1998 ford explorer suv -- catalytic converter?

[mark11]

After 300,000 miles...my 1998 ford ex suv crapped out.
Local mechanic found a same used engine -- 100000 miles -- in a ford truck and popped it in for about 1600.00 w/new radiator. Been fine for 4 months now.

It seems now...same compression problems -- lowered compression; takes moments to ramp up to speed and recently...white smoke out from under catalytic converter as well as tail pipe...all only happening -- a few days ago.

No water in oil; no oil leakage; recent oil-lube change, THAT mechanic did me a favor to check my compression because I was certain my catalytic converter is simply shot to hell.

He found 1 cylinder WAS NOT firing. This same situation happened before the previous engine at 300,000 miles crapped out.

My guess, w/limited info, is the catalytic converter is on its way out.
And it's causing all these problems again.
I trust the mechanic who popped in the used engine.
ENGINE CHECK LIGHT also flashes on and off.

Any info would be cool.

 

[joecrna]

Check for codes, drive for a bit to see if there is any oil consumption. Which engine are we talking about?

 

[mark11]

catalytic convertor reply 1

CHECKED OIL LAST NIGHT...STILL FINE FROM OIL CHANGE LESS 2 MONTHS AGO.

HAVE NOTICED a somewhat quick consumption of water and anti freeze...but OIL is not milk gray. No leakage. No sense of messed up block.

could be something messed up by old heater core and catay convertor at same time?

 

[mark11]

Talking about a 6 cyl engine out of a Ford Trucl...believe it was a Ranger...but same, exact size, make of origin. 1998 Ford Explorer 6 cyl SPORT, which I have. mechanic was really happy to find this used engine and have it fit so well and quick.

 

[Stick4503]

You have a water / antifreeze consumption along with white smoke from tail pipe and a cylinder that is not firing probably due to a fouled plug. This all leads to a blown head gasket or a cracked head. This can be checked with a test for exhaust gas in your radiator. You can loan a tool this test kit at Autozone plus the purchase of the test fluid.

Fluid is around $10 and test kit loan deposit around $25

 

[mark11]

aLSO JUST NOTICED...WHITE SMOKE coming out from middle of exhaust pipe under SUV...at what looks like a clamped area -- between cataly conv and actual exhaust pipe?

 

[mark11]

Ive only noticed the white smoke in past day or so...when weather got colder. Also, not having all of these probs at once on short drives -- 50 to 80 miles; but took round trip yesterday over 300 miles t end of trip at night in cold...the white smoke started

 

[mark11]

Not sure how it can be a cracked block or blown head gasket when the oil isn't milky water? And no oil leaks around head gasket. Someone told me about a weird link between bad heater core, catalytic conv. I'll take it to a closer mechanic today, tomorrow. But, definitely got under SUV and saw smoke coming from that "clamp" area; I'll try and search for obvious holes there...and look more closely around head gasket today before I do the test you mentioned. Big thx for advice.

 

[Valas1969]

have you checked for clogged catalytic converter? Has your explorer seem like it lost power? Does it seem like your exhaust is restricted coming out the back? The only reason i ask these questions is that unless your clamps on your exhaust are really loose on your pipes you shouldn't have leaks around them. clogged exhaust will also make it run like crap also.

 

[mark11]

jUST FOUND AN obvious leak at that clamp area what looks like between cconv and rest of exhaust. Besides white smoke...it looks like bubbling foam?

I also came back from parts store...the clerk recommended:

1) look at all spark plugs for fouling
2) maybe purchase a spark plug piece that attaches to plug holder and then put the plug in that -- suppose to give me more gap space and cut down on fouling
3) gasket leak sealer if problem isn't too bad at this point -- no leaks at head gasket site I can see or on ground...
4) And then search at c conv clamp area and fix that; search for holes in c. conv...all BEFORE:
5) rEPLACING C CONV AND AGAIN, ALL BEFORE
6) spending cash on actually replacing head gasket

 

[Valas1969]

jUST FOUND AN obvious leak at that clamp area what looks like between cconv and rest of exhaust. Besides white smoke...it looks like bubbling foam?

OK, but how much pressure is coming out your tailpipe?

 

[mark11]

I won't know about the pressure coming out of tail pipe until I have a compresssion test done...right? More white smoke in cold weather than warm...when there's none at all

 

[Valas1969]

I won't know about the pressure coming out of tail pipe until I have a compression test done...right? More white smoke in cold weather than warm...when there's none at all

just put your hand back by the tail pipe and have someone rev the engine and see how much if any pressure is coming out. shouldn't be much at idle but when revved it should push your hand back a little.

i had a car with clogged cat and it ran ok but lost lots of speed going up hill and gas mileage was crap till exhaust rusted out and had to replace it from in front of cat (Ohio so eliminated cat) and was amazed how much power came back and gas mileage went up. didnt have to floor it to go up hills anymore and didnt lose speed going up hill either.

 

[mark11]

Pressure test

Got it...will do so and let you know.
Big thx to you for advice.

 

[Valas1969]

as for fowled plug it could have been that way when engine was put in unless you change them when you had motor put in.

 

[joecrna]

1) The mechanic that found replacement motor was very happy because of all the restrictions here in CA. If he wasn't careful (sounds like he was) its an engine swap and not a replacement. swap= lots of trouble for you.

2) Extremely unlikely cat converter has anything to do with "white smoke".

3) If truely white (always easier to see when colder out) and not slightly blue tinted, this points to burning water and not oil.

So you are using water but can not find any on the ground after driving or letting it sit over night. You just ruled out an under hood leak. Where else does the water go? Check interior floor mats, especially passenger side and up near dash area. Wet=heater core leak, dry is normal. Re-investigate under hood for leaks. How much water are you using (per week and per 100 miles). Pay especial attention around overflow tank, radiator cap, hose connections (upper and lower as well as heater hoses), thermostat housing and water pump.

Still no underhood leak or heater core only a couple places left. White smoke in exhaust suggests you are burning the water. Either cracked block of blown head gasket. If your V6 is a SOHC like mine, you probably have a blown head gasket. To investigate if you are really burning water there are several things to do. Pull the spark plug out of the cylinder with the miss. Is it water fouled or just plain clean compared to your other plugs. If so thats the offending cylinder. As Stick4503 said, you can test the radiator fluid for combustion products, or even look for bubbles. You can test the exhaust for burnt anti-freeze.

If you look for bubbles, never open the radiator cap with the engine hot. Feel the hoses and cap first. This is also the least effective test. You dumped all the oil and looked for water (grey oil instead of black, oil level going up instead of down, or even just a little actual water as the last bit of oil drains from the pan). The final step is a compression test and a leak down test. If your water usage is slow (mine is, about 1 gallon per 1000 miles) you may actually pass all of these inspections. However, if you are using water and do not have a leak anywhere, you are burning it. Only one of two ways. Blown head gasket or cracked block. Just not really bad yet and/or water jacket not communicating with oil passages where gasket is blown.

Get the scan tool (borrow) from a parts store. You will likely find only codes for a miss. Mine doesn't even have that issue. Take it back to the mechanic that put the "new" engine in and let him have a look. This is not a catalitic converter. Also, remember those are very expensive to replace here in CA as they must be an exact replacement for the vehicle it goes on and not just some generic replacement. The SOHC engine has 3 converters. Heck, CARB even tells mechanics not to rebuild engines here. They are very unlikely to pass smog inspection if they look hard.

 

[Valas1969]

1) The mechanic that found replacement motor was very happy because of all the restrictions here in CA. If he wasn't careful (sounds like he was) its an engine swap and not a replacement. swap= lots of trouble for you.


Get the scan tool (borrow) from a parts store. You will likely find only codes for a miss. Mine doesn't even have that issue. Take it back to the mechanic that put the "new" engine in and let him have a look. This is not a catalitic converter. Also, remember those are very expensive to replace here in CA as they must be an exact replacement for the vehicle it goes on and not just some generic replacement. The SOHC engine has 3 converters. Heck, CARB even tells mechanics not to rebuild engines here. They are very unlikely to pass smog inspection if they look hard.

wow so you can't rebuild engines in Cali? that sucks

In my opinion very small amount of water would not foul a plug. my dad and i rebuilt motors for a living and if you have a lot of carbon buildup in engine best way to eliminate it is use a spray bottle of water and spray in intake a little at a time and it will clean cylinders damn near spotless and not foul plugs. but that's just my experience and opinion.

 

[mark11]

Well...after going to parts store and getting new plugs and catal conv fluid which supposedly unclogs clogged cata. conv., I was damn anxious to get dirty and check everything out...step by step. first thing...I checked under oil cap again...and never seeing milky grey on under the cap before....I was getting hype.

much to my dismay...this time:

MILKY BROWN under oil cap. for the first time since...engine put in; lube change done two months ago...no sign then.

My guess for now, before I even change the plugs...is assuming it's a blown head gasket. And not -- CRACKED HEAD BLOCK. That's the last friggin' thing I need.

Question then becomes...if I drive this only to work and back 10 miles each way on straight...no hills for a month or so until I have the cash to have a mechanic change gasket, since I don't have tools or garage to work in during our rain season;
can I get by without damaging much more?

Just dump oil and water in.
Not pulling anything.
Just simply driving.

I'm also gonna try slightly unloosening catay conv. clamp to release any clogged up pressure built up there from original engine which crapped out at 300,00 miles.

I did see some wet fluid dripping from cataly. conv. now -- NEVER seen before.

 

[Valas1969]

Well...after going to parts store and getting new plugs and catal conv fluid which supposedly unclogs clogged cata. conv., I was damn anxious to get dirty and check everything out...step by step. first thing...I checked under oil cap again...and never seeing milky grey on under the cap before....I was getting hype.

much to my dismay...this time:

MILKY BROWN under oil cap. for the first time since...engine put in; lube change done two months ago...no sign then.

can I get by without damaging much more?

I'm also gonna try slightly unloosening catay conv. clamp to release any clogged up pressure built up there from original engine which crapped out at 300,00 miles.

I did see some wet fluid dripping from cataly. conv. now -- NEVER seen before.

Sorry to hear.

ok first and foremost do not drive for another month with water in oil. just a suggestion, drain the oil and put fresh oil in drain radiator and run vehicle for a minute to put fresh oil in whole motor. DO NOT DRIVE IT! Water in your oil will damage motor to the point you will wipe out your main bearing, cam bearings, rod bearings and cylinders and be replacing it again. Second did you get warranty on motor? If so repair may be covered. as for water coming from cat, it may be that head gasket or cracked head may be leaking into exhaust journal but i am not sure what damage that would do to cat.

 

[mark11]

No...the warranty expired probably a month back or so. 90 day labor; maybe 6 mths parts. It was drop in "used" with only100 000 miles on it. I feel confident w mechanic, so he wasn't ####ing with me. he's trying to build up client base and since I work at a prison nearby...I'm the last he wants to screw with. I can make his name **** real fast; without even having him investigated for faulty biz practices. That's why he's not going to screw with me.

Still want to look at and change plugs...but seeing the milky brown under oil cap was cool at all.

what do you mean by DRAIN RADIATOR?
I can change oil, that's ez; same w/ replacing plugs. god knows there's enough sealant "this" and sealant "that"
at the auto parts store for temp fixes.

I CANNOT go a month w/o driving this. My only ride to work.