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2001 explorer starts and dies. Need help please




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Macgiobuin ill try that.. maybe its sticking when its cold? Left it alone for a day made my gf take it to work just to see. In the morning it didnt wanna stay started as usual but she held the gas peddle down to 2000 rpms for the time it took to smoke a cigarette. Stayed running on its own after that (idling very low though) 8 hours later when she got off work it started right up no issues. Also its still not thrown a code it never did i just had autozone check to see if there was any stored in the history (that happened on my last car) so its only acting up when it sits overnight. Koda2000 i got 2 bottles of Heet to see if maybe there is some water in there. That would sorta explain why it run fine after getting warm

Oh yeah and all those parts i replaced were not just now lol that was since i bought it i was just saying that none of those parts are more than 1 1/2 years old
 






OP, You can easily remove the IAC and clean it with brake/parts cleaner and an old tooth brush. Couldn't hurt. I've even bought a new replacement IAC off eBay for around $20 (Chinese made, but has worked fine for the past 2 years +), but a bad IAC should throw a code. You keep talking about not finding any historical codes, but at the same time you mention disconnecting the battery. If you had a historical codes (or current codes) disconnecting the battery would clear them.
 






yeah ill clean that next. Well either way ive started it and ran it and all that multiple times since the last time i unhooked the battery which i did one time days ago and i had it hooked up to a code reader yesterday. Nothing at all came up. Also i didnt know that cleared historical codes it didn't on my 08 impala
 






So my gf noticed today now that its actually pretty warm outside that the temp gauge isnt working. I just replaced the thermostat and the whole upper and lower housing and those 2 sensors. But i ordered it online and when it got here it only had one sensor i had to go pick one up from the store. If it was bad or the wrong sensor (maybe they gave me the same one i already had idk the difference) do you think that might affect why its not starting correctly when its really cold? Maybe the computer isnt being told just how cold it is on startup. Just a thought
 






As I understand it, the sensor that feeds the Temp Gauge does not have anything to do with sending a signal to the PCM to regulate fuel/air mixture. However, the other sensor (ECT) does send a signal to the PCM.

I will volunteer this info on my '98 SOHC...I brought it up from AZ about 5 yrs ago and it seems it's always had similar issues to some degree when the temp falls below +10 degrees or so. Always joked that it's a desert truck and just can't handle the rigors of our Northern Plains cold. It runs flawlessly, otherwise. Since I've owned it, I've replaced the IAC, plugs, wires, t-stat housing w/Motorcraft sensors, cleaned the MAF, changed out the intake manifold gaskets, pcv/hoses, fuel filter. So, with it being -20 degrees Sunday morning, I went out to start the truck after it sat overnight and, not surprisingly, it behaved much like you describe. It started and stalled immediately (I've come to expect that on very cold days). Started it right back up and the idle would surge to maybe 1800 rpms...then fall to where it wanted to stall had I not feathered the throttle back up to 1500 or so rpms. I did this for several cycles over the next 30-45 seconds and finally, out of curiosity, just let it stall. Waited about a minute and started it back up. Ran perfectly fine from then on. Today, it's in the low +30's and, after sitting for about 24 hrs, it started right up and idled perfectly as usual. So...who knows?
 






XLTrunner. Are you also driving my truck? Haha literally same thing. She said it started up no issue this morning. Have you tried reving it up at start up when its cold? When i do that for a minute or 2 it stays running. It makes no sense man. It didnt do this last winter either
 






There are 2 engine temperature sensors on your car. One works the dashboard gauge and it has one wire attached to it and it is located on or near the thermostat housing. The other sends a signal to the PCM so that the PCM sends the proper mix of fuel and air to the cylinders; it has 2 wires attached to it and it is located elsewhere on the block or head. If the second one is bad it will affect how the engine runs by setting the air and fuel mixture.
 






macgiobuin. Thats exactly what i was thinkin but both i have 2 IN the lower thermostat housing. And the bad one is the one that runs the gauge so unless thats messing with something. But now that its been warmer the last couple days there has not been a single issue with the truck
 






Saturday my gf jumped someones vehicle (no one else would do it cuz it has a computer chip i have no idea) still ran fine.
Surprised this "mystery" chip wasn't addressed from the OP. Is it installed in the vehicle with stalling issues?

If so, can you take a pic of it installed in the ECU? Many, if not most are known for causing running problems.

Performance chip location | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Performance chips - Do they really give you 20 HP? | eBay
 






But now that its been warmer the last couple days there has not been a single issue with the truck

Glad to hear yours is running fine with the warmer temps we're having. I just wanted to share my latest experience with my '98 today. As you know, we're back in the mid-30's again today and, after my truck sat outside for at least the past 24 hrs, I started it up to run an errand. It started fine...but, the rpm's climbed to nearly 2000 and just stayed there. I kicked the throttle a couple times hoping it would cause it to drop...but, no. I jumped out and quickly removed the upper intake plastic cover and rapped the IAC with my socket wrench. It immediately dropped the rpm's to normal levels. Hmmmm...I may have found my problem...and, perhaps yours. I replaced my IAC about 2 yrs (and 20K miles) ago with a Hitachi ABV0052 from Rockauto...who describes it as the original OE supplied part. I'm now wondering if our drastic changes in temps along with dampness that we had just prior to our latest cold snap caused moisture to enter the IAC and the little piston inside is sticking? Think I'll try cleaning it before I run out and spend good money on a replacement.
 






Sorry for the delayed response i never got a notification and my truck has been perfectly fine lately with the warm weather but now we've had a few days of cold and the last 2 days have been below 0. Ran perfect all the way up till the temp dropped below 0. Can still get it to run if i keep it revved up for awhile (sometimes close to 10mins). XLT mine has always reved up to around 2000 on cold startup regardless of weather but always drops down after a minute or if hit the gas for a second. Even when i first replaced the IAC (new from orielly auto parts idk the brand) we did try Heet and keeping the tank full when its cold. That did nothing. Did you give your IAC a clean? I'm gonna try that before it warms up again and see if it helps
 






I went to CarQuest and bought a new IAC gasket this past Monday...but, didn't remove the valve for inspection before temps dropped below zero again (btw...it started and idled normally on Monday with mild temps). However, truck has been sitting outside and not started since Tuesday morning (just before the arctic air arrived, again). Went to start it this morning and it fired up and died immediately first two attempts. Third/fourth attempts the revs were surging up (maybe 1800 rpms) and down and stalled each time within 10 secs. Fifth try it acted pretty normal with only mild idle fluctuations for a minute or so while mostly holding at around 1200 rpm until it warmed up some. Right now, I'm not sure WTF is the issue...other than it just doesn't like this extreme cold. Like yours, I'm sure it will start just fine once the weather moderates.
 






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