2001 4.0L SOHC rear tension replacement, paranoid version

[Mebob2001]

I accully work for GM, ill rip into any GM timing set, which out a second though, but this cluster they have on thes engines kinda made me wonder, i did buy a junkyard engine i am building for fun, got the heads off, new main and rod bearings, all new timing set, going to put some lumpy ass cam's in it, but when i took apart that engines and set it to DTC1 and i removed the tensioners i noticed the cams didn't move, even when i used my impact to remove the cam sprockets they stayed in place.
But i jumped into this last night saying screw it im eathor bending valves or getting er done, i was sick of the rattle on start up, so ANYONE can do this job with some patience and a lil prep work.
someone has all ready posted how to replace the chains and was to access thes chains. i can go through it if anyone wants.
But this post is basicly showing how i made sure the came would NOT move and how to see the tension on the chains for a few pennies.


And turns out i can not post pictures on my post's yet hahaha
put engine at TDC 1 on the passengers side take a 12 inch tie wrap and be VERY careful not to drop it down the engine or have fun pulling it out, and wrap it under the guide bolt, over around the OUTSIDE the of guide above the tensions, then wrap it aroudn the ouside of the guide on the otherside and tighten it, it does not need to be super tight remember this is old plastic it can break, so just get it snug, then put 2 through holes on the sprocket and over top on the chains. i did take a picture of this set up if anyone neds i can email to them.
i did the samething on the drivers side with the tie wraps, i just removed the tensioners and put the new ones in and torqued to specs.

Heres the redneck set up i used to make sure they did not move.

http://s1309.beta.photobucket.com/user/mebob2001/media/IMG043_zps40faf24f.jpg.html

 

[2000StreetRod]

I don't understand

It is not necessary to keep the camshaft from moving - or even have the #1 piston at TDC - to replace the rear hydraulic/spring tensioner. See Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

 

[Mebob2001]

It is not necessary to keep the camshaft from moving - or even have the #1 piston at TDC - to replace the rear hydraulic/spring tensioner. See Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement

The point behind it man it for people who dont normaly turn wrenchs can do it this way as extra insurance and not worry about it coming out of time.
You are right it is not needed to do this.

Fun part happens thursday when i remove the front cover and replace the guide's and tensioner on the crank to jackshaft tensioner and guide, and mabey remove the oil pan's to replace the balance shaft tensioner.