95 xploder 4.0 Cooling Issues / Cold Temp Gauge - Help

[roccov12345]

Hi all,

Here's my issue..... 1995 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHC. Truck was leaking antifreeze all over the driveway so I figured I bring it into the garage for some routine maintenance while I resolved the antifreeze issue. Replaced the plugs (PITA), wires, belt tensioner (bearing was shot), new belt, air filter, oil change. After completing the listed items I took the car for a spin to make sure everything was good to go, which it was. Next onto the Antifreeze leaking issue.

Seemed like it was leaking from the bottomg of the thermostat housing. Got in there and pulled off the housing to replace the thermostat just for good terms. I tested both the new thermostat and the orignial t-stat and both of them opened up upon boiling temp in the pot. The new one opened a little quicker. Changed out the t-stat, with the proper gasket and installed with the air release valve in the 12o'clock position. Put a little RTV sealant on the T-stat housing, beautiful no leaks. Well now my temp gauge will not operate in the normal mid range like it used to. It runs around C then drops down to the below cold level. So I figured maybe the thermostat is stuck open (nope) not the case. So I check to make sure my coolant temp sender and sensor are plugged in nice and tight (all good). Now I'm kind of stumped, I sat there for about a good two hours last night in the freezing cold trying to "burp" the cooling system to make sure I had no air in there. Let it run without the rad cap on, sat the truck on an incline, repeated, same issue. The rad is full with antifreeze as well as the resorvoir. My next guess was possibly the water pump or radiator. When the truck warms up and the thermostat opens you can feel the surge in the upper radiator hose, gets pretty hot. Now the one thing I don't understand is.........the upper radiator hose gets hot as it should but I did notice that the lower rad hose stays as cool as it was when I first started the car. The driver's side of the radiator is COOL, while the passenger side is HOT. After driving for about 20 minutes I could actually put my finger into the rad neck and touch the antifreeze without burning my skin off. I guess my real question, could it possibly be the water pump even though I can feel it surging in the upper rad hose, or could I possibly have a clogged up radiator. Keep in mind that everything seemed sound before I changed the t-stat.

Any thoughts? I pre-thank anyone who posts, you guys are the best.

 

[roccov12345]

You guys sleeping today?

 

[Rhett]

zzzzzzzzzzzz

 

[Rhett]

So how is the truck running? Notice any difference in the way it's running from before and after changing the stat?

 

[roccov12345]

So how is the truck running? Notice any difference in the way it's running from before and after changing the stat?

Truck is running like it always has, no real difference. Still have the problem with the temp gauge though. I'm going out to the garage right now. Another night here I come.

 

[roccov12345]

I guess my biggest problem here is having any confidence in the gauge. We all now how "iffy" some of the coolant temp gauges can be with Fords. I would leave it as is but it was working correctly before I performed these simple routine maintenances. It might actually be telling me something lol.

 

[Bill Kemp]

Just to ask...You put the rubber sealing ring on the t-stat? The t-stat is positioned correctly w/spring assy going into the engine?
Did the guage read correctly before?

 

[gijoecam]

I'm a little confused.... you mentioned that you used the one with the purge hole, and you mentioned that you used some sealant on the housing, but I thought all the SOHC motors used a t'stat without a purge hole, and the housing used an O-ring to seal?

The radiator sounds normal.... it SHOULD be hot where the coolant goes in and cool where the coolant goes out. If it wasn't, I'd be worried.

When you refilled it, you used a 50/50 mix, correct? (have to ask...)

Still thinkin'.....

-Joe

 

[roccov12345]

Back and completed. Thanks for all the replies. To answer some of the questions I did use the normal t-stat with the valve and the gasket, I just doubled it up with rtv sealant where the housing meets the engine. Well here was the story I changed over the engine temp sender still same deal, so I ran a wire directly from the new sender to the (can't remember the color) gauge wire behind the dash. Voila, back to normal. I'm not sure if the wire was possibly shorting somewhere, maybe with all the fluid from the t-stat install/uninstall and install again. Seems to be working as it was, I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks!

 

[Rhett]

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz I'm still sleepin. It must be civics or history class.

 

[roccov12345]

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz I'm still sleepin. It must be civics or history class.

Wake up Fool!

 

[MONMIX]

sounds like a water pump to me

 

[gijoecam]

sounds like a water pump to me

Somebody didn't read the entire post.

He fixed it. Wiring problem between the sending unit and the gauge.

-Joe

 

[MONMIX]

dont mind me
I am just practisning my typing,,,

( I said typing, not spelling )

 

[MONMIX]

sleep typing,,,,,, cool skill

 

[Rhett]

haha MONMIX you are so fast, and you'll be the only one to see that post. haha
I slept thru this thread so much that I forgot it was "problem solved"