JonathanExp
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- August 26, 2018
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 23
- City, State
- USA living in AUS
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 explorer limited
here are my pics and my write up for a 3rd gen dual battery setup.
i had the local metal fab shop weld it together based on my design. the tray accommodates my 850 cca battery (7.5"w x 12"l x 7.5"h) and my 82 amp hour deep cycle battery (7"w x 10"l x 9"h). i use the second battery to power my rear 12v power panel (3rd Gen Rear 12v/120v Power Panel) mostly for my fridge. this setup requires moving the main fuse/relay box back alongside the brake booster to make room for the batteries. i also needed to slightly move around (flatten out) the wires running under the battery(s), extend one of the main positive wires coming out of the fuse/relay box to the main battery, and install a dual battery isolator. getting two batteries in there is tight so expect to spend some time to make sure you are not hitting the front a/c line, the brake booster, or the hood (keep that + post covered!). i also wanted to have my fuses right at the post so that took a while to find the right solution (used an Iveco battery terminal) for my starter, alternator, lights, stereo, isolator, etc.
finally, i installed a thin sheet of rubber between the bolt points on the tray and frame and installed rubber hose around the threaded battery tie downs.
if i had to do it again, i would ask the fab shop to make the bolt mounts at the bottom of the tray larger to create more surface area to spread out the weight. i have done some off roading since then and there has been no bending of the metal but a larger bolt area would not hurt.
just remember to cover the + positive battery leads with something when test fitting your design. hitting the hood with a + lead would be a disaster.
test fitting the fuse/relay bracket to angle it just right. the most forward facing bolt uses a factory threaded bolt hole. i cut a slice in the metal for the middle part of the bracket and used a self tapping screw for the back bolt.
just enough lean to clear the hood strut.
laying these wires flat so the tray can be as low as possible.
test fit at the fab shop. used locking bolts on the bottom of the 3/8" threaded rod. i also drilled holes on the tray sides for zip ties.
back from the powder coaters.
with isolator mounted on the firewall.
i had the local metal fab shop weld it together based on my design. the tray accommodates my 850 cca battery (7.5"w x 12"l x 7.5"h) and my 82 amp hour deep cycle battery (7"w x 10"l x 9"h). i use the second battery to power my rear 12v power panel (3rd Gen Rear 12v/120v Power Panel) mostly for my fridge. this setup requires moving the main fuse/relay box back alongside the brake booster to make room for the batteries. i also needed to slightly move around (flatten out) the wires running under the battery(s), extend one of the main positive wires coming out of the fuse/relay box to the main battery, and install a dual battery isolator. getting two batteries in there is tight so expect to spend some time to make sure you are not hitting the front a/c line, the brake booster, or the hood (keep that + post covered!). i also wanted to have my fuses right at the post so that took a while to find the right solution (used an Iveco battery terminal) for my starter, alternator, lights, stereo, isolator, etc.
finally, i installed a thin sheet of rubber between the bolt points on the tray and frame and installed rubber hose around the threaded battery tie downs.
if i had to do it again, i would ask the fab shop to make the bolt mounts at the bottom of the tray larger to create more surface area to spread out the weight. i have done some off roading since then and there has been no bending of the metal but a larger bolt area would not hurt.
just remember to cover the + positive battery leads with something when test fitting your design. hitting the hood with a + lead would be a disaster.
test fitting the fuse/relay bracket to angle it just right. the most forward facing bolt uses a factory threaded bolt hole. i cut a slice in the metal for the middle part of the bracket and used a self tapping screw for the back bolt.
just enough lean to clear the hood strut.
laying these wires flat so the tray can be as low as possible.
test fit at the fab shop. used locking bolts on the bottom of the 3/8" threaded rod. i also drilled holes on the tray sides for zip ties.
back from the powder coaters.
with isolator mounted on the firewall.
