2000 Explorer SOHC dead - rebuild? replace?

[gmoore]

So after a nice long drive back from the beach at night, the next morning my car started to a horrendous clanking sound from the bottom of the engine. When I went to start again, the power was gone and it whimpered to it's demise.

I got the car to a mechanic, and he said there is O compression on one side, and very low on the other. He said he thinks the whole engine needs to be replaced. ( there was no water and very very low oil in the car. which would be my mistake, but no indicators told me it was so low. and that mistake is a whole nother forum for dingbats like me)

My question is can I have this engine rebuilt or is it better to find a used one with lower miles from the junkyard?

Also, can a 2002 SOHC fit in a 2000 ford explorer xlt?

What is the best way to get my car running good for a cheap price. The cost of a "new" engine from Ford is not worth it, but if I could rebuild or replace engine for a good price then I think that I should do it.

Thanks!

 

[stilbo]

I bought a used 2003 4.0 SOHC engine with 62,000 on it from a very reputable salvage yard (Veldman's, South Bend, IN) for $600. I paid another $300 for R&R the engines.

Figure $300 R&R, and possibly more than $1200 in parts and labor to rebuild your engine if it is even rebuildable. Even a fresh factory short block is dicey due to the difficulty in properly setting up the timing chains and cams. Plus I'd REALLY have to trust the rebuilder.

My bet would be on a salvage swap.

I'd be interested to know if you snapped and dropped a valve and punched out a piston. That was the failure on the aformentioned engine.

Good luck

rds

 

[stilbo]

re: 2002 VS 2000 differences....

The engine is the same but you would have to swap out intakes and a good deal of other sensor stuff, etc.

I have an 2002 Explorer and I've worked on a friend's '02 Sport Trac and there are differences between the two.....

If you are interested in a newer engine, a later model Sport Trac donor might be a good candidate as these are very close to your 2000.

 

[2000StreetRod]

No water & low oil

No water results in overheating. That coupled with low oil and pressure results in bearings/journals, cylinders/piston skirts/rings, valves/guides damage. I agree with the mechanic that a complete rebuild (including reground crankshaft, camshaft and cylinder bore) is probably needed. A remanufactured long block ($2,000) would be less expensive and better quality than rebuilding your existing engine locally.

Your least expensive solution is an engine from a low mileage wrecked vehicle. I would want to see the engine in the donor vehicle (to confirm odometer reading) and hear it run before buying. Some salvage engine suppliers may provide a warranty but it may not cover the cost of removal and installation of an engine if defective.

 

[stilbo]

I agree with streetrod in that if money is no problem, a long block is the number one way to go.

How much you want to invest in the vehicle will be your final decision on this.

I usually advise a salvage engine on vehicles older than five years due to the lower resale value associated with said vehicles and the probability that the owner will likely sell or trade it within a few years.

I work with a large natural gas distribution and utility company fleet department and we started using Jasper Engines again two years ago. We stopped using them about fifteen years ago as quality was lacking in a big way but they have really cleaned up their act. We have installed over thirty of their engines in the last two years and some of these engines already have over forty thousand trouble free miles on them.

Motorcraft rebuilt engines are another very good option.

Talk to a reputable local mechanic with references YOU trust and have them refer you to a salvage yard that THEY trust. I agree that it's best to see the engine in the salvage vehicle to verify mileage and running condition but this is not always possible. Contaminated fuel, no fuel, no battery, contaminated oil, cylinder corrosion etc. are possibilities in an engine that has been out in the yard with the hood open or missing. An engine that is immediately removed from a wrecked vehicle and stored on a shelf will be less prone to corrosion or water/dirt issues than one that has been sitting in the yard.

Side Note: I yanked a 390 out of a bone yard '67 Thunderbird (that had been sitting for a few months without the carb on it) back in 1970 to replace the blown 390 in my '67 Fairlane GTA S-Code. When I parked the shop truck in my driveway a dozen mice bailed out of the intake manifold...... My macho biker buddy ran away screaming....

I can go on and on about high G-forces from frontal impact collisions that can dislodge or misalign internal components but suffice to say that there is always a gamble even with brand new off the lot, factory fresh cars....

I have been able to see an engine on the shelf then go out in the yard to look at the donor vehicle to verify mileage and condition. If the thing is full of Pampers and looks like it was never cleaned in it's lifetime, it's very possible that the oil was seldom checked or even changed. If the front bumper is pushed into the windshield I may decide against using that engine.

Bottom line will be how much $ you want to throw at it.

rds

 

[gmoore]

possible solution

so I found a salvage yard that has a rebuilt 2003 explorer engine. he said it would take a couple modifications that he will do to have it work in the 2000. this engine was from a wrecked car and he has them "rebuilt" with a partner that rebuilds. would give me a 6 month warranty and knocked it down from $900 to $800 cash for the engine.

my mechanic at the corner who I trust will put it in for a good neighbor price.

does this 2003 rebuilt in the 2000 sound like a solid solution and a good deal?

cheapest route i've found so far.

 

[2000StreetRod]

timing chains?

Does the "rebuild" include replacement of the timing chain components? If so, it sounds like a very fair deal to me. If not, realize that at any time in the future you could be looking at another $1500 or more bill to replace timing chain cassettes, chains, guides and tensioners.

 

[gmoore]

not sure if it include's replacement of the timing chain components... I assume it would be a complete rebuild with warranty. but I will call and ask that when they open in the morning.

does a "rebuilt engine" normally include that ?

Also, I did read that some sensors and stuff might be a bit more work for the 2003 to the 2000 but if the mechanic say's he good with that I guess he is good with that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I wouldn't assume anything

The local rebuild may only include whatever the mechanic thinks is necessary to make the engine last 6 months. Do a Google search or eBay search on remanufactured engines and see what's specified for the SOHC. Make a list and compare that to what's specified (if anything) for your local rebuild. Then you'll realize why there is a $2,000 difference in the charge. I'm not saying the local rebuild isn't worth the money. I just want you to realize what you're getting and the risk you are assuming.

 

[gmoore]

so your saying it could be a half ass rebuild ? how would I know what was really done. I would think that if he rebuilds it he rebuilds it. but as you said, assume nothing. but there has to be a way to know how rebuilt it is. guess i'll be calling in the morning with more questions before I buy. thanks for the tips !