2002 Mountianeer differential problems?

[firerose617]

Hi - I hope someone can steer me in the right direction. First off, I'm a female, so hopefully what I describe makes sense

I have a 2002 Mountaineer RWD - it has been a great car - until now. It all started with what I was told is called chattering - occasionally it would bind going around corners and up slight inclines. I took it to my mechanic, but of course then it wouldn't do it. Then came the howl under load. It also "feels" like it's in 4WD, but I don't have 4WD.

I took it to the Ford dealer - they changed the differential fluid and added the modifier - that didn't fix the issue. After taking it to the dealer, I now have another problem...clunking underneath the car. It feels and sounds like I'm driving a lumber truck no suspension.

My mechanic doesn't do rear ends - and being a woman, I'm afraid I'm going to get taken for a ride anywhere I go. I'm willing to get it fixed, but I don't want to ripped off.

 

[66stingray]

Hello,

This is my first post but is a topic i am very familiar with. First off i too have an 02 mountaineer and need to mention that all Mountaineer's came with full time all wheel drive that couldnt be disabled.

Unfortunately the rear ends of these suvs ar the weakest point. They were made with aluminum casings and the bearings typically get chewed up. If you are hearing a howling noise its most likely the rear wheel bearings. You didnt mention how many miles are on the truck and if the rear wheel bearings were ever replaced. The binding is a symptom of the clutch packs in the rear diff needing attention. The clunking could be the transmission, hard to say without getting a better idea of where it's coming from.

I hate to say it, but this will cost you money wherever you go. The Ford dealer will probably be the most expensive. That is why I refused to get ripped by dealers and did most of the work myself. I have to replace the front bearings this weekend again for the second time, only lasted 2 years since i bought cheap $120 hub assemblies.

Either way I'll post some prices of what you will likely be quoted by mechanics for the cost of parts plus labor:

Rear wheel bearings both installed - $650 on up
Complete rear differential overhaul with new clutch packs, differential bearings, gears etc...-likely about $2,500
Front wheel hubs/bearing assemblies $800 on up.
Rebuilt transmission - $2,500-3,000.

Hope this helped. Best solution, get a Haynes manual, surf the web and sites like this and do the work yourself and tell the dealers to go f themselves.

 

[Explorer0204]

Hello,

This is my first post but is a topic i am very familiar with. First off i too have an 02 mountaineer and need to mention that all Mountaineer's came with full time all wheel drive that couldnt be disabled.

Unfortunately the rear ends of these suvs ar the weakest point. They were made with aluminum casings and the bearings typically get chewed up. If you are hearing a howling noise its most likely the rear wheel bearings. You didnt mention how many miles are on the truck and if the rear wheel bearings were ever replaced. The binding is a symptom of the clutch packs in the rear diff needing attention. The clunking could be the transmission, hard to say without getting a better idea of where it's coming from.

I hate to say it, but this will cost you money wherever you go. The Ford dealer will probably be the most expensive. That is why I refused to get ripped by dealers and did most of the work myself. I have to replace the front bearings this weekend again for the second time, only lasted 2 years since i bought cheap $120 hub assemblies.

Either way I'll post some prices of what you will likely be quoted by mechanics:

Rear wheel bearings both installed - $650 on up
Complete rear end overhaul with new clutch packs, differential bearings, gears etc...-likely about $2,500
Front wheel hubs/bearing assemblies $800 on up.
Rebuilt transmission - $2,500-3,000.

Hope this helped. Best solution, get a Haynes manual, surf the web and do the work yourself and tell the dealers to go f themselves.

He's right..

That being said I am fairly confident you don't have all these problems... Could be one of them though for sure. Wish I could help more.

You could opt to have a mechanic put in an open differential from a junkyard (I assume you have limited slip based on your post) but you have to make sure the gear ratio is right for your vehicle.. Could be a bit hard to find but maybe a good shop could find one for you.

This would eliminate the problems with the limited slip mechanism but, as with any used part it could develop problems of its own.. Hard to say really

 

[firerose617]

Thanks for the replies. I have 107,000 miles on the car, and according to the papers, it's RWD. I had the wheel bearings replaced because it was howling when I let off the gas. It fixed that problem. The transmission seems to be fine, no slipping, etc.

You know how sometimes you go to the grocery store and you get a nice new cart and it pushes really smooth, but sometimes you get a cruddy one and it has to work harder to roll? That's how it feels when I drive it...it's working harder than it should, like its in 4wd.

I'm going to try and find somewhere to are it next week, hopefully they won't try and rip me off. Thank you for the prices, at least I have an idea of what to expect.

I don't even know how to change the oil, so fixing this myself is not an option.

 

[Explorer0204]

Thanks for the replies. I have 107,000 miles on the car, and according to the papers, it's RWD. I had the wheel bearings replaced because it was howling when I let off the gas. It fixed that problem. The transmission seems to be fine, no slipping, etc.

You know how sometimes you go to the grocery store and you get a nice new cart and it pushes really smooth, but sometimes you get a cruddy one and it has to work harder to roll? That's how it feels when I drive it...it's working harder than it should, like its in 4wd.

I'm going to try and find somewhere to are it next week, hopefully they won't try and rip me off. Thank you for the prices, at least I have an idea of what to expect.

I don't even know how to change the oil, so fixing this myself is not an option.

Never too late to learn!!


That is a bit of a better description of the problem you are having now. Is your engine light on???? It kinda sounds to me like you are having a power issue not a transmission or anything else related issue.

Let me ask you this, when you accelerate the vehicle feels sluggish??? If you accelerate like 70% throttle or more does it still feel crappy and sluggish or does it accelerate fine? Or.....does it hesitate and jerk up to speed but the power is fine..??

It's hard to diagnose this kinda stuff without being in the vehicle to hear, see, and drive it.

 

[firerose617]

Sorry, but learning how to change oil doesn't sound fun to me

It doesn't jerk or hesitate, accelerates fine. It feels like something is keeping it from moving smoothly, almost like a brake or something is holding it back...but that has already been checked.

I know it's hard for anybody to guess what it might be, almost as hard for me to describe it.

 

[66stingray]

Firerose. Your papers are wrong. All 3 rd generation mountaineers like yours are full time 4 wheel drive. Glad you got the bearings fixed, but what happened to the clunking? Did that get fixed as well with the new bearings? Just curious, what did they charge you? Was it the front or rear bearings? What happened to the binding sensation? Did that go away too?

 

[firerose617]

Firerose. Your papers are wrong. All 3 rd generation mountaineers like yours are full time 4 wheel drive. Glad you got the bearings fixed, but what happened to the clunking? Did that get fixed as well with the new bearings? Just curious, what did they charge you? Was it the front or rear bearings? What happened to the binding sensation? Did that go away too?

The original stickers says 2two wheel drive, build date 05/02. In the standard equipment, one of the things it says is 2nd generation dual airbags. Maybe mine isn't a 3rd generation?

This clunking is different that what was happening with the wheel bearings. This sounds like there is no suspension under the car. The 2 wheel bearings were $550. Binding seems to still be there, but I'm in minnesota and because of all the ice and snow on the road, it's had to tell.

 

[66stingray]

The clunking symptom and feeling like there is no suspension under the car could be related to your strut assembly. I had a spring break on me and would "clunk" everytime i went over a bump. I would check the condition of your springs and see if there are any obvious visible breaks.

If your going to take it to a shop i would have them show you what they find. As far as the binding that could be different things, could be the clutch packs. I would get it diagnosed and then figure out the cheapest solution from there.

2nd generation airbags refer to the airbag design not the vehicle.

 

[firerose617]

Well, I I finally know whats going on with my car. The differential needs to be rebuilt, the left sway bar link is broken, the lower ball joints are worn, one of the upper ball joints is torn and the right tie rod is shot.

Also confirmed my car is RWD - maybe there weren't many 2002 models made in RWD?