from the bottom and both sides - it's doable.

The only thing that holds the inner door panel to the door itself are "push in friction clips"

Pull / pry inner door panel towards you to overcome the friction of the clips...

I'm sure that this is well documented with videos on YOUTUBE

If you want to spend money, there's always these tools:

 

[Mr. Alligator]

On the same note.

Has anybody out there figured out what "aftermarket/hardware store spring" can be fitted into the interior of these striker box assemblies for when JUST the spring breaks???

I save BOTH of my old ones hoping for this -

I was able to secure an EXTERNAL spring to the mechanism, and anchor it inside the door. Used a zip tie to keep it in place.

Good luck!

 

[Craigerz]

If anyone has a part number for the rear door latches, I would like that. I couldn't find them and had to modify 2 front latches.

 

[swshawaii]

Price around. I was lucky and found OEM new old stock (NOS) open box front latches for $25 each shipped on eBay.
Rear latches may be more difficult to find for a good price. Good luck, replacing latches are like putting puzzles together. LOL

Rear
F77Z-7826412-B (Right)
F77Z-7826413-B (Left)

 

[fast_dave]

Price around. I was lucky and found OEM new old stock (NOS) open box front latches for $25 each shipped on eBay.
Rear latches may be more difficult to find for a good price. Good luck, replacing latches are like putting puzzles together. LOL

Rear
F77Z-7826412-B (Right)
F77Z-7826413-B (Left)

Set aside a good 4 hours if this is your 1st tme - as swshawaii said, once you get in the door it's a puzzle.

Also, while you're in there, you might want to grease the electric window lift mechanism (and the pivot rivet).

The grease in the mechanism tracks will be dry and full of gunk after all these years.

After you lube it up, you'll be amazed how fast your windows will go up and down!

 

[XLTrunner]

Did this just happen suddenly...or, had the truck been sitting for awhile without the lock being operated? Reason I ask, it's possible the pivot pin that acts as the fulcrum for the door actuator motor rod and the upper lock knob rod could be rusty. Just had that happen on mine. Fortunately, I was able to grab hold of the upper knob with pliers and eventually pull it upwards while pushing on the lock/unlock button repeatedly. Then, once the door opened, I could spray some WD40 on the latch to further loosen it up. Perhaps you could roll the window down and spray down inside there from the top in hopes of getting some lubricant on that pivot pin.

 

[Craigerz]

HOW TO - Remove and replace door latch assembly

Found this browsing around

 

[J_C]

My driver's side rear door latch spring broke but apparently because I'd lubed it after having to replace my driver's door latch, it continues to work to this day. Unfortunately that doesn't help much if you can't get it open to lube it.

In some topic a member posted that they found a replacement spring but when I checked my local hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowes, and a mom 'n pop place) none had a suitable spring for an in-the-latch replacement.

I contacted some spring companies inquiring what it would cost to have a batch of springs made and one never got back to me, one wanted an elaborate customer ID and every last spring spec (that I didn't know) just to process an inquiry, but the 3rd company, Newcomb Spring, ballparked a lot of 100 springs would run roughly $250 and the cost for fewer than 100 wouldn't drop much. This was in 2013. Since I didn't need 100 nor wish to become a spring salesman, I dropped the idea.