2004 Explorer grinding

[Mototech77]

There’s a tsb about this issue (differential clutch packs)

You had asked earlier in this discussion how to verify that have a LS vs. open differential. I’m slightly confused about this since you also said one shop mentioned the clutch packs and you are referring to the TSB again. Did you or the shop verify that you actually have an LS diff? My apologies if I missed this somehow.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

Rear differential drain doesn’t want to release

You had asked earlier in this discussion how to verify that have a LS vs. open differential. I’m slightly confused about this since you also said one shop mentioned the clutch packs and you are referring to the TSB again. Did you or the shop verify that you actually have an LS diff? My apologies if I missed this somehow.

i hope or under impression limited slip bc I bought friction modifier at Ford. The bottom drain plug doesn’t want to loosen

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

felt like my differential was going out. Saturday I asked Walmart to check my rear tires and I had a separated belt on driver side tire.
Today I changed the gear oil and added friction modifier from Ford and seems like the low speed turning noise in rear seems to be gone. I used a 1/2 drove to 3/4 drive adapter and I rested the end of ratchet handle on a Jack I used a Jack gravity and weight to loosen the bottom drain it was that tight. Now just waiting on front hub assemblies in the mail.

noise in rear is gone. The fluid was

 

[Mototech77]

That’s great to hear. Yes, that gigantic drain plug they put in these is a pain to get out the first time. Good luck with the front hubs. I was very glad when I changed mine out as there was some blueing of metal where they had built up heat on one of them.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

That’s great to hear. Yes, that gigantic drain plug they put in these is a pain to get out the first time. Good luck with the front hubs. I was very glad when I changed mine out as there was some blueing of metal where they had built up heat on one of them.

Will I need lock tite or thread locker for the hub assembly bolts in front and if so which color?

 

[Mototech77]

Will I need lock tite or thread locker for the hub assembly bolts in front and if so which color?

The package should contain instructions regarding use of thread locker if not pretreated and the recommended torque specs.

 

[Bookworm370]

There’s a tsb about this issue (differential clutch packs)

You don't by any chance, have a link to it so I can show my shop who tells me nothing is wrong?
Thanks

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

You don't by any chance, have a link to it so I can show my shop who tells me nothing is wrong?
Thanks

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

You don't by any chance, have a link to it so I can show my shop who tells me nothing is wrong?
Thanks

Does anyone have a clue? - F150online Forums

Suspension - Does anyone have a clue? - Getting right to the point, my stock 04 crewcab f150 has a slight chatter to it when I take off. It is especially noticable when I am turning from a stop. The feeling is like I have knobby tires and for a second or two I feel the tires trying to catch...

www.f150online.com

And clutch packs are unavailable at Ford.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Will I need lock tite or thread locker for the hub assembly bolts in front and if so which color?

What did you end up ordering for the hubs?

It turns out that the SKF hubs I ordered actually came with assembly bolts, which is odd since they are not pictured in the listing or mentioned in the parts list. That is annoying since I ordered bolts from another supplier.

If your part comes with bolts, they will likely have pre-applied thread locker (probably yellow). If that is the case you will only need to pay attention to torquing the bolts correctly. I also applied a small band of high temp RTV around the base of where the hub slides into the knuckle. The original part actually had a rubber seal there but it is not on any of the replacement parts. It is probably not necessary but I had some RTV and so I decided that it wouldn't hurt. I'm not sure I would buy RTV just for that purpose.

If your bolts don't have pre-applied thread locker, or the part didn't come with bolts, you will need to add at least some orange,

Permatex 25210 High Strength Removable Orange ThreadLocker ($9.97)

You also could use the red as you likely won't be taking these off any time soon, but I prefer the orange. I am never 100% confident that I won't have to redo something. If you are not getting new axle nuts, I would put some of this on the old ones as well. New nuts are recommended so I would definitely add something if you are not replacing the nuts.

LMHmedchem

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

What did you end up ordering for the hubs?

It turns out that the SKF hubs I ordered actually came with assembly bolts, which is odd since they are not pictured in the listing or mentioned in the parts list. That is annoying since I ordered bolts from another supplier.

If your part comes with bolts, they will likely have pre-applied thread locker (probably yellow). If that is the case you will only need to pay attention to torquing the bolts correctly. I also applied a small band of high temp RTV around the base of where the hub slides into the knuckle. The original part actually had a rubber seal there but it is not on any of the replacement parts. It is probably not necessary but I had some RTV and so I decided that it wouldn't hurt. I'm not sure I would buy RTV just for that purpose.

If your bolts don't have pre-applied thread locker, or the part didn't come with bolts, you will need to add at least some orange,

Permatex 25210 High Strength Removable Orange ThreadLocker ($9.97)

You also could use the red as you likely won't be taking these off any time soon, but I prefer the orange. I am never 100% confident that I won't have to redo something. If you are not getting new axle nuts, I would put some of this on the old ones as well. New nuts are recommended so I would definitely add something if you are not replacing the nuts.

LMHmedchem

Something front Amazon waiting on a day off to install. There is no axle nut or cv axle on the front. I thought blue and red was two lock tite options.

 

[Mototech77]

There are lot of colors available, but blue and red are the most prevalent, at least in my experience.

This chart explains in detail:

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/PX-0716-2019-Threadlocker-Selector-Chart.pdf

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

There are lot of colors available, but blue and red are the most prevalent, at least in my experience.

This chart explains in detail:

https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/PX-0716-2019-Threadlocker-Selector-Chart.pdf

Auto shack no bolts or instructions

Called Autozone and asked about lock tite needed I was told no. I even mentioned to them my understanding that locktite is applied at factory. They replied factory applies lock tite to every bolt.

 

[Mototech77]

Auto shack no bolts or instructions

Called Autozone and asked about lock tite needed I was told no. I even mentioned to them my understanding that locktite is applied at factory. They replied factory applies lock tite to every bolt.

Torque to yield bolts and certain retaining nuts are single use, but I don’t believe this to be the case with the three hub retaining bolts. If the original bolts are in good condition, my [unprofessional] opinion would be to clean them up with brake cleaner and apply blue Loctite. Red is generally for permanent applications and may require heat to remove in the future. AllDataDIY lists the torque spec for the retaining bolts to be 83 lb/ft.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Torque to yield bolts and certain retaining nuts are single use, but I don’t believe this to be the case with the three hub retaining bolts. If the original bolts are in good condition, my [unprofessional] opinion would be to clean them up with brake cleaner and apply blue Loctite. Red is generally for permanent applications and may require heat to remove in the future. AllDataDIY lists the torque spec for the retaining bolts to be 83 lb/ft.

All of the postings I have seen on replacing hubs are very clear to not re-use the bolts. It's hard to know exactly what this means other than that is what the manufacturer recommends. I am sure that there are allot of vehicles out there that are held together with parts that the manufacturer says to not reuse. The manufacturer does have a bit of a conflict of interest in that department.

These are the bolts I bought to install my hubs,

10x Black-Phosphate Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75 60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With shipping, these will be about $20. It is a pack of 10 so will be a few more bolts than you need. You can get sets of bolts from Dorman for about $15/shipping included from Amazon, but you will need 2 sets so it will cost more to go that route. I am not that thrilled about using Dorman products for anything important. The original part is a hex bolt with a washer but all the replacement parts seem to be flange bolts.

Of course, my hubs ended up coming with bolts so I didn't really need them.

I use the orange threadlocker for anything I don't plan to remove again. It is much stronger than the blue but is still considered "removable", meaning you don't need a torch to get it off. One of the reasons that threadlocker is used so much is that these trucks are not exactly new. Especially where you have bolts that are threaded into aluminum, the aluminum has worn some and the bolt may not fit as tightly as it did originally. That is really not a problem in this case because you are threading the bolt into a new part. Even still, there is no harm in using some threadlocker and there could potentially be a great deal of harm if it turns out you should have used it. This isn't a part that you want working itself loose. The same goes for reusing the old bolts.

If your budget will allow for another $30 or so, I would get some new bolts and some threadlocker. If not, well you do what you can.

LMHmedchem

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

All of the postings I have seen on replacing hubs are very clear to not re-use the bolts. It's hard to know exactly what this means other than that is what the manufacturer recommends. I am sure that there are allot of vehicles out there that are held together with parts that the manufacturer says to not reuse. The manufacturer does have a bit of a conflict of interest in that department.

These are the bolts I bought to install my hubs,

10x Black-Phosphate Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75 60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With shipping, these will be about $20. It is a pack of 10 so will be a few more bolts than you need. You can get sets of bolts from Dorman for about $15/shipping included from Amazon, but you will need 2 sets so it will cost more to go that route. I am not that thrilled about using Dorman products for anything important. The original part is a hex bolt with a washer but all the replacement parts seem to be flange bolts.

Of course, my hubs ended up coming with bolts so I didn't really need them.

I use the orange threadlocker for anything I don't plan to remove again. It is much stronger than the blue but is still considered "removable", meaning you don't need a torch to get it off. One of the reasons that threadlocker is used so much is that these trucks are not exactly new. Especially where you have bolts that are threaded into aluminum, the aluminum has worn some and the bolt may not fit as tightly as it did originally. That is really not a problem in this case because you are threading the bolt into a new part. Even still, there is no harm in using some threadlocker and there could potentially be a great deal of harm if it turns out you should have used it. This isn't a part that you want working itself loose. The same goes for reusing the old bolts.

If your budget will allow for another $30 or so, I would get some new bolts and some threadlocker. If not, well you do what you can.

LMHmedchem

Mine didn’t arrive with bolts
What is torque for two caliper bolts I have to remove?

 

[LMHmedchem]

Mine didn’t arrive with bolts
What is torque for two caliper bolts I have to remove?

The torque setting is important for when you put the bolts back on so as to not over or under tighten.

caliper bracket mounting bolts: 83 ft/lbs
caliper slide pin bolts: 24 ft/lbs

These values are for the 2002 explorer, I don't know if the 2003 is any different.

I tend to replace the boots, slide pins, and the caliper bracket bolts when things start to get rusty and hard to remove. I also replace the bleeder screw if it's not easy to open. It's not uncommon to need a bolt extractor socket to get the slide pin bolts off as they can rust away if they have been on there for a long time so keep that in mind.

RAYBESTOS H5086 Front Caliper Slide Pin Set ($4.86)
RAYBESTOS H16190 Front Caliper Slide Pin Boot Set ($2.84)
RAYBESTOS H17012 Front Caliper Bracket Bolt Set ($2.77)
ACDELCO 18K2327 Front Brake Bleeder Screw ($1.36)

You need a set of bracket bolts and slide pins for each side, but only one set of the boots (one set does both sides). Some brake pads come with new boots, so check that out if you are doing your brakes now. All of the above comes to less than $12 per wheel and will make it easier to to maintain you brakes in the future. I only do the bleeder screw if I need a bolt extractor socket to loosen it.

It is a good practice to try to loosen everything you need to take off before actually removing anything. That way you can make sure that you can complete the repair before starting. Breaking off a bolt can definitely ruin your day, so use allot of penetrating oil and be patient. If a bolt doesn't want to come off apply more oil and wait a day or so. Penetrating oil works best over time so it can be effective to apply some every day for a while.

LMHmedchem

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

The torque setting is important for when you put the bolts back on so as to not over or under tighten.

caliper bracket mounting bolts: 83 ft/lbs
caliper slide pin bolts: 24 ft/lbs

These values are for the 2002 explorer, I don't know if the 2003 is any different.

I tend to replace the boots, slide pins, and the caliper bracket bolts when things start to get rusty and hard to remove. I also replace the bleeder screw if it's not easy to open. It's not uncommon to need a bolt extractor socket to get the slide pin bolts off as they can rust away if they have been on there for a long time so keep that in mind.

RAYBESTOS H5086 Front Caliper Slide Pin Set ($4.86)
RAYBESTOS H16190 Front Caliper Slide Pin Boot Set ($2.84)
RAYBESTOS H17012 Front Caliper Bracket Bolt Set ($2.77)
ACDELCO 18K2327 Front Brake Bleeder Screw ($1.36)

You need a set of bracket bolts and slide pins for each side, but only one set of the boots (one set does both sides). Some brake pads come with new boots, so check that out if you are doing your brakes now. All of the above comes to less than $12 per wheel and will make it easier to to maintain you brakes in the future. I only do the bleeder screw if I need a bolt extractor socket to loosen it.

It is a good practice to try to loosen everything you need to take off before actually removing anything. That way you can make sure that you can complete the repair before starting. Breaking off a bolt can definitely ruin your day, so use allot of penetrating oil and be patient. If a bolt doesn't want to come off apply more oil and wait a day or so. Penetrating oil works best over time so it can be effective to apply some every day for a while.

LMHmedchem

So hub and caliper bolts are both 83 ft lbs? It’s 5 lug nuts and 5 bolts

 

[LMHmedchem]

So hub and caliper bolts are both 83 ft lbs? It’s 5 lug nuts and 5 bolts

To change out the hub/bearing you will need to remove and then replace

5 hub lug nuts to remove the wheel
2 caliper slide pin bolts to remove the caliper from the bracket
2 caliper mounting bracket bolts to remove the bracket from the knuckle
3 hub mounting bolts to remove the hub from the knuckle

The torque specs depend a bit on the year of your truck. There are some thread here already covering that but make sure that you are looking at the specs for your year.

The 3 bolts that attach the hub/bearing assembly to the knuckle are torqued to 83 ft/lb, the same as the 2 caliper bracket bolts. The hub lug nuts (for when you put the wheel back on) are usually torqued to 100 ft/lb.

Some people remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts and take off the caliper without removing the caliper from the bracket. This is common when the brake pads are not being replaced. I would take the time to service the caliper if you can.

Sometimes it is easier to remove the hub from the knuckle if you remove the entire knuckle. Since you don't have an axle to deal with you should be able to tap the hub out from the back with a big hammer and a block of wood. Spray some penetrating oil around the inside of the knuckle where the hub inserts.

Here are a few videos if you haven't watched one yet. These should give the torque settings for parts where it is important.

02-05 Ford Explorer Front Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement How to Remove & Install
2002 Ford Explorer front hub bearing installation
How to replace front hub bearings on a Ford Explorer

If I remember, these videos all show a 4WD. Yours will be much easier because you won't have to deal with the axle being in the way.

LMHmedchem

 

[hoitytoit]

recently bought a 2004 Explorer with 160000 miles. I no longer have my 2003 Explorer.
I immediately had to have both wheel bearings in back replaced and was told the cv axles on passenger side had recently been changed before I bought it. I have a abs code for passenger front and feel like front hubs will be changed next.
I have Eddie Bauer edition rear wheel drive independent suspension with cv axles in rear.
I’m hearing a grinding sound like I have to be cautious with acceleration bc it sounds like a wheel is spinning or grinding sound like a stuck caliper or rubbing brake sound.

why are all bearings bad at 160000 miles??Buying online I can buy two cheaper than one at Auto Zone.

one rear bearing install, a shop used a hammer and torch not a press to remove and or install bearing.
4.0
Rear wheel drive 2wd

Careful buying online, the ones I bought online didn't even last 10k miles, spend the extra $$$ and save the headache. My 2 cents.