3 of the 4 door locks don't lock/unlock | Ford Explorer Forums

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3 of the 4 door locks don't lock/unlock

koda2000

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The driver's door will lock/unlock using the remote or master switch. The front passenger lock makes noise like it wants to work, but doesn't. Neither rear door will lock or unlock.

Does the '01 ST suffer from the corroded pink wire splice, like the other Gen II Explorer SUV's?

On a side note, while programming the remote, when I was done (key was still in ignition, but was in LOCK position, the dash lights came on and went off of two or three times. Then stayed off as normal. I couldn't tell if it did this just when I tried the remote. Never seen this before. Any thoughts what could cause this? Ignition switch? A relay? It should be noted that I was using a remote that was already programmed to one of my other vehicles. I don't see what difference this would make.
 



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Haven't had any broken door hinge wires, but it's also a common failure with the ST. My lock issues were three actuators and two front latches at less than 60,000 miles. The latches were cleaned and lubed frequently. If the actuator is buzzing it's usually the sound of nylon gears slipping or a latch rod binding. Also make sure the rivet holding the actuator bracket isn't broken. If you need replacement actuators the link below is from my 2005 and your 2001 should be the same. On a side note, looking at the pics you previously posted, your oil dip stick appears to be on the drivers side and you have the newer Job 2 engine. (2001 ST build date
after 6/24/2000)

Door Lock Actuator Motors Identical
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426643
 






The rivet broke on my drivers side. I used a bolt/nut to secure in place. I did it the hard way- bolt head on door skin and nut on inside/actuator bracket. Then I seen online best to have bolt coming from the inside and nut on the outside…wow really (don't know what I was thinking). Do know it took forever to start the threads holding the nut inside just right.

I had troubles with the rear doors but was more of sticky locks and child fool locks mixed. Was able to spray and work it. Has been fine since, I try to make it a habit if I remember to spray them every now and again.

My damn drivers door creaks, even a couple weeks after I spray the hinges.
 






Same had the rivet break on the passenger door for the lock actuator, and it was hanging loose, after I fixed that, it locked/unlocked no problem. I also later ran into a broken wire in the driver's door boot which needed fixed, no problems since.
 






Funny I just asked you about door locks in your other thread. I had the rivet break on my driver door as well. Ive "fixed it in various ways but every time it just ends up breaking again. Eventually I'll need to get a new mechanism I suppose since opening the door from the back is quite the pain with an sas/soa.
 






Funny I just asked you about door locks in your other thread. I had the rivet break on my driver door as well. Ive "fixed it in various ways but every time it just ends up breaking again. Eventually I'll need to get a new mechanism I suppose since opening the door from the back is quite the pain with an sas/soa.

I don't recall you ask about door locks. Maybe I missed it. My passenger front door probably needs a new actuator. It makes the noise swhawaii described (like stripped gears). The rear doors don't do anything. So I'm thinking a broken wire on them.

I JB Welded my broken fog light bracket and got it reinstalled today. It came out good. I polished up my one dingy headlight to make it match the newer one. Did some gas tank related cleaning, but was busy with other stuff today. I'm hoping to get the running boards off tomorrow and take apart the driver's side rear door with the window that's off its track.

This truck was listed as a "mechanics special" and boy is it ever. I just keep finding more and more stuff that needs fixing. It's kinda hard to believe one vehicle could have so many problems, but I'm up to the task and that's why it was so cheap. At least most of the repairs I've made so far have cost little or nothing but my time, but I'm sure that will change once I get it running & driving. 4 tires, new windshield, body mount bushings, driver's seat leather repair, lock actuators and maybe a window regulator. I still think I can make a couple of grand flipping it, so it's okay as long as I don't loose money.
 






Funny I just asked you about door locks in your other thread. I had the rivet break on my driver door as well. Ive "fixed it in various ways but every time it just ends up breaking again. Eventually I'll need to get a new mechanism I suppose since opening the door from the back is quite the pain with an sas/soa.

Ah, now I see you door lock question. No, not yet, but stay tuned. BTW, is this really an problem if you don't have any doors...?

I know there's a rivet that you have to drill out and the actuator either hooks into the door latch or has one of those yellow clips connecting it to the latch.
 






Haven't had any broken door hinge wires, but it's also a common failure with the ST. My lock issues were three actuators and two front latches at less than 60,000 miles. The latches were cleaned and lubed frequently. If the actuator is buzzing it's usually the sound of nylon gears slipping or a latch rod binding. Also make sure the rivet holding the actuator bracket isn't broken. If you need replacement actuators the link below is from my 2005 and your 2001 should be the same. On a side note, looking at the pics you previously posted, your oil dip stick appears to be on the drivers side and you have the newer Job 2 engine. (2001 ST build date
after 6/24/2000)


Door Lock Actuator Motors Identical
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426643

Sooo, I'm thinking this is a plus?
 






Yes, I think more for the chain tensioners being updated from a job 1? It's 1 of the 1st things I noticed in your photobucket, I was trying to see if your cruise control/brake recall was done but couldn't tell.
 






Believe the biggest difference is the Job 1 has an aluminum intake and throttle body versus the Job 2 composite plastic. The PCV setup and oil filters (FL1A vs. FL820-S) are also different. Only mentioned this to avoid confusion when you are buying engine parts. Not sure regarding timing chain improvements, could swear that happened for 2003 and later ST's. I'll do further research, it would be good info for many ST owners on the forum.
 


















Yes, I think more for the chain tensioners being updated from a job 1? It's 1 of the 1st things I noticed in your photobucket, I was trying to see if your cruise control/brake recall was done but couldn't tell.

No, the recall for the brake/cruise control was never done. Every Explorer/Mountaineer I've purchased (with the exception of my '01 EB) has NOT has the recall done. Back to the Ford dealer it will go when running.
 






Ah, now I see you door lock question. No, not yet, but stay tuned. BTW, is this really an problem if you don't have any doors...?

I know there's a rivet that you have to drill out and the actuator either hooks into the door latch or has one of those yellow clips connecting it to the latch.

It wouldn't be but that was a long time ago. Now it's got all the doors back on sadly.
 






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