2006 Explorer - Timing Chain Question

[Kirka]

I have got a '06 XLT Explorer (160k miles), engine code "E", that has broken the front Left timing chain. This happened when the engine was running and the broken chain made a small hole in the valve cover. Of course when this happened, the engine stopped. I am just trying to figure out what the damage is internally and about what it will cost to do this repair myself. Ford dealer wants $7,000 to repair. The car is not worth that.

I have been doing a bunch of reading here and it sounds like this is a pretty common problem. I am concerned that since this is an interference engine (maybe someone could confirm its a interference engine), there may be a bent valve or damaged piston... etc. Engine had not been making any noise, so I can only assume that the rear timing chain and cassette is good.

I was thinking that I could do a leak test on all the cylinders, that would tell me if I have any internal damage. If it fails that, then I know the head will have to come off. If it passed the test, I would just replace the front chain and cassette, replace the damaged cover and keep driving it.

If I have to, I will pull the engine and replace the rear chain/cassette and the front chains. I just don't want to do any unnecessary work.

What do you guys think? Is this a good approach to repairing this, or is there something that I am missing? I found the guide that 2000StreetRod posted on the TC procedure. Looks like it is pretty good post.

What about a Ford Service Manual for this engine, is there one out there I can download?

Thanks,
Kirk

 

[Tech By Trade]

Just started pulling my engine out. I was lucky, my tensioner went, and not the chain. Bad thing is the rear is shot too. It is an interference engine. A compression test will tell you if you bent a valve. So far I am into it about 200 bucks in tools, without the timing kit. A fellow is going to sell me his for 150, but I want to make sure its repairable first. My bearings look alright, no brass in the oil pan or filter, and I am around 200 lbs on all cylinders so I will probably be okay. I'm still not sold on having to pull the transmission completely out to get the engine out, but I am not that far yet.

http://search.ebscohost.com/
Password is tech, username is tech.

Check over in the second gen sport trac section for my story so far. I have been bouncing ideas off 2000streetrod, and it seems like the job can be done so far. Its just real time consuming.

 

[Kirka]

I'll check out your post. Thanks for the link to the documents. that is what I was looking for.

My problem with a compression test is the chain is broken. I was thinking that I need to repair the TC first.. else the compression test would not work. However on second thought, I could just turn the cam until the valves are closed, then spin the engine with the starter and check the each cylinder. If it is a interference engine, the damage is already done. If they are bent, I'll just have low compression (leakage).

Any idea on what number I should be looking for on the comp gauge to say if its good or bad?

Thanks

 

[Tech By Trade]

I guess if your chain is broken a compression test wont work. Turning the engine over with a valve open is a bad idea, and the valves wont close with no timing chain. Good luck.

 

[boominXplorer]

Good chance you have at least 3 valves bent. You do not have to remove the engine to pull the drivers side head or replace the chains on that side. You can buy valves for about $15 each, head bolts and gasket another $100 and another $200 if you want a machine shop to replace the valves for you.

I would not turn the engine at all. I would remove the timing chain and drivers side camshaft so all the valves will lift. Then you can do a leak down test safely and accurate.

 

[Tech By Trade]

a bent valve will probably be around 50 psi. Mine were around 200 psi. Do what he said^ and you should be alright. Might want to pull the pan too and get rid of any bits o cam tensionser that are floating around in there.

 

[Kirka]

You guys are great. Will get into it tonight and see how bad it is.

Thanks

 

[superinstaller]

Hey Kirka i was lucky enough to find a guy selling the ford manuals on ebay, let me know if i can email you any pics from them. Good luck! Im swaping my torque converter this weekend cuz no one ever changed the tranny fluid and now its shuttering.

 

[Kirka]

Just an update on my progress. Here is a picture of the damage before I started. This is the damage to the valve cover. The beige color part you see inside the hole is part of the chain guide thats wedged up on top of the TC.

I removed the intake and the valve cover. It looks like the chain guide has totally disentigrated. There is not any part of the guide left on the tensioner side. There were some pieces of the guide in the valve cover. I am sure there are parts of it down in the oil pan, so the pan is dropping tonight. I will be removing the front cover so that the chain guide can be replaced.

The chain on the side opposite the tensionser is very lose. I am thinking now that when the guide went, the TC jumped timing on this side... and the engine died. Still not sure if there is valve damage or not. Either way, I will have to replace the guide and chain on this side.

Also will be removing the valve cover on the RH side to inspect the other chain/guide......

Thoughs??

Thanks

 

[Explorer75]

You could get an used motor for under 2,000 + labor. Unless you get a good cheap mechanic (or yourself) to do the work of the damaged engine I suggest you throw numbers on an used motor and labor.

 

[Kirka]

I have shopped around for a used motor. I am doing the work myself, so the labor is pretty reasonable . All I will be out is the cost of the parts., plus I will probably learn something along the way.

This is just the first time to work on one of these engines (I have mostly worked on GM products). Somewhat of a learning curve.

 

[Explorer75]

Sounds great man, good luck.

 

[Kirka]

Does anyone know what size is the jack-shaft retaing bolt? I have to buy a set of the inverted spline sockets and I want to make sure it in the set I purchase.

I have looked and can't find it called out anywhere.

Nevermind.... think I just found it in a post by 2000streetrod. He says its a E-18. That sounds about right since its larger than the set I had picked out....lol

Thanks

 

[boominXplorer]

Does anyone know what size is the jack-shaft retaing bolt? I have to buy a set of the inverted spline sockets and I want to make sure it in the set I purchase.

I have looked and can't find it called out anywhere.

Thanks

It's an E18 external torx. Good thing is the chain is still attached, your valves should be just fine. When the front chain guides go it will run like crap, spudder and not idle. When the rear chain guide goes all you will hear is a light tapping of the chain on the guide bolt, it will run just fine.

 

[2000StreetRod]

original engine?

Is that the original engine? I thought the camshaft oil tube was eliminated in the 4th Generation SOHC V6.

I agree that you should check the rear cassette - and before spending any money or time on repairs or parts. If the rear cassette guide is broken then you'll have to pull the engine. Then you can decide whether to buy the parts and tools to repair or buy a replacement engine.

 

[Kirka]

It's an E18 external torx. Good thing is the chain is still attached, your valves should be just fine. When the front chain guides go it will run like crap, spudder and not idle. When the rear chain guide goes all you will hear is a light tapping of the chain on the guide bolt, it will run just fine.

Thanks. I found the tools at Harbor Freight..68016

BTW.... you have a wicked looking front end on your truck

I got the RH cover off tonight.... what a PITA. What made it so bad was a metal line that went down to the exhaust manifold. It cam up over the top of the valve cover and I could not get the nut loose. Anyway, got it off and the RH chain looks to be in good shape.

I still want to do a compression test because I think why the engine died is b/c it jumped time when the LH guide let go. I am trying to determine if it is, in fact "out of time". I don't have the kit to do this with, but I do have access to one if I need it. I was hoping I could look at it and tell if it was in/out of time.

Here is what I see on the RH side. I have the balancer turned to the "0" timing mark. Notice where the cam lobes are (hope the pic is clear). The cuts on the end of the cam is parallel with the valve cover sealing face and both valves are closed.

..... and here is what I see on the LH side.

The tang on the LH cam is not where its supposed to be. If the RH is where its supposed to be, then the LH is off by about 1/2 turn. If the RH is turned 360° off, then that puts the LH close to having the tang over the axis of the cam (its still off a little just by eyeballing it).

Is this on #1 TDC or do I need to go another full revolution?

[MENTION=111113]2000StreetRod[/MENTION]:
Yes, this is the original engine. The exploder was bought used, but from everything I have seen is all factory.

 

[2000StreetRod]

150 degrees off

It looks to me that the driver side camshaft is about 150 degrees off. The photo of the passenger side shows one cam lobe at 45 degrees relative to the valve cover/head mating surface, the other cam lobe at 315 degrees, and the camshaft timing slot parallel so I agree that cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Here's a photo for comparison.

For the driver side the timing nub is about 150 degrees off.

In my opinion it is very likely that you have valve damage on the driver side valves. I advise against rotating the crankshaft using the starter in case you were lucky and there isn't damage. I've read that the engine will start but run poorly with the camshafts 180 degrees out of phase. If you have access to an inspection camera you could remove the spark plugs and check the pistons for "dings".

Or, you could remove the spark plugs and manually rotate the crankshaft (being watchful for interference resistance) until one driver side cylinder has the camshaft lobes in the compression position. Then connect an air compressor hose with a spark plug adapter and test for compression or valve air flow. Repeat for the other two cylinders.

Another option is to retime the camshafts and then do a compression test using the starter.

 

[Kirka]

... the camshaft timing slot parallel so I agree that cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Here's a photo for comparison. the timing nub is about 150 degrees off......

Thanks for confirming that.

.......

Another option is to retime the camshafts and then do a compression test using the starter.

This is what I will be doing tonight. Somebody has already spun the motor with the starter, so the valve damage may already be done. I have turned the crank by hand (turning the harmonic balancer) and did not feel any resistance. I went two turns.

Do you think that the car would even start with the LH cam being out 150°? The owner tried to start it up when it died on them and he said it would not even try to start. It might not run on 3 cylinders, IDK.

Thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

running on 3 cylinders

When I rewired my engine wiring harness for adding the M90 supercharger I failed to splice the power wire for the driver side fuel injectors. The engine started fine, ran smoothly but accelerated slower than a moped with two riders. I drove it for two weeks before finding the problem.

At this point I suggest retiming the left camshaft and performing a compression test using the starter. It will take some work to get the camshaft in the correct position without encountering interference. You can remove the spark plugs and then rotate the crank until all bank 2 (driver side pistons) are equally low in the cylinders by measuring their height thru the spark plug hole. In that position you should be able to rotate the crankshaft while avoiding piston/valve interference. Then rotate the driver side camshaft to the approximately correct position relative to the passenger side camshaft. Then tighten the bank 2 camshaft so it won't slip and rotate the crankshaft to TDC and check/adjust for correct timing.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Looks just like mine does, except I still had some tensioner left.