2002 Explorer 4 x 4 electrical switches don't work

[Pam U]

Just discovered that my 4 x 4 electrical switches don't work. Having other electrical problems in the same area. Bell rings when keys are in ignition all the time, radio turns off when keys are removed, driver door lock does not work when ignition is off. In the past my radio would stay on after removing key, which I like, and I could lock the doors upon exiting car with the driver side door lock. Seems like it might all be tied together.

 

[mbrando1994]

A problem notorious with some of these models is the wiring harness in the door has wires that are just slightly too short, which makes them stretch over time and either untwist or snap altogether. What you need to do is locate the grommet that runs between the driver door and the body of the truck (its black). Use anything (preferably trim removal tools) to pry the door side out. You may need to remove the entire plastic door panel to gain better access of these wires. Your goal is to find one or more wires that are broken or frayed. Tape frayed wires and splice in new wire to connect broken ones.

You can just reconnect broken wires but again, they are too short, so expect it to reoccur in the future. If this isn't the problem, check the wiring running to the 4x4 buttons, radio, etc. Get ahold of some diagrams in a repair manual and trace your problems to a common point. I would guess some of the wires in the harness in the door could cause some of these symptoms, not sure about the 4x4 though. That could also be a separate issue.

 

[Pam U]

Thank you

Thank you mbrando1994

I read about that harness problem a while back but never did anything about it and then forgot. lol That certainly sounds like it could be it. At one point it worked again for a very short time, so that all makes sense.

Regarding the 4 x 4 buttons, my son-in-law says it is probably the module and is very expensive. Grrr. Never want to hear that.

Will take care of the wiring problem and let you know if it works.
Thanks again.

 

[rocco123]

Just wanted to comment on the statement that the wires at door hinge being too short. After bending a 12 gauge wire in half every time the door opens it's easy to fatigue the wire. If they staggered the point that the wires go into the door they would be slightly twisting the harness instead of bending it. The harness would last a hell of a lot longer. Some other car manufactures realize this and stagger. I've repaired mine and a few other ford's due to this design flaw.

 

[fireball 440]

Before panicking about any modules, first check the fuses.

 

[rocco123]

Btw... module was around 170 bucks at silver state ford website. At least that what it was when I replaced mine 6 years ago

 

[Pam U]

Thank you

Thank you for the comments.
My husband is gonna work on the wires. Seems to be a fairly easy fix.
Regarding the module, we will definitely check the fuses first. I mentioned that to him before I started asking questions, but he's an invalid and not quick to jump on things.
And he just said I should check to find out where the fuses are. Can someone please tell me that or do I need to research that too? We didn't get a manual with the car,but I know I can get one online.
Thanks again to all my great helpers.

 

[rocco123]

Search the forum for 4x4 control. Hard to do on my phone. There are posts on the fuses and I recall an issue of wiring chafing / shorting by oil filter if you have a 4.6 liter engine.

 

[Pam U]

Thank you Rocco123. I found where the fuses are. That's step one. Leaving for a while but will get back here when I come home.

 

[Pam U]

Thank you so much for this info. My son-in-law dove right into it and had it fixed in about an hour. I love this forum. So informative.

 

[Pam U]

Thank you for the fuse info. As it turns out, it's not the fuses, so our next step will be to replace the module. I already found a video on how to change it. Now I just need to find a good source for an inexpensive one. One correction to what I just said. One of the fuses was blown, but when we replaced it, still didn't work. Therefore, moving to the next more expensive step.

 

[rocco123]

Did you look into chafed wires? Electric 4x4 motor could be hung up as well. That's on transfer case. Which fuse was blown. I can see where it leads to by looking at schematic.

 

[Pam U]

It was either 17 or 18. He pulled them both out at the same time and didn't pay attention. I'll tell him about the other things you said. Thanks again.

 

[rocco123]

I'll have a look at schematic tonight.

 

[rocco123]

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270006&highlight=Fuse+17

Getting back to you Pam. Fuse 17 and 18 are both 20 amp and both lead directly to the four wheel drive control module. I get my info from 2002 factory explorer wiring manual. You can also do a search on this site for fuse 17 and look for what people have come across when blowing their fuse. When my module went bad I didn't blow a fuse. Personally I would first rule out a short circuit and seized motor on transfer case that engages 4 wheel drive. This module is in dash at glove box. If you end up needing a module be sure you check that part number either matches or is a replacement for original. In link above someone got theirs on ebay. Other wires on control module run directly to motor on transfer case.

 

[rocco123]

Also, what did you find when looking at the door hinge wiring? Radio staying on and door lock issues I would definately have a look there

 

[rocco123]

Also, f1 17 (fuse 17) is at batt junction box. F2 17 (fuse 17 also) is in central junction box under driver side dash.

 

[Pam U]

Thank you. We will check that out and see what we can find before buying the module.

 

[Pam U]

My son-in-law fixed it in about 45 mins. Thank you so much for the info. So nice to have those things working again.

 

[rocco123]

Which problems were fixed and how? Sharing what the fix is helps others.