2002 Mountaineer AWD 4.6 w/ Open Rear???

[MSM0075]

I wouldn't necessarily be afraid of one from a salvage yard. They usually offer some warranty. Problems with the T-cases are rare so if you find one out of a low mileage vehicle it would probably be fine.

The only thing I can think of why mine took a dump is beacuse my tires aren't even all around. We bought the truck with 33k miles on it and its always was choppy around turns, its worse now of corse. If this is the case its easy for someone to do the same thing with the junkyard one.

Thats why I'm affraid.

I'm going to start by buying four new tires. Any reccomendations? Thinking of Good Year Forterra's Since the factory BFG's are discontinued..but still avalable. Once I have new tires all around and a nice wheel alignment to match. I'm going to reconnect the driveshaft and test it out.

Your saying add the friction mod to it now with the driveshaft off?

 

[rrgone]

The only thing I can think of why mine took a dump is beacuse my tires aren't even all around. We bought the truck with 33k miles on it and its always was choppy around turns, its worse now of corse. If this is the case its easy for someone to do the same thing with the junkyard one.

Thats why I'm affraid.

I thought that mismatched tires had already been ruled out earlier in this thread! Heck, don't do anything until you get 4 new matched tires on there. Here's the first two things the WSM says to check out in the diagnostic for AWD issues:

MAKE SURE that all tires
and wheels are the same size
and that the inflation
pressures are correct.

CHECK tire tread wear to see
if there is more than 0.15 mm
(0.06 in) difference in tread
wear between front and rear.
INTERCHANGE one front
wheel and one rear wheel.
Road test again.​

Get new tires on it. Maybe you haven't damaged the t-case yet.

That's not necessarily true that a vehicle in salvage has a damaged transfer case. Mose people wouldn't be driving it if it were damaged, and most go to salvage from being in a bad wreck. I think it unlikely that both of those things would happen at the same time. Of course it is possible to get a bad one, but a decent yard would exchange it.

 

[jrford]

hard time finding just the clutch. A year or two ago i thought they ran about $400.

junkyard might be the cheapest, mounty's came with 4410's, might find one with low miles.

Ford direct is about $1100 from the looks of it
you could call around and get a quote on a rebuild with a viscous.
I found a link to CobraTransmission dot com they listed a kit but no price.

I picked up Michelin LTX A/T2 about $200 each.

 

[MSM0075]

So Instead of starting a new thread I'll bring this one back since its the same topic.

Like I mentioned in this post I droped my rear diff carrier, removed the main differential by removing the two end peices where the carrier bearings are. Found out I do not have Limited slip, Re-installed to proper torque. NOW I don't know if this is beacuse of what I did in there or not, But I am noticing a hum noise comming from the rear of the vehicle. It goes by speed only, Its noticable around 30mph on up. It dosn't scream or anything its just an annoying hum that only slightly increases with speed. The sound does not change when I give it gas or back off the gas. ONLY by speed. I just hope I did not screw up anything inside....I'm just noticing this noise now so....I've heard that the 3rd gens have had issues with the rear differentials????

Any input would be great. I'm really worried about this beacuse I finally figured out my AWD issues and I'm taking care of that. It just seems like I'll have even more work to do now with this noise from the rear.

 

[stevemccann180]

I have a similar problem with my 02 Explorer. Pulled fuses to the 4X4 module and the problem went away. No 4X4 though. There is an electronic problem somewhere. I will keep you posted on my findings.