2010 Mountainair V6 Towing Questions

Hey all,

Just picked up a V6 Mountie, with the class II, and have some questions - I did search these forums, but couldn't find answers to these specific questions...thanks for your help ahead of time!

1) The V6 came with the class II setup. I understand that the class III towing package was also an option on this vehicle, and besides the hitch, it came with a different axle ratio. Any other differences? My question is, if I install a class III hitch with my current setup, what is the max recommended towing capacity? Does it increase to 5000 lbs, from the 3500, even without the axle ratio(might be wrong term for that) change? Or is it somewhere in between?

2) I bought a 2011 Jayco 184, with a dry weight of 2700 lbs, max weight 3500 lbs...should I install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler on this setup, or will this vehicle handle that appropriately??

Any other thoughts on this setup?

Thanks!

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Hey all,

Just picked up a V6 Mountie, with the class II, and have some questions - I did search these forums, but couldn't find answers to these specific questions...thanks for your help ahead of time!

1) The V6 came with the class II setup. I understand that the class III towing package was also an option on this vehicle, and besides the hitch, it came with a different axle ratio. Any other differences? My question is, if I install a class III hitch with my current setup, what is the max recommended towing capacity? Does it increase to 5000 lbs, from the 3500, even without the axle ratio(might be wrong term for that) change? Or is it somewhere in between?

2) I bought a 2011 Jayco 184, with a dry weight of 2700 lbs, max weight 3500 lbs...should I install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler on this setup, or will this vehicle handle that appropriately??

Any other thoughts on this setup?

Thanks!

From my understanding, the hitch has little to do with the rating, though the ball mount on the II has its limitations. However, the class III hitch has way more options for ball mounts. The axle ratio has the biggest impact on the tow ratings.

I'd think you should be able to tow the camper no problem, I'd switch to a class III hitch for certain though. Definitely consult your owners manual, check your axle code, see what your vehicle is rated for. My knowledge of the newer Explorers/Mountaineers is very limited.

 

[MountyNM]

Thanks for the input, though I do say some of the methodologies I've read on this forum seem to be based more on an art than a science. I can't believe, as an engineer, that a 5% difference in the ratio makes a 1500 lb max weight difference. The implication is, if I got smaller tires, id be able to tow a bunch more. Seems like specsmanship at best by Ford. I think I will tow this thing, with a temp gauge for tye tyranny, and see how it goes.

 

[jrford]

from what i've read over the years. . . for '06 and up. Hitch changed to a welded to the frame. Class III mounts below. All 3rd/4th Gen’s as far as I know have a big trans cooler already, its mounted between the Rad/Cond near the bottom.

For ’06 and up the V8 got a 3v and more HP/Torque and a 6spd, but only 3.55's. 6spd in the v8 has a real low 1st gear compared to the 5spd, so 3.73's are not needed. The V8's are rated at 7,000lbs.

V6 unchanged with a 5spd and two options 3.55's (non-tow) and 3.73's (tow). But the limited hp/torque of the V6 compared to the v8 limits tow to 5k lbs.

From what the trans guy told me, the difference in 3.55's to 3.73's results in increases in the RPM's which in turn allows the trans clutches to run 'tighter' and therefore last longer. It also gets more into the torque band of the v6. I would assume smaller tires would do the same thing but will they result in 200rpm or so increase?

Back to your original question, "2011 Jayco 184, with a dry weight of 2700 lbs, max weight 3500 lbs". Don't forget Frontal area drag also adds to the weight. How much?? - maybe someone else might chime in? imho i wouldn't want to tow it every day all day. .but a couple times a year shouldn't be a problem.

If your in the hills or the trans is hunting gears I’d keep the O/D off. Some have said they towed 5k without any problems and the smaller gears. I think longevity of the trans is more impacted by the change in ratios not so much ‘pulling power’
Hope this helps.

 

[thebrakeman]

You need to stick you your ratings, unless you change everything, including the welded hitch (or bolt another underneath) an expecially the axle ratio. For that, you might as well just trade in the truck for a V8 model with tow package.

Read this, and your owner's manual:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/rv_trailer_towing/2010/10RVTrailer.pdf

Sticking with this truck, you have 3500 lbs max tow rating, and 8500 lbs GCVWR (combined rating). It is also recommended that you NOT exceed the frontal area of your truck. So right off the bat, your full-height camper is not recommended by Ford.

Typical loaded weights are 600-800 lbs over dry weight. So expect your loaded camper (with added battery, LP, filled water heater, food, clothing, and non-standard options) to be at least 3300 lbs.

Your V6 Mounty (per Edmunds.com) has 4525 curb weight (check your actual weight on the driver door sticker). Add the 3300 lbs camper, and you are at 7825 lbs GCVW, leaving you with 675 lbs for any passengers and cargo in the truck.

As you can see, you will be completely maxed out on weight (maybe over), and trying to pull a barn door thru the wind with a non-tow package drivetrain.

I recommend V6 non-tow package Explorers/Mountys for any popup camper, including the heavier hi-wall models. Some of them can be kept under 3500 lbs, but more importantly, they will slip thru the wind easier without overtaxing the engine and transmission.

Since you now have 2 new vehicles, you likely won't sell either of them. Not a good situation. I would be sure to keep OD turned off to keep the rpm up. Get a ScangageII so you can monitor your engine and trans temps, as well as torque convertor lockup. Letting the convertor lock and unlock is what can really heat up a trans, even if it's not actually shifting gears.

You will need an electric brake controller (you'd need it even if you had the tow package). You'll need to convert the 4-flat connector in the back to a 7-way so you can plug in the camper. Otherwise you will have no trailer brakes working. This may involve running additional wiring front to back (but the wiring MAY already be behind the bumper, just not connected to anything...look for a blue wire, which is universal for brake control).

You are really in a pickle. Best of luck to you. I had to do all of this sort of work (wiring, 7-pin connectors, brake controller) to tow a popup with our previous minivan). If you need help, let us know.