2011 explorer front suspension shake/clunk HELP

[Gamerguy]

So glad I found this place and really hoping that I can try a narrow down a already expensive problem.

So, not long ago my ex (91k miles) developed some sort of clunk - the best way I can describe it- in the front end. It was most noticeable both in feel and noise at slow speeds. The clunk at each bump felt like what I used to experience in a mountain bike when the front fork was toast. Almost like a dead zone at the very beginning of the suspension stroke.

Anyway, I took it to my local midas last weekend, and was told the problem was due to work out struts and that my shocks were likely worn out as well. Being at a highileage, I thought that was likely and paid the $1200 bill.

So Ive put about 250 mixed use miles on her this week, and the clunk is definitely still there and it has developed a very noticeable vibration at highway speeds that can be heard about 50% of the time and can be felt in the steering wheel. There is a visible shake in the wheel no matter what type of road surface. The only thing that seems to affect it is speed, braking, accelerating, turning etc do not seem to make the problem more noticeable.

So, in looking through this great forum I've seen some possibilities such as bad bushings in various suspension members such as the control arm, tie rods, sway bars. (hopefully I got those right, I barely know squat about suspension syatems).

So, does anyone have any ideas? After having tossed a chunk of change in it and seeing no improvement, but a new problem arising, I am very frustrated and want to have an idea of what could be the problem so I don't get bamboozled again.

Thanks so much!

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum Gamerguy.
Did they check the CV joints?

 

[Gamerguy]

Welcome to the Forum Gamerguy.
Did they check the CV joints?

Thanks for the welcome Peter.

I thought I remembered them checking the CV joints, but I could be mistaken. For what it's worth, I crawled under there this morning and yanked on all the suspension members without finding anything that seemed to have undue "play" in it.

 

[londo M.]

As with others that have had the same issue, I did too. It was the strut bearings. The easy diagnosis they used was to put their hands on top of the struts and turn the wheel, if you feel anything like scratching or clunking it was the bearings.
My estimate was 440$ at the dealer for bearings only and another 250 to replace the struts since they have

 

[SHUMAX]

If you are positive the balance is correct - make certain it was road force balanced to under 15lbs on each tire/rim combo on a known calibrated machine - then I promise you it's the rear hydro/compliance bushing on the front control arm. The bushings are about $50 for each front side; however, you need to remove the front lower control arm to perform the repair. With your mileage, I would replace the lower front controls arms, too, as you will get new lower front ball joints as they are part of the from lower control arm.

Replacing that lower, rear, hydro/compliance bushing, as well as the front lower controls arms will make it feel and ride like new.

I've been here and done that. Trust me. It's a chunk of change but will eliminate the clunking and the shimmy.

Shumax

 

[Gamerguy]

Thanks everyone. They are going to check out the strut bearings tomorrow, and I will make them demonstrate the problem before proceeding. If that's not it, we will definitely be looking at the control arm bushings. I keep telling myself it was a good investment to get new shocks and struts to make the wallet sting less, even though I feel like I got played. Thanks again.

 

[SHUMAX]

You did not get played...unless they did not replace the front strut bearings when they made the repair. Otherwise, at that mileage, it was time.

I have money on those control arm bushings...because you mentioned the shimmy. If you are confident the tire/rims are road force balanced, then I bet that's it. Was with mine and made a world of difference. Good luck!!

 

[SHUMAX]

By the way, the front lower rear control arm bushings may appear fine. Mine did. No tears or odd wear. In the end, the rubber that holds the arm steady had worn out/down. Replaced them and the controls arms and all was well, along with a good balance...

 

[Gamerguy]

They didn't replace the strut bearings, I was told they were fine. So yeah. My frustration is nearly palpable in the room.

 

[SHUMAX]

Oh wow. I definitely would start there but the shimmy is not from those. I can assure you of that. I have been down this path on two different 2011-14 models. I sware I should write a book! .

 

[dco43054]

Check the strut that connects the lower control arm to the sway bar.

Rattle from front right wheel area - not A Pillar

 

[SHUMAX]

Yes, that "strut" is the sway bar link. Sometimes called the "stab link." They could contribute to a rattle/knock at low speeds, but not a vibration/shimmy. Good to check those out, too. They don't have to be loose much at all for them to make noise...