2004 Explorer Electrical Issue

[cjsmith8766]

Hey Guys,
long time lurker, first time poster.

I am having an issue with my 04 Explorer.

A little history if I may (sorry if this gets long). The truck has been parked for about 2 years, transmission went in it (servo bores) and last week I finally bit the bullet and put her in the shop for a full rebuild.

When the truck arrived at the shop the battery was dead (no shocker there since it had been parked for so long) the shop jumped the truck and began test driving it, I received a call from the shop stating the gauges were all "bouncing" from left to right, power door locks, windows, radio etc. were inoperable. After speaking with the service manager we concluded that this was probably due to low voltage from the battery, which was now venting acid and wouldn't hold a charge. All fine and good I instructed the tech to go ahead with the repair and replace the battery.

Fast forward to yesterday when I pick the truck up the electrical issue still exists even with the new battery. please note the truck has no drivability issues other than the "delayed accessories" didn't seem to want to work (would come on intermittently but with no identifiable pattern) also my Viper remote start didn't work (will still lock and unlock the doors just wont start the vehicle), quick note on the viper system, if I hit the remote start button the car goes through all the motions as if its going to start (relays click, lights flash etc) but wont actually turn the vehicle over, that is until I insert the key into the ignition (not turn the key) then the truck will start right up.

Hopped on the forum when I got her home and read about fuse 17, the sun visor clip issues etc.. so I went out and began checking all the fuses and took a peek at my sun visor clips which are definitely cracked and broken. After pulling all the fuses only 1 had popped fuse #18 in the under hood fuse panel, PCM with two-speed 4x4 clutch.

Replaced fuse and now everything seems to be working (for the moment) aside from my remote start (same as before will still run the truck through the motions and if I insert the key will start) and my radio (which is an aftermarket pioneer deck).

I have been sifting and searching through threads and have certainly done some good due diligence, hoping you guys can light a spark in one direction or another. Electrical is definitely not my thing but I have been in the automotive industry all my life and rebuild motors in my spare time, so I am familiar with vehicle functions and am not afraid to tear in a bit.

If you made it this far thank you for bearing with me. Let me know what you guys think!

(edit) I have noticed a small amount of acid venting from the new battery.. seems like it is over charging ever so slightly.. maybe this is another piece of the puzzle. I have wiped it down and will continue to monitor it to see if this is a consistent issue now that I have power to a majority of my accessories.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

Hey Guys,
if I hit the remote start button the car goes through all the motions as if its going to start (relays click, lights flash etc) but wont actually turn the vehicle over, that is until I insert the key into the ignition (not turn the key) then the truck will start right up.

this sounds like the immobilizer is not working anymore, depending on what type of immobilizer (for the PATS) you have it might need to be reprogrammed again (it probably got wiped out in the memory) or a fuse powering it is busted.


the purpose of the immobilizer is to allow the remote starter to start the car by sending a signal to the PATS as if they key was there (some called it a PATS bypass module)

 

[cjsmith8766]

Thanks for the quick response sir.

Quick update as I am now driving the truck to work... There definately seems to be an overcharging issue here. When at idle the truck is fine aside from the radio and now my airbag light is on, when I accelerate the battery light pops on the gauge goes up to 3/4 then all gauges shut down (air bag light stays on), power options become inoperable when I come to a stop everything kicks back on.

Thanks again for any input

 

[cjsmith8766]

Just drove the truck on lunch.. I am beginning to believe I have a couple different issues going on here (though the fact that they are happening all at once is curious, but weirder things have happened I suppose)..

After some research on the immobilizer as suggested above I am really liking it as the cause of the viper issue, my radio is tied into the viper system so I believe those 2 things are related. I am going to tear into the dash and check all my connections and fuses this weekend.

Now my main issue is the over charging and I believe this is going to end up being my voltage regulator, what do you guys think?

When the power options and cluster die out I can turn on my front/rear AC, high beams, and dome lights (creating draw on the battery) and things will immediately go back to normal as soon as I cut these items off the battery gauge shoots up and my cluster/power options become inoperable once more.

Anyone know of a definitive way to test the regulator short of replacing it and see what happens? I know way back when, when we had "generators" instead of alternators you could start the truck pull the battery cable and flip the high beams on -- if the truck died your regulator was shot.. With all the wiring in these newer trucks I don't know if I am comfortable opening up the charging circuit for fear of burning something else up.

 

[Rickademus]

Voltages

If you suspect overcharging voltage we need to know what voltages you are getting at the battery.
Rule of thumb is minimum of 13.5 volts, maximum is 14 volts its rare that you see 14 volts though.
If its low check the voltage at the alternator direct on the big red cable.

You also need to check the voltage with the lights rear heated window and blower fan wipers on its OK to increase the revs.

I am new to the explorer myself i have 2005 xlt which i am currently in the process to get a European inspection here in Germany. It is US Spec.

I have a bad voltage drain and im going to take the advice from another member and add ground wires to the motor , frame maybe add to the pos+ if needed. Im a certified automotive technician over 26 years experience let me know how you got on and also how your transmission rebuild is getting on .

 

[cjsmith8766]

Greetings to Germany!!

hope you enjoy your truck as much as I do mine.. I will check on voltage this evening and report back.

as to the rebuild I just didn't have the time or space to do it myself, I had a shop handle it for me, everything has been great as far as that is concerned. can barely feel my shift points.

when the shop took the tranny apart they found that most of the hard parts were in great shape (aside from the case itself) but as with a lot of these trucks the servo bores were toast (had the case machined and re-sleeved) as well as 2 bands had completely broken.

its been great having the truck back on the road, just want to get this little electrical issue dealt with!

 

[cjsmith8766]

Checked the voltage at the battery last night..

truck off - 12.7
truck idling - 13.6 (first started)
truck under load - 17.8
truck idling after 25 mins - 14-15.5

definitely over charging.. has anyone taken the alternator apart and just replaced the voltage regulator?

anyone have any ideas of what else it might be other than the regulator?

thanks!

 

[pet575]

I don't know if that alternator has the ability to be easily taken apart and replace the voltage regulator like the alternators I cut my teeth on. Last issue I had with mine I just replaced it but I was also well over 150K and I figured it wasn't worth the time I didn't have to try it.

One thing you might also look into: check all of your large gauge cables for corrosion. I learned about internal corrosion a few years back on mine. Cable to starter was pretty well rotted internally but you couldn't tell my looking at it. Caused my truck to randomly decide not to start and some other corroded connections/cables have caused that jumping/misbehaving gauge issue for me.

 

[Rickademus]

Voltages

You need to replace your alternator pick a used one up at the junk yard ebay. Try to get the original part number if buying on line there is nothing wrong in buying a used one thats what i do here in europe hope this helps

 

[cjsmith8766]

Thanks a lot guys.

I am going to be doing some reconfiguration of the viper system this weekend.. I got up under the dash during this whole fiasco and am quite dis-satisfied with the install job that was done on it, plus a couple wires look like they need to be re-spliced. Might try the telescopic steering wheel mod while I'm in there too.

Probably get to the alternator mid-week, while I'm under the hood I will check all the ground points and possibly just replace the battery cables for good measure.

I'll follow up and let you guys know how everything goes.

 

[cjsmith8766]

just to bring some closure to this thread.. i replaced the alternator and it remedied all my issues.. for anyone looking to just replace the regulator it IS possible, i did some playing around with my core and there are 5 torx screws that hold the regulator on the alternator, remove them and the whole unit pops off.

thanks to everyone who contributed here!