fjm
Member
- Joined
- June 7, 2008
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Orland Park IL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1996 XLT
Sorry, couldn’t get back sooner. Had to jack up a sagging corner of my house.
My Mountaineer is now fixed. In my posts I said there was no crank, no nothing, while my dash check engine, battery, check gas gauge, and brake light were always on; also had full power to radio, blower, wipers, etc., and the anti-theft light blinked erratically.
It was not the obvious, like a fuse, short, relay, starter (though I pulled it and found it was pretty beat up and the exposed lead from the motor field wiring fell apart when I touched it, so I replaced it). Also, not the column ignition switch, key lock cylinder or bad keys, nor anything to do with the PATS.
Some of your replies led me to think about the key mechanism and actuator, and I found You Tube videos that addressed it. So I took a chance and stripped down my steering column, and BINGO. Not that difficult after all. Turns out the actuator pin came out and left the slide rod that connects with the ignition switch in the start mode, so the power was always on.
I enjoy doing this stuff myself, and with people willing to help on this site, it’s a lot easier.
Thanks to all.
My Mountaineer is now fixed. In my posts I said there was no crank, no nothing, while my dash check engine, battery, check gas gauge, and brake light were always on; also had full power to radio, blower, wipers, etc., and the anti-theft light blinked erratically.
It was not the obvious, like a fuse, short, relay, starter (though I pulled it and found it was pretty beat up and the exposed lead from the motor field wiring fell apart when I touched it, so I replaced it). Also, not the column ignition switch, key lock cylinder or bad keys, nor anything to do with the PATS.
Some of your replies led me to think about the key mechanism and actuator, and I found You Tube videos that addressed it. So I took a chance and stripped down my steering column, and BINGO. Not that difficult after all. Turns out the actuator pin came out and left the slide rod that connects with the ignition switch in the start mode, so the power was always on.
I enjoy doing this stuff myself, and with people willing to help on this site, it’s a lot easier.
Thanks to all.
