2016 Explorer - Blowing Battery Saver/Demand Lamps Circuit Fuse | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2016 Explorer - Blowing Battery Saver/Demand Lamps Circuit Fuse

1SLwLS1

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April 25, 2022
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City, State
Montgomery, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Explorer Limited
My wife has a 2016 Ford Explorer Limited and has been a great car, up until recently (multitude of issues but I will keep this on topic). As of late, with doors closed and with power, the map lights would not come on when pushed, this also affected the second row lights, etc. With a door open, they would come as expected and work somewhat normally. In this condition, the third row light would not power on in any case. I could also make the map lights and 2nd row lights come on with the button by the dimmer.

I did some research and found the Battery Saver - Demand Lamps circuit (#1) with a blown 10A fuse. I replaced the fuse and thought that was the end of that but the next day, it stopped working and it blew that fuse. The fuse I used was rather old and possibly frail so I replaced it again with a much newer fuse, which lasted about 1.5 days before popping.

It will work seemingly fine before popping and I cannot determine what action causes the fuse to break. This last time I replaced the fuse was this past Sunday afternoon and it worked as expected that afternoon and I had my wife test it out Monday when taking the kids to school and picking them up - all worked like normal. Then this morning on her way to school, the map lights stopped working on demand so I assume the fuse popped again (will verify again this evening).

Anybody have any similar experiences or diagrams to help with diagnosis?

Other information (relevance unknown): I am not sure of the circuitry but in the interest of transparency, she has a phone charger plugged in up front (USB), along with the cords to the kid's DVD players (cigarette lighter). I don't think this issue is centralized to the map lights, its just that the map lights are the indicator of the issue as the kids don't mess with the 2nd/3rd row lighting. It may be something with the 3rd row light since that one stops working entirely. With that said, late last year/earlier this year, she did have some sunroof leakage under heavy storms due to clogged drains. I was able to snake the drain lines with weed-eater wire and prevent any additional damage but there was water in the liner and down on the passenger floor, twice - I am sure this has some relation to the newest issue, but don't really want to drop the headliner without knowing what I am looking for.
 



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Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
A fuse can blow if there is a short or an overload on the circuit it is designed to protect. Although I don't see the connection between the power ports, the USB port and the demand lamps, have you tried unplugging everything for a few days to see if the problem persists? If you do this and it seems to be okay, then start by utilizing either the power ports or the USB port for a few days before connecting all of them.
A more likely reason could also be that there is an intermittent short. That would explain why everything will sometimes work for a while.
The reason the interior lights work when the doors are opened is because they are on a separate circuit (courtesy lamps).

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
A fuse can blow if there is a short or an overload on the circuit it is designed to protect. Although I don't see the connection between the power ports, the USB port and the demand lamps, have you tried unplugging everything for a few days to see if the problem persists? If you do this and it seems to be okay, then start by utilizing either the power ports or the USB port for a few days before connecting all of them.
A more likely reason could also be that there is an intermittent short. That would explain why everything will sometimes work for a while.
The reason the interior lights work when the doors are opened is because they are on a separate circuit (courtesy lamps).

Peter
Thank you, Peter.

I am guessing there is a lot tied to this circuit as it is the battery saver circuit as well - I have attempted several searches for reliable wiring diagrams and have come up empty. Before I commit to alldata (DIY) - I am wondering if anyone has run across anything worthwhile. I used to use the Haynes/Chilton manuals back in the day, and had mixed results, but I don't know if they would be any better.
 






Just to follow up with the issue that I had, incase it is helpful to anyone else along this path, here is what happened on mine:

When testing circuits for continuity, as the rear cargo lamp only came on when the fuse wasn't blown (I figured maybe that circuit board had some issues), I discovered none of the rear power seats were working. I couldn't change the position of the third row, nor could I power fold the second row captains chairs.

When I went into it further, I tried to put in a larger temporary fuse and noticed they were blowing immediately, so my issue is short to ground. I had an old blinker socket (3 wire) and bulb from my trans am so I connected both hot leads to the positive battery terminal and I connected the ground lead to the load side of the faulty circuit on the BCM. The light illuminated and I simply unplugged loads from the circuit until the light went out. Wouldn't you know it, it was also the last load on the circuit that ended up being the culprit, the drive side visor-vanity/homelink.

When I started to unscrew the torx screws holding the visor in place, the bulb started to flicker and when I unplugged it, the light went out. With the short indicator light still plugged in (to act as a fuse to complete the circuit), I plugged in the power seat control module and switch and it was working. Everything was working now (before only some of the demand lamps would work), the glovebox light, rear cargo light, massage seats, etc.

I simply left the driver side visor unplugged as she doesn't use homelink or the vanity light. I hope this helps someone else along the way! I am just glad this fix didn't end up costing me a BCM or battery junction box, or PSCM.
 






Appreciate the follow-up. You'd be surprised how many don't bother. :thumbsup:

Peter
 






Appreciate the follow-up. You'd be surprised how many don't bother. :thumbsup:

Peter

I try to always follow up. It seems I always find someone who has my exact same problem and goes down a deep through thread only to be silent once the problem is presumably resolved.
 






I try to always follow up. It seems I always find someone who has my exact same problem and goes down a deep through thread only to be silent once the problem is presumably resolved.

Thanks for posting this!

I have a 2016 Explorer Limited and I have a similar issue. It started with the Homelink going out... I thought it was just broken, so I was living with it... but then, I got a flat tire -- 2 STATES AWAY! I finally figured out after an hour in an Advance Auto parking lot, that Fuse 1 not only controlled the Homelink, but the vanity lights and (low & behold) the switch for the 3rd seats -- of course I had the seats flat, so I had no way of actually getting to my spare tire until I replaced the fuse.
Well, over time Fuse #1 blew again and again, so being tired of it and liking to actually be able to open my garage door, I finally decided to see what would happen if I put a bigger rated fuse in (I went with a 15A).
This lasted a while longer, but it too blew out a few days later. I decided to go back to the 10A, but this time when I put the fuse in, it would IMMEDIATELY spark and blow the fuse. I thought it was me, since you have to be a contortionist to actually install the fuse, but after blowing 3 fuses in a row, it finally hit me that something else was wrong.
Since I read this, I went ahead and removed the drivers side visor and replaced the 10A fuse *without issue*. I will update on the progress of this, I was just happy to be able to push buttons and move the rear seats up and down again :)
 






Thanks for posting this!

...................................................................................
Since I read this, I went ahead and removed the drivers side visor and replaced the 10A fuse *without issue*. I will update on the progress of this, I was just happy to be able to push buttons and move the rear seats up and down again :)
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
It could be that you have a problem inside the visor. Possibly a short. Did you put the visor back but unplugged?

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
It could be that you have a problem inside the visor. Possibly a short. Did you put the visor back but unplugged?

Peter

Right now, I have left it disconnected. I was going to run like this a few days just to see if anything else is causing the issue and to give me a chance to disassemble the visor. Logic would tell me that this is probably the culprit, because I'm constantly using the visor and sliding it out to cover the sun. Where I live, the sun just seems to always be on my left, in my face, to and from work everyday.

Are there any repairable parts in the visor, or should I just replace the entire thing?

Thanks!
 






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Are there any repairable parts in the visor, or should I just replace the entire thing?

Thanks!
I've never taken one apart but the most likely issue may just be a shorted wire which should be easy to repair. BTW if you should opt for a new one, Levittown is a forum vendor and offers members a discount. Good luck.

Peter
 






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