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2013 key fob problem

bluexlt2013

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2013 xlt
I lost the auto door unlock when i walk up to my explorer, is there a way to reprogram it ?
 



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Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
The Explorer doesn't have an auto-unlock feature that unlocks the doors when you approach the vehicle. You have to manually unlock it with the key or the 'touch' handle (keyless entry) or by using the Securicode keypad or the keyfob.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
The Explorer doesn't have an auto-unlock feature that unlocks the doors when you approach the vehicle. You have to manually unlock it with the key or the 'touch' handle (keyless entry) or by using the Securicode keypad or the keyfob.

Peter
Sorry but it does. Both my remotes work that way, except 1 all of sudden lost that function.
 






Do you have a keyed ignition or push button start?
 






Sorry but it does. Both my remotes work that way, except 1 all of sudden lost that function.
Are you saying that your Explorer will unlock all by itself as you approach it? Neither my 2011 Limited nor 2017 Platinum did that. Not even my 2020 Aviator does it. They all required some kind of intervention from the driver like using the keyfob. It's not even mentioned in the Owner's Manual.

Peter
 












Then you have passive entry. It will unlock when you reach to grab the door handle to open. If its unlocking before hand the system is malfunctioning.

Does the fob that isn't working still start the vehicle (in the emergency start slot)? Do the physical buttons (lock, unlock, remote start, etc) work?
 






Then you have passive entry. It will unlock when you reach to grab the door handle to open. If its unlocking before hand the system is malfunctioning.................................
That would explain the self unlocking which as I explained above, the Explorer doesn't have. Perhaps it's just a misinterpretation of the actual action?

Peter
 






Sorry but it does. Both my remotes work that way, except 1 all of sudden lost that function.
No matter what features it does or doesn't have, if you are sure that both remotes previously worked the same and now one does not, it is not likely to be a programming issue, UNLESS you had just previously been messing with key programming and did not include this key in the reprogramming.

Otherwise, I'd check to see if the battery is just drained or it got wet or otherwise failed.

If the feature does depend on pressing a button, it could just be that the button is gunked up, you could try opening it and cleaning the area. The type of buttons that are silicone rubber, can ooze silicone oil that fouls the carbon contacts on it and the circuit board. Sometimes wiping with a dry paper towel is enough, other times a scrub with strong detergent solution helps (with battery removed and completely dried before battery reinstalled).
 






Just be careful when cleaning. There is a dielectric type grease on the battery that the Manual says should not be removed.
 






^ Apparently that keeps the buttons from being too sensitive to press, I would sooner get it clean anywhere near the button contact area to be sure that's not a problem, then come back and put dielectric grease on if an overly sensitive button issue arises, especially considering you may lose some grease anyway changing the battery.

If a button didn't need to be pressed for this feature, then I would lean towards the battery itself being low... 7-8 year old battery, it's probably a good idea to replace it now anyway, not much remaining lifespan lost for the low cost of those.

Those CR2032 lithium coin cells can have a shelf life over 10 years but in use, not as long. If you need multiples for various other devices too, they're much cheaper on ebay in bulk rather than buying one at a time at a local store. If getting them on ebay, try to buy from a seller which high volume sales to ensure they're fresh.
 






Then you have passive entry. It will unlock when you reach to grab the door handle to open. If its unlocking before hand the system is malfunctioning.

Does the fob that isn't working still start the vehicle (in the emergency start slot)? Do the physical buttons (lock, unlock, remote start, etc) work?
i have been getting key fob not detected and not turning over
 






i have been getting key fob not detected and not turning over
Does that happen with both keyfobs? Do you have anything plugged into the power or USB ports? Usually that only affects remote start.

Peter
 






Have you at least opened and inspected it, and tried a new battery?

I can't speak about these specifically, but a lot of electronics became more prone to water damage after a switch to water soluble flux manufacturing. Some flux residue can be left behind and sometimes it isn't all that visible, only an issue if it gets wet and then water beads as it dries.

Water produces an acidic solution that leaches metal off the components and solder points, then dries to concentrated conductive shorts on the PCB, which can be a temporary problem in some cases and permanently damaging in others. It would look like dried saltwater.
 






Have you at least opened and inspected it, and tried a new battery?...............................................
Well it seems it took 14 posts to actually ask the question. I can't believe it didn't occur to me before. I guess we were too focused on the automatic auto-unlock feature which it doesn't have. Good call.👍

Peter
 






^ Apparently that keeps the buttons from being too sensitive to press, I would sooner get it clean anywhere near the button contact area to be sure that's not a problem, then come back and put dielectric grease on if an overly sensitive button issue arises, especially considering you may lose some grease anyway changing the battery.

If a button didn't need to be pressed for this feature, then I would lean towards the battery itself being low... 7-8 year old battery, it's probably a good idea to replace it now anyway, not much remaining lifespan lost for the low cost of those.

Those CR2032 lithium coin cells can have a shelf life over 10 years but in use, not as long. If you need multiples for various other devices too, they're much cheaper on ebay in bulk rather than buying one at a time at a local store. If getting them on ebay, try to buy from a seller which high volume sales to ensure they're fresh.

The grease will not impact sensitivity of button presses, the switches behind the button pad will naturally become more easy to activate as they are cycled (many cycles) and will seem to become more "sensitive" over time. Even to the point of locking or unlocking your car just rattling around in your purse/pocket when you are in range of the vehicle.

The grease is there to protect the internal fob power contacts to the battery. It minimizes oxidation at that contact->battery joint which can cause intermittent operation of the remote which can be maddingly difficult to troubleshoot. Hence the direction in the Owner's Manual to preserve the dab of grease at that point.
 






^ I'm skeptical of both reasons. Plenty of other remotes. and other devices. need no dielectric grease in the same coin cell against PCB contact configuration, including my other vehicle fobs which have never oxidized.

It is not so hard to troubleshoot contact oxidation, merely measure resistance between the battery and the contact on a spot adjacent to where it touches the battery, or just clean it and try again. The resistance measurement won't work well on high current circuits (then a voltage drop measurement is needed) but a button cell isn't high current and after a cleaning attempt, would have to be quite bad, would be visually evident.
 






This is what the Owner's Manual shows under Replacing the Battery.

Note: Do not wipe off any grease on the
battery terminals or on the back surface of
the circuit board.


Peter
 






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