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3.0 Cooling Issues

atlranger

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The 3.0 in my Ranger started to overheat last weekend and now I am stumped. The truck temp needle will run dead cold for the first 5 minutes or so and then shoot strait up to just bellow H and start to fluctuate wildly all the way up hang out at the middle all the way down over and over. The heat comes and goes. Every time this has happened and I pulled over the overflow tank cover was blown off and the coolant was pouring out yet when I open the radiator cap, which will be under a great deal of pressure, there is nothing but steam. The coolant is dirty brownish color but not oily. The oil is completely clean, it only has about 1k on it and it is not foaming or have any white residue on the bottom side of the cover.

After going though as much of this website as I could at work, I replaced the thermostat with a 195 one at the beginning of the week of course I naturally assumed that is what it was and chucked the old one with the trash taken the next morning so I never got to actually test it. I filled it up and took it for a drive of 10 miles or so and ran perfect. Then the next morning on my way to work, 8 miles no highway, it overheated the same way and blew all the coolant again. I did not have the time touch it other than baby it along all week until last night when I figured it must be the new thermostat was bad and probably the rad cap so I got new ones but I also picked up a new pump for S&G's.


I tore it all down and flushed every hose the radiator and heater core and they flowed file with no leaks. Pulled off the radiator and belt and the pump feels great so I decided not to replace it, plus what a PITA. Tested both thermostats and they opened at exactly the same temp between 195 and 200. So I am stumped. Put it all back together and used 1 gal of antifreeze and clear water. Took it for a drive and just like the other test drive ran great but the overflow tank, which I drained and 1/2 filled with just clear water, was full of the brown crap water like before. Now I am stumped!

Now I am thinking it is a blown head gasket, but clean oil with no burnt smell??? What else should I test. Not wanting to just throw tons of part, money and time at the problem, none of which I have right now. The truck has 160k on it, do I need to just think about picking up a re-man and dropping it in? I only use it for my 8mi commute Home Depot runs and parking at the airport when I fly out for work.

Sorry about the super long post I'm stumped and of course I have put enough money and time into this one I cannot just dump it and get a new one so any help is greatly appreciated.
 






First off check to make shure there are no air pockets in the motor I have a funnel adapter that I bought on the tool truck years ago that attaches to the radiator in place of the cap. I have not seen them localy but I think they are called FunLfill. Next I would check for a blown head gasket. I have seen countless amounts of 3.0 head gaskets go south. To check this either get a radiator psi testor and install (do not apply presure) start engin. If you start building presure within the first 60 seconds or so the head gasket is blown or cracked head. You could also inspect the plugs any that are clean or greenish could also indicate a blown head gasket. Lastly my favorite method you can get a tester to check for a blown head gasket that works by simply adding the supplied fluid to the tester (that resembles a turkey baster with two chambers). With the engine running and the cap off plact the spout over the radiator opening and pump, if the fluid turns green the head gasket is blown. I also dont know if this tester is avalable locally byt it has saved me lots of headache in determining head gasket failyer. Also on 3.0, 3.8, and4.0 head gasket failyer almost never produces milky oil if the engine is in sound condition otherwise. One more possibility I have seen, and due to your rusty coolent problem this may be possible, I have seen the impeller on the water pump rusted off also broken loose and spinning. I personaly make it a rule to change the water pump when doing head gaskets becayse of the posibility of water pump shaft seal failyer after it has been under hi temp conditions. Good luck if your head gasket is blown make shure to have a machine shop check the heads for cracks and warpage.
 






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