2006 6R60 disengaging to neutral in drive

[etobicokian]

Was running rough 3 weeks ago, engine light came on, changed #5 coil and was fine. Now my 2006 Explorer 4.6 4x4 with 125,000 miles, in drive or reverse, after warming up a little, will not stay in gear when foot is on brake. It rapidly jerks between being in gear and neutral until I drive away. Fluid changed 3 months ago, level is perfect, no leaks, magnet was spotless, shifts and drives perfectly when cold for the first five minutes, new battery installed. Code U0101, wrench, abs light and engine light came on and trans. went into safe mode with hard shifting from park into reverse and I believe third when shifting to drive. PCM was cleared and it drives fine until it warms up. I know that all the codes will be triggered again if I keep driving.
Valve body was dropped at last service and also previous service to get an extra few quarts of fluid out. Could problem be a damaged bridge seal/valve body gasket? Would a bad torque converter have any of these symptoms? Maybe a leaky valve body solenoid? Don't want to rebuild if I can repair. Thanks for any direction on where to look.

 

[Flag Gibby]

I would suggest starting in the transmission section. There are some very knowledgeable tranny guys over there that would be able to point you in the right direction.

 

[etobicokian]

Bridge seal

Will try replacing bridge seal and hope for the best.

Can anyone help with re: and re: instruction for the 6R60 valve body.

Thank you.

 

[banditxp]

These videos may be helpful to you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nse_z9RmPcQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRDSQCklCHI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQe11789HsQ

 

[etobicokian]

check valve and spring

Very helpful...thanks alot.
Just need to figure out what happens with spring and check valve when valve body is dropped and how to put and keep them back in place during reassembly.

 

[etobicokian]

update

Short update for 307 (to date) viewers interested in this thread: I found a transmission shop that I felt I could trust that quoted $150 to change bridge seal vs others quoting $450, $550, $300, some that told me I don't have a 6R60 and others that have never worked on a 6R60. Left car for one day and when I went to pick it up was told that fluid looked good, original seal was fine, new one was put in, old one returned. Transmission was scanned (code U0101-communication error) and road tested, but not fixed. Was told that it was not the transmission that was the problem and that I should try a Ford TCM reflash. Total fee for work done was $60. As car limped home I stopped in at an AutoSource (parts jobber) where their scanner said P0101-bad MAF. Bought and installed a used MAF, same problem.
For some reason I decided to disconnect battery, remove 6 month old coils, pull and clean 30K mile spark plugs. Reinstalled spark plugs, installed some of the original and a few of the newer coils, reconnected the battery and problem is solved. TRUCK IS FIXED AND RUNS AS IT SHOULD. Not sure if it was the fact the I disconnected the battery after changing MAF which I originally did not do or if I had a bad coil and lucked out by not using it as one of the 8 that I picked to use.
Today the lights on the radio died but I found a Google post showing where I need to repair 8 solder connections on circuit board.

 

[Explorer_PL]

You do not know how many times I thought my tranny was bad when it was just a bad coil and the CEL did not come on.