1999 Limited SOHC 2WD explorer turns over and wont start

[k12k08]

Hello,
I have a 1999 Limited SOHC 2WD explorer. It was running good until the other day where it failed to start 3 times and did on the fourth. It ran the whole day. The very next morning it wont start at all. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, checked the inertia switch already. I found out that there is no power going to the spark plugs. Where should I go from this lead? Thank you for your time.

 

[kevinspann]

Crank it over and watch the Check Engine Light. If it stays illuminated during cranking, I would first check the crank position sensor. It can be reached from underneath. If that is the issue make sure it's plugged in first, then replace.

If the CEL doesn't stay lit, report back.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

 

[k12k08]

Thanks guys for your posts I tried jumping and cracking it to see if the check engine light will appear and it did, while i was cranking it. Then it magically started ! I really think I just got lucky, i dont want the problem to occur again. While the car is on, no check engine light. However what i did notice is when i am doing a slow turn it vibrates the **** of the car, ( that never ever happened before all this trouble). From reading on the issue briefly, it appears like the ball joints needs to be lubbed up.

However what I really wanted to add since someone posted the start failure troubleshoot thread. I have always had the problem of the theft light blinking while the car was running recently( about 3-4 months ), which of course should turn off after the engine is on. Can that be the problem? Since it was the first option of the thread. Now since the car is magically on, no blinking light.

I am about to buy a new battery since mine is pure ****. I will try testing it again after the car has been off for a while. The thing that worries me is, if I ever drive to a destination, I don't want the car to refuse to start! That would suck ass!

Thanks guys for putting the time on helping me and sorry for the long post

 

[k12k08]

Crank it over and watch the Check Engine Light. If it stays illuminated during cranking, I would first check the crank position sensor. It can be reached from underneath. If that is the issue make sure it's plugged in first, then replace.

If the CEL doesn't stay lit, report back.

I made a video of it while it is cranking. I wasn't expecting it to turn on, a big surprise but this exactly how it was turning over before it actually turned on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXSoEWeXn4M

probably wont help but worth a shot

 

[k12k08]

anyone?

 

[aletheuo]

Wiring to the anti-theft module? Take off your steering column covers and have a look at the black thing torxed on under the ignition switch. It makes a ring around the ignition switch. Follow the electrical connection back out of the box and verify it's good. Is your key in good shape or starting to crack and fall apart?

 

[k12k08]

I will do that when I get home and my key is decent, is possible to cut and program a key without going to the dealer? I swore I read that someone where to want to ensure it is possible.

 

[aletheuo]

FWIW, i only got one key with my sport trac so I took the black module off and hot glued the key into it and zip tied it under the dash. Got two regular keys cut and I'm off the the races rather than having to pay $150 to the dealer for another key.

 

[kevinspann]

Hmmmm, it fired up as soon as the CEL went off. I would still take a look at the crank sensor and wiring, if it were me.

I had one on my SHO that caused a no start once. I took it out, sprayed out the connector and sensor, put it back together and no issues. I think the plug had come loose.

 

[k12k08]

It happened again and this time I was stuck at grocery store 10 miles away from my house and the exact same problem happened today! ! I noticed while my key in the ignition the theft light did not blink, so I am pretty sure I can rule out the pats system. I luckily started my car after 5 hours. The way I did it is that on my phone I read people with a similar problem hit and move the relay box and the car stated. So my assumption is the fuse relay box is bad?? any input on this, TIA!!!

 

[Alsorath]

I would look into a possible bad crankshaft position sensor or a bad Distributorless Ignition Module.

If memory serves, a Chilton repair manual shows step by step instructions for testing both of these with a volt ohm meter. A bad DIS module will cause some interesting problems, like the truck will start when it is cold, after running a while, voila! the engine shuts down and refuses to start untill it cools off again.

This also will be somewhat applicable to stalling under braking or steering at low idle. General rule of thumb, if the truck stalls, then starts right back up, look at the fuel system. If cooldown is required, look at the DIS module.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Integrated DIS

I would look into a possible bad crankshaft position sensor or a bad Distributorless Ignition Module. . .

In the 1999 model the DIS is integrated into the PCM. It is not a separate module.

The original posts states "I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, checked the inertia switch already. I found out that there is no power going to the spark plugs." Have you tested the fuel pressure? Try spraying starter fluid into the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate. If it runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel problem. How did you determine there was no power to the spark plugs?

 

[Alsorath]

In the 1999 model the DIS is integrated into the PCM. It is not a separate module.

Hadn't worked on a 99 yet, still busting knuckles on the 90-95 series. Thanks for the correction

 

[k12k08]

In the 1999 model the DIS is integrated into the PCM. It is not a separate module.

The original posts states "I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, checked the inertia switch already. I found out that there is no power going to the spark plugs." Have you tested the fuel pressure? Try spraying starter fluid into the intake manifold downstream of the throttle plate. If it runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel problem. How did you determine there was no power to the spark plugs?

It is luckily working again and no problems since I moved and tapped the relay box under the hood. The very first time this happened, I tested the power to the spark plugs with a key in the middle of the coil and no spark. I am hoping this wont happen again but at the same time I do, so I can diagnose and finally repair this annoying problem. It is scary going somewhere and your not sure if your car will start up to go home. I just wish there was a way to diagnose this problem without the problem being repeated. Anyone have a solution? I think it could be the crankshaft position sensor but at the same time, the car still turns on so could be a faulty fuse box wiring?

 

[k12k08]

Same thing happened again while I was at school -___- I tapped and messed with the fuses and it refused to start until the last time I messed with them and removed my radio face plate and started right up. Any ideas guys?