220k Exploder Limited 2wd 4.6 with 6R60

[StevenStebo]

So far after 220,000 miles the only things to go wrong with my limited V8 has been a radiator cap, and the heater hose assembly Y (which I replaced with a Gates T. Also I had to replace the sticking front calipers and trashed the Prostop Platinum Ceramic pads and went with Oreilly Semi Metallics. You would never have known there was a braking problem unless you had to make a high speed stop where I had to stand on the brake pedal and made me change my skivvies! There was also a random vibration when braking sometimes. I am easy on my brakes, so they usually last over 60k. Also tell tale signs of black heat spots on the rotors with minor cracking. I replaced the rotors with new ones. The brake fluid was green so I flushed it with new DOT3 synthetic fluid also. The original Ford serpentine belt had cracks so I replaced that and a grooved idler pulley.

Last oil change I went cheap and did 5w30 Shell conventional oil with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and a Bosch filter. Boy what a mistake that was! I had the tensioner rattle on cold startups. I change the oil every 5000 miles and it came out golden. This oil change I went with 5w20 semi synthetic and a Wix filter and the rattle is gone. No additives this time!

PS. On another issue I had was what I thought was a hydraulic follower or lifter on the passenger side and pulled the valve cover, removed all the cam towers and checked each and every lifter and 12 rockers. All was fine and the engine was clean as a whistle inside. Turned out my loud ticking was a loose a spark plug Autolite HT1's. Reinstalling the spark plugs with boot grease and antiseize fixed that problem and hasnt come back. Also installed a new Accel coil set.

Of the 30+ automobiles I have owned in my lifetime, this is the best one yet!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Nice to hear from a satisfied owner rather than someone p!ssing and moaning about a problem that may have been avoided if they had done proper maintenance. (Obvious that you maintain your ride).
Interested in your opinion of the HT1 plugs.
Any issues with the 6R60?

 

[Snakehn]

I am experiencing that weird vibration when braking and replaced break pads last year, so that went away by replacing the calipers or the rotors?

2006 XLT V6 here

 

[63falcondude]

Did you hear the ticking only when you apply the throttle? I have what sounds like the same thing.

 

[StevenStebo]

Nice to hear from a satisfied owner rather than someone p!ssing and moaning about a problem that may have been avoided if they had done proper maintenance. (Obvious that you maintain your ride).
Interested in your opinion of the HT1 plugs.
Any issues with the 6R60?

Thanks Bill! You are correct! Reliability on brand is a myth, proper maintenance is what makes cars reliable. My Exploder is like brand new! (Except a few unavoidable door dings.)

The transmission fluid is changed every 50k. The software was updated not a year or so after purchased. The HT1 Autolites are fine plugs. Every once in a while I have a lope, not a misfire and running some Seafoam through the tank and blasting pedal to the metal getting on the highway clears it up. Idles so smooth you cant tell the engine is running.

 

[StevenStebo]

I am experiencing that weird vibration when braking and replaced break pads last year, so that went away by replacing the calipers or the rotors?

2006 XLT V6 here

I had the rotors turned about a year before I started noticing heat cracks and black and blue heat spots on the front rotors. Turns out after removing the rotors the pads had uneven runout (thinner at the bottom than the top). After just replacing the ceramic pads with semi metallic thinking the ceramic were causing the hot spots, the wheels were nearly locked up as I tried to bed the new pads and burnish them.

Calipers were locked up.

 

[StevenStebo]

Did you hear the ticking only when you apply the throttle? I have what sounds like the same thing.

The ticking was loud at the drive through and louder applying throttle. Thank God it was just a couple loose plugs! I thought I had a serious problem.

You MUST use anti-seize and boot grease on the plugs or they will back out on you. Trust me! And change them on a cold engine!

 

[StevenStebo]

 

[StevenStebo]

 

[63falcondude]

That's a beautiful ex you've got. Love the color. Also got a laugh at the beer pic. I have noticed lately that I can't work on Eddie without an emergency 6-pack for when he's being difficult...

I narrowed the clicking down to the back of the passenger side fuel rail. When I hold a long screwdriver to it I can feel it the most. I want to say it is one of the back two injectors. Nothing coming from the valve covers or any of the spark plugs.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Hi Steven -
Gorgeous Limited.

My EB has 198k miles, and has been so far very good to me, but now I am facing some major issue with the engine.
It makes a bad noise when hot, and in gear. Not sure if I need new engine or rebuild the timing components or something else.

I welcome any experts to listen to those and share your thoughts:
In gear:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Snj08sHQHd0

In Park

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXMQ0scxcWc

 

[StevenStebo]

Hi Steven -
Gorgeous Limited.

My EB has 198k miles, and has been so far very good to me, but now I am facing some major issue with the engine.
It makes a bad noise when hot, and in gear. Not sure if I need new engine or rebuild the timing components or something else.

I welcome any experts to listen to those and share your thoughts:
In gear:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Snj08sHQHd0

In Park

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXMQ0scxcWc

I've heard that noise many times while researching my ticking noise. That is the dreaded VCT cam phaser failure. Make sure you get 5w20 in it if not already running it. Either way you will have to pull the timing cover and do the phaser job.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks, I have been using 5/20.
I figured at almost 200k miles, it is at its last leg. I have heard of f150 doing this at 70k.
Thanks anyway, it's just proves how sensitive those engines are to the oil quality. My fault is also that I let the quick place use their filters, I should have brought a Motorcraft filter every time.

I exchanged few notes with a Ford technician on JustAnswers, and this is what he said:

loud ticking noise in the valve train area. This may be caused by a stuck/collapsed lash adjuster.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
5L1Z-6500-A Adjuster Assembly

This also may be caused by a bad vct Variable Camshaft Timing actuator solenoids. located on the front of the engine. It moves the cam phasers and when bad will stick the cam in a position that causes this concern. The vcts cost about 60 dollars a piece for parts one under each valve cover attached to the cam phasers to make them move.

unfortunately you are going to need to remove the timing drive chain components and the cam phasers to replace them. I would also replace the cam phasers at the same time since you will have to remove them to replace the vct.

If it is always only happens in drive or reverse and is ok otherwise then this is a bad vct solenoid or a bad cam phaser. The cam phasers are not in the position they should be causing this concern. the vct and cam phasers move the cam for better performance and emissions. the draw back is if the cam is in the wrong spot you will get the noise and erratic idle. I would also check your oil pressure in Drive or reverse if your oil pressure is low from a worn engine then you will also get this same results. they cam phasers move the cam using oil pressure. If the oil pressure is low the cam cannot move to the correct position in drive or reverse. With the mileage on your engine I would check the oil pressure first in drive, if the oil pressure is low you are looking and needing a new engine.

And then:
Unfortunately these engines had a lot of issues with oil pressure and cam phasers form 2004 to 2008. Otherwise these engine should not go bad for a long time. In the future I would avoid these years of engine in the 4.6 and 5.4. I do not see that many concerns after 2009.

 

[StevenStebo]

Thanks, I have been using 5/20.
I figured at almost 200k miles, it is at its last leg. I have heard of f150 doing this at 70k.
Thanks anyway, it's just proves how sensitive those engines are to the oil quality. My fault is also that I let the quick place use their filters, I should have brought a Motorcraft filter every time.

I exchanged few notes with a Ford technician on JustAnswers, and this is what he said:

loud ticking noise in the valve train area. This may be caused by a stuck/collapsed lash adjuster.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
5L1Z-6500-A Adjuster Assembly

This also may be caused by a bad vct Variable Camshaft Timing actuator solenoids. located on the front of the engine. It moves the cam phasers and when bad will stick the cam in a position that causes this concern. The vcts cost about 60 dollars a piece for parts one under each valve cover attached to the cam phasers to make them move.

unfortunately you are going to need to remove the timing drive chain components and the cam phasers to replace them. I would also replace the cam phasers at the same time since you will have to remove them to replace the vct.

If it is always only happens in drive or reverse and is ok otherwise then this is a bad vct solenoid or a bad cam phaser. The cam phasers are not in the position they should be causing this concern. the vct and cam phasers move the cam for better performance and emissions. the draw back is if the cam is in the wrong spot you will get the noise and erratic idle. I would also check your oil pressure in Drive or reverse if your oil pressure is low from a worn engine then you will also get this same results. they cam phasers move the cam using oil pressure. If the oil pressure is low the cam cannot move to the correct position in drive or reverse. With the mileage on your engine I would check the oil pressure first in drive, if the oil pressure is low you are looking and needing a new engine.

And then:
Unfortunately these engines had a lot of issues with oil pressure and cam phasers form 2004 to 2008. Otherwise these engine should not go bad for a long time. In the future I would avoid these years of engine in the 4.6 and 5.4. I do not see that many concerns after 2009.

Go forth! And dive into the wild blue yonder young man! Get that phaser job done and you will be happy again! The 4.6 3v is the BEST modular engine ford ever produced with the highest flowing oil pump of all versions! That dieseling sound you are hearing is the phasers locked in a advanced timing state causing the knocking sound. I bet when you're on the highway and in the pedal it runs good, no?

I did extensive reading about hot rodding these engines and they are the sherman tank of engines! While all makes of cars have their caveats (ins and outs), your problem is MINOR! If you can find a Mustang speed shop, they will do the job cheaper than a dealer or an unknown mechanic because the repetition of this job makes them better than anyone else!

Check out this link on your problem, and make sure you get upgraded chain guides!
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/115

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks Steve -

Great idea about a Mustang shop, that's what I like about these engines, parts are common and available everywhere.

 

[63falcondude]

That's a beautiful ex you've got. Love the color. Also got a laugh at the beer pic. I have noticed lately that I can't work on Eddie without an emergency 6-pack for when he's being difficult...

I narrowed the clicking down to the back of the passenger side fuel rail. When I hold a long screwdriver to it I can feel it the most. I want to say it is one of the back two injectors. Nothing coming from the valve covers or any of the spark plugs.

Turned out that the ticking was an exhaust leak coming from a hole in the passenger side exhaust manifold.

 

[Explorer_PL]

For those who missed my post a year ago - explanation of the noise, now I laugh about it, was not that happy back then.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ngine-out-twice-in-a-month-long-story.427980/