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2011 Explorer Moonroof

ExplorerLA

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Joined
November 19, 2022
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City, State
Hermosa Beach, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Explorer XLT
Clogged drains caused water damage to motor. Confirmed both fuses (8 and 38) are good, confirmed 12V at connector, and confirmed switch operation with multimeter. Motor circuit board shows water damage so replaced both motors.

Neither motor shows any activity after replacement. Tried initialization procedure for both glass and shade and neither work. Any thoughts on what to try next?? Thanks!
 



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I bought Motorcraft because I saw a lot of bad reviews of some of the cheaper aftermarket ones out there.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Were both motors bad? It isn't common for clogged drains to cause water damage to the 2 motors. Usually clogged drains result in water pooling in the front or 2nd-row footwells depending upon which drains are clogged. Is this the motor you replaced? 2011-2017 Ford Motor BB5Z-15790-A | TascaParts.com

Peter
 






I had water damaged motors but i also had water coming into the overhead console. The whole roof was clogged and retaining water after any amount of rain. I got my new motors off rockauto they work like oem
 






Clogged drains caused water damage to motor. Confirmed both fuses (8 and 38) are good, confirmed 12V at connector, and confirmed switch operation with multimeter. Motor circuit board shows water damage so replaced both motors.

Neither motor shows any activity after replacement. Tried initialization procedure for both glass and shade and neither work. Any thoughts on what to try next?? Thanks!
Is there any evidence of water damage to the circuit board inside the switch assembly? That’s what happened to mine when the drains froze up/clogged; replacing the switch assembly solved the problem.
 






Is there any evidence of water damage to the circuit board inside the switch assembly? That’s what happened to mine when the drains froze up/clogged; replacing the switch assembly solved the problem.
He mentioned he has 12V at the connector, so the switch must be working? I'm guessing that is the connector to the motor.

Peter
 






Is there any evidence of water damage to the circuit board inside the switch assembly? That’s what happened to mine when the drains froze up/clogged; replacing the switch assembly solved the problem.
No evidence of damage at the switch assembly. I checked the pins at the switch and confirmed the correct open/closed circuit conditions for when each switch is toggled.

The shade motor worked before disassembly, so my first attempt was swapping that into the glass position to be able to close the glass but that did not work. There was a bit of water damage on that motor circuit board (but not nearly as bad as on the motor for the glass), so I figured I would just get two new motors and replace them both and thought that would solve my issue.

@peterk9 - are you suggesting it might be the connector from the harness to the motor? Seems odd that both of them would be bad, no? I have tried both new motors connected to either harness (i.e., for glass side and for shade side) but nothing seems to work.
 






Does the original shade motor still work if u plugged it into the shade harness?

Also is the glass off track? Its stuck open how far?
 






Does the original shade motor still work if u plugged it into the shade harness?

Also is the glass off track? Its stuck open how far?
The original shade motor does not work now when plugged into the shade harness.

The glass is not off track. With the motor removed I was able to slide it forward to close it by hand. Same with the shade (with motor removed).
 






...................................

@peterk9 - are you suggesting it might be the connector from the harness to the motor? Seems odd that both of them would be bad, no? I have tried both new motors connected to either harness (i.e., for glass side and for shade side) but nothing seems to work.
No, I was referring to the connector that plugs into the motor. If you have power there when the switch is activated, the motor should work unless you somehow ended up with 2 bad replacement units which seems unlikely. Also, when you tried using the original shade motor and it didn't work, did you check that there was power at the connector? Could have blown a fuse.

Peter
 






I went back through all my troubleshooting with a second set of eyes and we are both at a loss. Two new motorcraft motors installed, but get no motor activity when toggling switches post-install or when trying to run either the glass or shade initialization procedure.

  • Confirmed both fuse 8 and 38 are good
  • Confirmed 12V at connector to motor at pin 1 through fuse 8 (always hot) and at pin 2 through fuse 38 (hot when ignition is turned on)
  • Confirmed correct open/close circuit continuity at the pins coming out of the switch for all switch toggle scenarios
  • Confirmed voltage at connector to motor for open, close, and tilt conditions on pins 5, 6, 7 - this voltage was appx 10V not 12V - is that a sign of a different issue?
  • Both glass and shade move freely in track when motors are not installed, so don't seem to be stuck anywhere
Is there another circuit board or driver somewhere that I am missing? Seems like if switch is functional and I get voltage at the connector to the motor, it should work...
 






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