2000 explorer grinding brakes

[Sands210]

well first off I'm new to this forum and I found it because of course I now own an explorer yeah!! Big ups the the creator of this forum and every single member. Any way as the title states I have an issue going on with my wheels and a grinding noise. Well to begin, when I purchased the truck I realized that it will be needed brake soon. I drove for about a week tops with no issues until I heard a sqeaking noise so I proceeded to purchase brake pads. The same day I purchased the pads the explorer began to make an ugly grinding noise. So that's when I parked it and went to purchase some rotors. The next night after work I started to replace the old rotors and brake pads with the new ones. I also went ahead and replaced the inner and outer bearings. Now that I did the whole job I noticed that the grinding noise was still there not only that but like a scraping noise as well. I looked it up and found that the brakes need to be "broken" in so I did the 30/30/30 rule but, I still manage to hear the grinding and scraping. So upon more reasearch I found that the backing plate might be bent so I tried straightening it out and even removing the shield itself but yet the grinding and scraping noise is still there. Another thing I also noticed, is that when I tightened the wheel hub nut? The wheel on the drivers side moves freely but the wheel on the passenger side does not move at all when tightened all the way which is very odd to me. There is no play at all when I jack up the car and shake the wheel other then the passenger side due to having a bad upper control arm bushing which is getting replaced. Another thing I did is I thought I might(if possible) of put the pads on backwards so I switched them and yet I still here the grinding and scraping noise. Can it be my pistons are bad? Could it be a worped rotor?(which I doubt because I replaced everything and the noise was before and after) this is so mind blowing to me. It could be something easy. I checked all the brake clips and check the rotor but there is no sign of wear on the rotor. Ive been driving my explorer for two days like this and I'm not sure if it's dangerous or not because the brakes actually work real well.

I think that's everything that I did. I hope I explained enough if anybody needs any more info just please ask me.

It's a 2000 explorer xlt sohc 4.0 2wd
160k

 

[koda2000]

I don't know if it effects the scrapping/grinding noise, but it sounds like you need to replace/rebuild the brake caliper on the passenger side (I'd replace/rebuild both front calipers). Re-manufactured calipers are fairly inexpensive and just as good as new ones. I'd also inspect/replace and lubricate the caliper pins. You say the driver's side moves freely... there's normally some perceptible drag with disc brakes.

Regarding the grinding noise, last year I replaced the front pads and clips on my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer. Within a few days she reported a terrible grinding noise. I removed both front wheels and inspected the brakes. Everything looked fine. I put the wheels back on and took the truck around the block and heard no noise. I then did some heavy braking and heard what she was talking about. I removed the front wheels again and inspected the clearance on the clips. I found they were not quite centered on the rotor. Apparently, when the rotors got hot they expanded from heat and the clips scraped on the rotor. There was no indication of this on the clip or the rotor. I adjusted the clips and bent the small tabs on the clips over to make sure they couldn't move. It's been well over a year and no more grinding noise. Frankly it was hard to believe that the rotor dragging on the clip could produce such a loud, horrible noise, but that was the problem.

 

[swshawaii]

As usual, great info from koda. OP, you replaced pads, rotors, and hub bearings but failed to mention doing a complete brake flush. As mentioned, since you're checking the caliper pins and pistons for binding or sticking anyway, open the bleeders one at a time and push the pistons all the way in to expel contaminants trapped behind the pistons BEFORE flushing, otherwise that crap could back flush through the ABS system causing bigger and expensive issues.If you find binding in the pistons it's probably best to replace with rebuilt calipers rather than using a rebuild kit that only contains a rubber boot and square piston seal. I replaced all four corners with black powder coated NAPA Eclipse semi loaded rebuilts that were locally available and have a lifetime warranty.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=brake caliper&isApplication=true&isInterchange=true&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh

First pic shows what remains AFTER a flush without opening the bleeders before bottoming out the pistons.

May have contributed to sticking piston caused by a damaged square cut bore seal. Very hot brakes and rim.

 

[Sands210]

I don't know if it effects the scrapping/grinding noise, but it sounds like you need to replace/rebuild the brake caliper on the passenger side (I'd replace/rebuild both front calipers). Re-manufactured calipers are fairly inexpensive and just as good as new ones. I'd also inspect/replace and lubricate the caliper pins. You say the driver's side moves freely... there's normally some perceptible drag with disc brakes.

Regarding the grinding noise, last year I replaced the front pads and clips on my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer. Within a few days she reported a terrible grinding noise. I removed both front wheels and inspected the brakes. Everything looked fine. I put the wheels back on and took the truck around the block and heard no noise. I then did some heavy braking and heard what she was talking about. I removed the front wheels again and inspected the clearance on the clips. I found they were not quite centered on the rotor. Apparently, when the rotors got hot they expanded from heat and the clips scraped on the rotor. There was no indication of this on the clip or the rotor. I adjusted the clips and bent the small tabs on the clips over to make sure they couldn't move. It's been well over a year and no more grinding noise. Frankly it was hard to believe that the rotor dragging on the clip could produce such a loud, horrible noise, but that was the problem.

Are you referring to the slider pins on the brake calipers? If so, I actually grease those up with the grease that was provided with my break pads. The move freely without getting stuck. Also I've inspected the rotorsts,bearings and pads but everything thing seems to be in working order. I'm starting to suspect the noise is coming from something else. As I stated, it was making that noise before I did the brake job and afterwards. Do you think it has something to do with the pistons on the brake calipers? I'm also thinking it might have to do with the cv joints or axel it self. What do you think? Could the cv joint/ axel cause it to make that noise?

 

[Sands210]

As usual, great info from koda. OP, you replaced pads, rotors, and hub bearings but failed to mention doing a complete brake flush. As mentioned, since you're checking the caliper pins and pistons for binding or sticking anyway, open the bleeders one at a time and push the pistons all the way in to expel contaminants trapped behind the pistons BEFORE flushing, otherwise that crap could back flush through the ABS system causing bigger and expensive issues.If you find binding in the pistons it's probably best to replace with rebuilt calipers rather than using a rebuild kit that only contains a rubber boot and square piston seal. I replaced all four corners with black powder coated NAPA Eclipse semi loaded rebuilts that were locally available and have a lifetime warranty.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=brake caliper&isApplication=true&isInterchange=true&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh

First pic shows what remained AFTER a flush without opening the bleeders. May have contributed to a sticking piston.

Honestly no I did not do any type of bleeding whatsoever. As I stated it did this noise before and after the brake job. The caliper could be the coprite. I'm actually new to this and this is my first time doing the brake job on an explorer and I have never done any kind of bleeding of the brakes. How would I go about doing this? I have a lot of time today and tomorrow. If this does not solve the problem do you think purchasing the the calipers you suggested fix the issue? Of course if I'm going to do one caliper I might as well do the other. Well thanks for the information. You and koda2000 are much help. Thanks guys.

 

[koda2000]

Bad CV joints usually click on turns. You talk about CV joints and replacing inner & outer wheel bearings. Is you truck a 4x4? If so it uses a one-piece front wheel bearing/hub assembly. If it is not a 4x4 you don't have CV axles. Which is it?

As far as bleeding the brakes, brake fluid should be flushed completely with every brake job (or every 2 years) while it is not something that must be done, it's just best practice. Many will just push the pistons back in without doing anything with the brake fluid. Doing it this way is bad for the caliper seals and not changing the brake fluid lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid, promotes rust in the brake system and can produce brake fade.

Caliper pins can become notched with wear. When this is evidenced, they should be replaced.

When flushing the brake system, be very careful not to let the master cylinder run dry, because if you get air in the ABS system it is very hard to get it out (usually requiring special equipment, though there are some tricks the DIY'er can do to expel it).

 

[swshawaii]

Easy to follow video linked. Also check out FordTechMakuloco's excellent videos.



https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTechMakuloco/videos

 

[Sands210]

Bad CV joints usually click on turns. You talk about CV joints and replacing inner & outer wheel bearings. Is you truck a 4x4? If so it uses a one-piece front wheel bearing/hub assembly. If it is not a 4x4 you don't have CV axles. Which is it?

As far as bleeding the brakes, brake fluid should be flushed completely with every brake job (or every 2 years) while it is not something that must be done, it's just best practice. Many will just push the pistons back in without doing anything with the brake fluid. Doing it this way is bad for the caliper seals and not changing the brake fluid lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid, promotes rust in the brake system and can produce brake fade.

Caliper pins can become notched with wear. When this is evidenced, they should be replaced.

When flushing the brake system, be very careful not to let the master cylinder run dry, because if you get air in the ABS system it is very hard to get it out (usually requiring special equipment, though there are some tricks the DIY'er can do to expel it).

I definitely do not hear any clicking as I drive and my explorer is definitely not a 4x4 which it was though.thats exactly what I did is push the pistons back into place. This truck never had there brakes maintenance since it was new smh. I'm giving it life all over again.thanks for he input I'm going to the auto store right now and buy the fluid and extra stuff I need to do this. I will give you guys an update to see what happens. Thanks again

 

[koda2000]

I definitely do not hear any clicking as I drive and my explorer is definitely not a 4x4 which it was though.thats exactly what I did is push the pistons back into place. This truck never had there brakes maintenance since it was new smh. I'm giving it life all over again.thanks for he input I'm going to the auto store right now and buy the fluid and extra stuff I need to do this. I will give you guys an update to see what happens. Thanks again

If someone converted your truck from 4WD to 2WD, were the steering knuckles swapped for 2WD knuckles, or were the 4WD steering knuckles retained? The reason I ask is that if the 4WD steering knuckles were retained you have to keep the stub axles installed with the axle nut torqued to spec, or the hub assembly will come apart and the wheel will come off.

 

[Sands210]

If someone converted your truck from 4WD to 2WD, were the steering knuckles swapped for 2WD knuckles, or were the 4WD steering knuckles retained? The reason I ask is that if the 4WD steering knuckles were retained you have to keep the stub axles installed with the axle nut torqued to spec, or the hub assembly will come apart and the wheel will come off.

I just run the vin and this truck come factory 2wd. Also I checked the brake fluid and it's clear as ice. I just finished the passenger side beating and I noticed that when I tightened the wheel nut the wheel does not lock up any more. The wheel moves freely and the only noise I here is a slight scraping from the pads. I also checked the pistons and the slider bolts again and those move freely as they should. I did not noticed anything out of the ordinary. I'm going todo the driver side now after this. I just realized that should taken pictures but I will do with the driver side. The passenger rotor does not show any since of wear or grooves. I do have more brake dust then normal.

 

[Sands210]

Ok I took some pictures but have no idea how to post the in here. I have no knowledge of how to diagnose caliper pistons but on my driver side, only one piston moves way more then the other, is this normal? I don't think it is suppose to happen, right?

 

[koda2000]

In order to post pictures you either have to be an Elite Member ($20 year) or you can first post your photos to something like PhotoBucket, copy the image and paste it into your post,

No, both pistons should move with the same amount of force and equally as far. I will say if you only press one piston at a time it may cause the other piston to move, as they share the same fluid reservoir in the caliper. You saw the crap that can build up in the piston bore in swhawaii's photos. That crap is what makes your caliper not work smoothly.

 

[swshawaii]

FAQ: Posting/Editing Pictures... | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Se

 

[lobo411]

If you kept the old pads, you can measure the remaining pad to see if they were wearing evenly. IE, the passenger side inner and outer pads should be the same thickness. If one is worn down a lot more than the other, then you probably have a sticky caliper.

 

[Sands210]

If you kept the old pads, you can measure the remaining pad to see if they were wearing evenly. IE, the passenger side inner and outer pads should be the same thickness. If one is worn down a lot more than the other, then you probably have a sticky caliper.

I do have the old pads and there are even. I actually found out that the break caliper was the issue all along. I replaced both calipers with the eclipse calipers from napa so now they are feeling extremely smooth. Next, I'm going to do the rear more then likely tomorrow. I really appreciate all the input that you guys gave me. I don't know what I would have done without this forum. Thank you. I also ordered a new front suspension kit and 4 brand new racho 5000x's so I'm looking forward to putting all that on my truck. I actually have photos of before and afters on the explorers of San Antonio in facebook. I also have my YouTube account if you guys want to follow me. The sound for some reason sounds real ugly. I don't know what iMovie did with my video. Anyway, thanks again guys keep EXPLORERing

 

[swshawaii]

I actually found out that the break caliper was the issue all along. I replaced both calipers with the eclipse calipers from napa so now they are feeling extremely smooth. Next, I'm going to do the rear more then likely tomorrow. I really appreciate all the input that you guys gave me. I don't know what I would have done without this forum. Thank you.

Tremendous. Applaud you for your willingness to learn and do things yourself.
Keep us posted on your other projects and thanks for the follow ups. Congrats!

 

[Sands210]

Tremendous. Applaud you for your willingness to learn and do things yourself.
Keep us posted on your other projects and thanks for the follow ups. Congrats!

Thank you very much I love this truck but unfortunately the previous owners did not care at all about this baby so I'm glad I fell into my hands. I have plenty of more updates for this truck to come just follow my YouTube account. Thank you to everyone who was involve with helping me. Keep on explorering.