2009 4.0L Eddie Bauer PCM PINOUT

[GB1977]

Yes its been hot and sticky here! Glad to have it cooling down finally. If I recall correctly, I had two or 3 spots. one was about 12" off the PCM just passed the splice for the connector on the left inner fender, then one past the EGR, then one down in back at the firewall behind the intake.

I'm pleased to say it's still running great! I'm still stunned that was enough to make a difference, but it was. Again, I didn't find any areas where the insulation had opened up, just lightly melted and stuck together. Apparently it was just enough. I bought some good harness tape and was careful re-wrapping everything. Took a while, but it's been worth it.

Good luck with yours! Please post how it comes out.

 

[jbwilli]

Yes its been hot and sticky here! Glad to have it cooling down finally. If I recall correctly, I had two or 3 spots. one was about 12" off the PCM just passed the splice for the connector on the left inner fender, then one past the EGR, then one down in back at the firewall behind the intake.

I'm pleased to say it's still running great! I'm still stunned that was enough to make a difference, but it was. Again, I didn't find any areas where the insulation had opened up, just lightly melted and stuck together. Apparently it was just enough. I bought some good harness tape and was careful re-wrapping everything. Took a while, but it's been worth it.

Good luck with yours! Please post how it comes out.

Wires looked great all the way back to where they drop behind the intake! I cleaned all the PCM connectors with electronic cleaner. Flexed and spread the wires apart. Put the split plast harness wrap back on. Erased all codes and tool a short drive. CE light off, but need to drive a few days for close to 200 miles to be sure. Will update. IF it comes back on, I will pull the intake and unwrap the last foot of that harness for further inspection! THANKS!

 

[pollardhimself]

REF 2009 4.0L Eddie Bauer: Trying to find PCM pinout for Vapor Purge Solenoid circuit (1 green/1 yellow wire) from VPS to the assigned PCM connector. Note: The solenoid is mounted on drivers side engine compartment fender area. The solenoid bench checks good and makes positive open and close. It does not open when engine is running (good vacuum TO unit, no vacuum OUT, solenoid does not OPEN! I suspect a short in the green or yellow wire. Where does it connect to PCM pin location? THANKS in advance for any comments!

Here's a whole service manual site free

Free Service Manuals for 2009 Ford Truck vehicles | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair/service/workshop manuals for almost all 2009 Ford Truck vehicles, including electrical diagrams, recommended bolt torques, and estimated labor times.

charm.li

 

[GB1977]

Wires looked great all the way back to where they drop behind the intake! I cleaned all the PCM connectors with electronic cleaner. Flexed and spread the wires apart. Put the split plast harness wrap back on. Erased all codes and tool a short drive. CE light off, but need to drive a few days for close to 200 miles to be sure. Will update. IF it comes back on, I will pull the intake and unwrap the last foot of that harness for further inspection! THANKS!

Just curious how this all worked out for you? I'm getting some new issues, and can 100% confirm I have an issue with my PCM. Hoping to send it out for repair soon.

 

[jbwilli]

Just curious how this all worked out for you? I'm getting some new issues, and can 100% confirm I have an issue with my PCM. Hoping to send it out for repair soon.

The CE light came back on...argh! How did you confirm your PCM was at fault? I suspect same, but before I send it out, I also suspect there may be a shorted wire in the harness bundle I have not found to date. I have used SIA (Tilden, Illinois), but it takes a week to get it back for a 'inspect and repair'. Do you have other reliable PCM inspection sources? Thanks!

 

[GB1977]

I found one from another thread on here that I'm going to try -

Solved - Finally found a good PCM repair company

Took 5 companies, but Keyworks in Richmond VA. (Keyworks: Mail-in Keys and Ecu Repair services) came through. Found him through this video: Can see he has great skills and test equipment including Ford connectors. I had taken the PCM case top off myself, but saw no physical damage. I knew from...

www.explorerforum.com

So, my journey has went a bit farther than I've posted lately. After all that work cleaning up the wiring, my codes changed. I started getting an EVAP gross leak that I couldn't find, some oxygen sensor lean codes, etc.

I smoke-tested the EVAP system and couldn't find the leak. Then I noticed that when I commanded the EVAP purge solenoid on and off with my scan tool - it wasn't working. When I put a multimeter on it, to my surprise, I had ground from the PCM, regardless of whether it was commanded. The really weird thing was this "ground" would barely hold a load. I load-tested with a 0.6 amp tail light pigtail, and it barely glowed (in the dark). So, I realized what was happening. My EVAP Gross Leak was really the solenoid partly opening, and with the canister vent valve normally open, this brought a fresh air source into the engine, AKA a Vacuum leak.

So, I unplugged the Purge Solenoid and drove it. All my other codes went away, except for the EGR too low flow, which I'm still working on.

So, my theory was to 100% confirm the PCM instead of the wires I had to prove the following:

1. I didn't have a broken wire that was shorted to ground.
2. I didn't have a chaffed wire that was getting ground from another pin at the PCM.
3. The wire was intact to the PCM.

Test for #1
-I unplugged the PCM connector. If the ground was coming from somewhere other than the PCM, I would still have ground at the purge solenoid. I didn't.

Test for #2:
-If the wires were Chaffed and touching, then I'd have Continuity between the purge solenoid connection and some other pin at the PCM connector. I unplugged both PCM Connections. I tested every pin on the two PCM Connections that involve this harness. None had Continuity.

Test for #3:
-If the wire was broken, I wouldn't have continuity. Backprobed Pin #6 at the PCM to confirm continuity.

Additional Testing:
-Once I had it backprobed, I used my test leads to run the load test circuit instead of the main wiring. This utilized the 0.6amp Tail light bulb, that barely lit up, regardless of commanding the circuit on or off with my scan tool.

-Ground signal went away when the PCM connection was unplugged.


Disclaimer -
I'm a woodworker, not a professional mechanic. I've tried pretty hard to learn this stuff, but I certainly haven't mastered it. If you see a flaw in my logic, please point it out. We can all learn together.

I still have a pesky EGR too low flow P0401. I don't know if this is electrical related or not. I hope to come up with some experiments tonight to test it. If you have any ideas, please let me know. I'm guessing this is either electrical, or a clogged pipe. How likely is it that the pipe coming off the exhaust manifold is clogged?

 

[jbwilli]

I found one from another thread on here that I'm going to try -

Solved - Finally found a good PCM repair company

Took 5 companies, but Keyworks in Richmond VA. (Keyworks: Mail-in Keys and Ecu Repair services) came through. Found him through this video: Can see he has great skills and test equipment including Ford connectors. I had taken the PCM case top off myself, but saw no physical damage. I knew from...

www.explorerforum.com

So, my journey has went a bit farther than I've posted lately. After all that work cleaning up the wiring, my codes changed. I started getting an EVAP gross leak that I couldn't find, some oxygen sensor lean codes, etc.

I smoke-tested the EVAP system and couldn't find the leak. Then I noticed that when I commanded the EVAP purge solenoid on and off with my scan tool - it wasn't working. When I put a multimeter on it, to my surprise, I had ground from the PCM, regardless of whether it was commanded. The really weird thing was this "ground" would barely hold a load. I load-tested with a 0.6 amp tail light pigtail, and it barely glowed (in the dark). So, I realized what was happening. My EVAP Gross Leak was really the solenoid partly opening, and with the canister vent valve normally open, this brought a fresh air source into the engine, AKA a Vacuum leak.

So, I unplugged the Purge Solenoid and drove it. All my other codes went away, except for the EGR too low flow, which I'm still working on.

So, my theory was to 100% confirm the PCM instead of the wires I had to prove the following:

1. I didn't have a broken wire that was shorted to ground.
2. I didn't have a chaffed wire that was getting ground from another pin at the PCM.
3. The wire was intact to the PCM.

Test for #1
-I unplugged the PCM connector. If the ground was coming from somewhere other than the PCM, I would still have ground at the purge solenoid. I didn't.

Test for #2:
-If the wires were Chaffed and touching, then I'd have Continuity between the purge solenoid connection and some other pin at the PCM connector. I unplugged both PCM Connections. I tested every pin on the two PCM Connections that involve this harness. None had Continuity.

Test for #3:
-If the wire was broken, I wouldn't have continuity. Backprobed Pin #6 at the PCM to confirm continuity.

Additional Testing:
-Once I had it backprobed, I used my test leads to run the load test circuit instead of the main wiring. This utilized the 0.6amp Tail light bulb, that barely lit up, regardless of commanding the circuit on or off with my scan tool.

-Ground signal went away when the PCM connection was unplugged.


Disclaimer -
I'm a woodworker, not a professional mechanic. I've tried pretty hard to learn this stuff, but I certainly haven't mastered it. If you see a flaw in my logic, please point it out. We can all learn together.

I still have a pesky EGR too low flow P0401. I don't know if this is electrical related or not. I hope to come up with some experiments tonight to test it. If you have any ideas, please let me know. I'm guessing this is either electrical, or a clogged pipe. How likely is it that the pipe coming off the exhaust manifold is clogged?

 

[jbwilli]

I found one from another thread on here that I'm going to try -

Solved - Finally found a good PCM repair company

Took 5 companies, but Keyworks in Richmond VA. (Keyworks: Mail-in Keys and Ecu Repair services) came through. Found him through this video: Can see he has great skills and test equipment including Ford connectors. I had taken the PCM case top off myself, but saw no physical damage. I knew from...

www.explorerforum.com

So, my journey has went a bit farther than I've posted lately. After all that work cleaning up the wiring, my codes changed. I started getting an EVAP gross leak that I couldn't find, some oxygen sensor lean codes, etc.

I smoke-tested the EVAP system and couldn't find the leak. Then I noticed that when I commanded the EVAP purge solenoid on and off with my scan tool - it wasn't working. When I put a multimeter on it, to my surprise, I had ground from the PCM, regardless of whether it was commanded. The really weird thing was this "ground" would barely hold a load. I load-tested with a 0.6 amp tail light pigtail, and it barely glowed (in the dark). So, I realized what was happening. My EVAP Gross Leak was really the solenoid partly opening, and with the canister vent valve normally open, this brought a fresh air source into the engine, AKA a Vacuum leak.

So, I unplugged the Purge Solenoid and drove it. All my other codes went away, except for the EGR too low flow, which I'm still working on.

So, my theory was to 100% confirm the PCM instead of the wires I had to prove the following:

1. I didn't have a broken wire that was shorted to ground.
2. I didn't have a chaffed wire that was getting ground from another pin at the PCM.
3. The wire was intact to the PCM.

Test for #1
-I unplugged the PCM connector. If the ground was coming from somewhere other than the PCM, I would still have ground at the purge solenoid. I didn't.

Test for #2:
-If the wires were Chaffed and touching, then I'd have Continuity between the purge solenoid connection and some other pin at the PCM connector. I unplugged both PCM Connections. I tested every pin on the two PCM Connections that involve this harness. None had Continuity.

Test for #3:
-If the wire was broken, I wouldn't have continuity. Backprobed Pin #6 at the PCM to confirm continuity.

Additional Testing:
-Once I had it backprobed, I used my test leads to run the load test circuit instead of the main wiring. This utilized the 0.6amp Tail light bulb, that barely lit up, regardless of commanding the circuit on or off with my scan tool.

-Ground signal went away when the PCM connection was unplugged.


Disclaimer -
I'm a woodworker, not a professional mechanic. I've tried pretty hard to learn this stuff, but I certainly haven't mastered it. If you see a flaw in my logic, please point it out. We can all learn together.

I still have a pesky EGR too low flow P0401. I don't know if this is electrical related or not. I hope to come up with some experiments tonight to test it. If you have any ideas, please let me know. I'm guessing this is either electrical, or a clogged pipe. How likely is it that the pipe coming off the exhaust manifold is clogged?

I understand your logic. PURGE VALVE PO455 GROSS LEAK ISSUE: As I understand it, the EVAP Canister Purge Valve gets it supply voltage (GN wire) from fuse 42 (fuse box under hood).I assume it is hot only when key on. The ground wire (BN/YE ) goes to PCM pin 6. The circuit is only completed when PIN 6 at the PCM is 'internally' commanded by the PCM to switch it to ground!I When you unplugged the Purge Solenoid electrical connector, you removed the power and the ground wires from it completely! The Purge Valve is normally closed. Unless it is stuck in the open position, it remains closed and the vacuum in the line from the engine to it cannot pass through it and to the large vacuum line that goes rearward to the fuel canister/tank area. PCM PIN 6 is NOT grounded at all times, only when other internal signals from other EVAP devices tell the PCM to ground it! I replaced my Purge Valve with OEM Motorcraft as precaution. No change. I tested both the removed and new purge valves on the bench. Both vacuum ports were 'closed' 100% with no power applied. I jumped 12V to the 2 terminals. Both valves 'opened' 100% with 12 volts applied. Both purge valves are physically GOOD! Now for the vacuum lines to it.... I removed the spiral wrap from the smaller line from the engine to the purge valve and found it breaking down/deteriorating. It was so bad, my hands turned soot black from handling it and very hard to clean off! I plugged one end and it would not hold a hard vacuum. It bled off slowly! I replaced it with new evap rubber hose. No need to buy OEM FORD hose assy $$$ as the quick disconnects on both ends are easily removed and installed. I installed the spiral wrap and reinstalled. I suspected the large vacuum line from the Purge Valve is in the same deteriorated condition. It routes from the Purge Valve and aft behind the engine between the firewall and hard to see. The line was cracked at the very end where it connects to the Purge Valve large nipple, due to the large plastic quick disconnect fitting being inserted inside it and swelling it up. I removed the fitting and shortened the hose by 1 inch to remove the cracks in that small section. This line also sooted all over my hands from touching it and I assume it too will not hold a vacuum. The problem is, on my 2009 4.0L, this line is a factory made 3 piece line....each end had about 1 foot of rubber evap hose with about 2 feet of metal line in the middle, crimped together where the rubber meets the metal line. Also mounted to a metal bracket that bolts to engine/transmission. Looks impossible to replace without pulling transmission! Each end has the easily removable plastic quick disconnect fittings. I suspect this line too will not hold a vacuum and needs replaced. I plan to repace this crimped assy with a single EVAP rubber hose by simply disconnecting both ends, rob the quick disconnects from each end and install into a longer rubber evap hose and spiral wrap. I will leave the bad OEM assy installed but disconnected at both ends. I do not have a smoke tester to test this line. Being that it is spiral wrapped and only porous vs have a large crack or hole in it, smoke test may not show up??? ALL THE ABOVE SAID, we may both have a large EVAP leaks in the 2 vacuum lines that go from engine to Purge Valve --- and from the Purge valve rearward to the fuel canister. Also, the ground for the valve is not as you assumed.... it is only grounded when PCM internally connects it to ground, vs ALL THE TIME. I beleive this also only occurs when EVAP senses NO EVAP FLOW and WHEN THE PCM choses to monitor the EVAP SYSTEM ( whxi may or may bot be 100% of the time! ....more to come.

 

[GB1977]

jbwilli,​

We've been on this journey together, and I hope you've got yours repaired at this point. I just wanted to tell you I found a local to us place called UpFix.com that may be able to repair your PCM. They repaired mine, and my A/C is fixed, as well as my EGR and Purge Valve issues.

 

[jbwilli]

jbwilli,​

We've been on this journey together, and I hope you've got yours repaired at this point. I just wanted to tell you I found a local to us place called UpFix.com that may be able to repair your PCM. They repaired mine, and my A/C is fixed, as well as my EGR and Purge Valve issues.

jbwilli,​

We've been on this journey together, and I hope you've got yours repaired at this point. I just wanted to tell you I found a local to us place called UpFix.com that may be able to repair your PCM. They repaired mine, and my A/C is fixed, as well as my EGR and Purge Valve issues.I tried

jbwilli,​

We've been on this journey together, and I hope you've got yours repaired at this point. I just wanted to tell you I found a local to us place called UpFix.com that may be able to repair your PCM. They repaired mine, and my A/C is fixed, as well as my EGR and Purge Valve issues.

Yes, I still have the codes and my next move is to eliminate the ECM and have it tested and repaired! I was able to obtain my tag this year due to being over 65 and driving under 5K miles.... no emissions required in GA if you meet those requirements!

 

[jbwilli]

Yes, I still have the codes and my next move is to eliminate the ECM and have it tested and repaired! I was able to obtain my tag this year due to being over 65 and driving under 5K miles.... no emissions required in GA if you meet those requirements!

OK, I see UpFix in Buford GA. To confirm, you had the EGR, Purge Valve codes AND A/C issues. After repair and return all of your issues have yet to return? No CEL's? No A/C issues? CORRECT? I have the exact same erratic issues plus an occasional THROTTLE POSITIONING voltage code ( orange wrench lights up on dash). If you see this, please repsond. I am ready to take mine to UpFix as I am at my wits end! THANKS!

 

[GB1977]

Jbwilli,
Yes! They were able to take my computer and fix it. I definitely had a wiring issue, which i resolved before they fixed my computer. Now, it's back to normal. The only issue I have now is unrelated (Passenger seat airbag weight rail). Every other code is fixed. I highly recommend Upfix. You can drop it off and pick it back up. Keep me posted, I hope they can help you as well.

 

[jbwilli]

Jbwilli,
Yes! They were able to take my computer and fix it. I definitely had a wiring issue, which i resolved before they fixed my computer. Now, it's back to normal. The only issue I have now is unrelated (Passenger seat airbag weight rail). Every other code is fixed. I highly recommend Upfix. You can drop it off and pick it back up. Keep me posted, I hope they can help you as well.

GB1977: Refresh my memory on what you wiring issue was! ECM harness? Wire colors? To what component/s? THX AGAIN!

 

[GB1977]

It was the ECM Harness. I have the old one in my garage, but haven't done a deep autopsy on it yet. It had an intermittent short between several wires, including the green power wire from Fuse 42 if memory serves, which caused all sorts of chaos between the EGR, O2 sensors and Purge Valve Selenoid. It was presumably deep in the harness around one of the factory splices, because nothing is real evident, even with it on the bench.

I had continuity sometimes between Pins at the ECM connection that shouldn't have continuity. I forgot which pins at this point. I do know it was a real bear getting the old harness out and the new one in. It's the Engine and transmission harness all in one on our explorers.

 

[jbwilli]

It was the ECM Harness. I have the old one in my garage, but haven't done a deep autopsy on it yet. It had an intermittent short between several wires, including the green power wire from Fuse 42 if memory serves, which caused all sorts of chaos between the EGR, O2 sensors and Purge Valve Selenoid. It was presumably deep in the harness around one of the factory splices, because nothing is real evident, even with it on the bench.

I had continuity sometimes between Pins at the ECM connection that shouldn't have continuity. I forgot which pins at this point. I do know it was a real bear getting the old harness out and the new one in. It's the Engine and transmission harness all in one on our explorers.

Did you replace with new or junkyard item? My 2009 harness has 3 CONNECTIONS to ECM. Only the center one is for engine control components as I understand it. The other 2 are for 1) body and 2) drivetrain. I have been concentrating on the wires in the center connection only. I have repaired several wires in my emmision control components (insulation missing at connector ends with bare wires visible ... all repaired and may or may not have been shorted prior to repair). If some were shorted, the may have damaged my ECM and an ECM repair may indeed fix it! My fear is there may be a short somewhere in the harness I have yet to find and if not found and corrected prior to ECM repair, would damage the newly repaired ECM... a catch 22! I will ring out all those wires again. I also unwrapped as much of the harness as I could with the intake installed and found nothing! Oh well, rather than rehash all the items you and I have discussed... I am ready to take the gamble and have the ECM inspected and repaired by UpFix! ...more to come!

 

[GB1977]

Did you replace with new or junkyard item? My 2009 harness has 3 CONNECTIONS to ECM. Only the center one is for engine control components as I understand it. The other 2 are for 1) body and 2) drivetrain. I have been concentrating on the wires in the center connection only. I have repaired several wires in my emmision control components (insulation missing at connector ends with bare wires visible ... all repaired and may or may not have been shorted prior to repair). If some were shorted, the may have damaged my ECM and an ECM repair may indeed fix it! My fear is there may be a short somewhere in the harness I have yet to find and if not found and corrected prior to ECM repair, would damage the newly repaired ECM... a catch 22! I will ring out all those wires again. I also unwrapped as much of the harness as I could with the intake installed and found nothing! Oh well, rather than rehash all the items you and I have discussed... I am ready to take the gamble and have the ECM inspected and repaired by UpFix! ...more to come!

I thought I answered this a while back, I don't think it actually posted. It was a new old stock harness.

 

[jbwilli]

I thought I answered this a while back, I don't think it actually posted. It was a new old stock harness.

I dropped my ECM off at UpFix yesterday! I was impressed with their facility and people. THANKS!