3rd Row Power Button cover / disable switch needed | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

3rd Row Power Button cover / disable switch needed

I'm surprised Ford haven't address this yet considering the fix could be as simple as a cover of some sort. Even my dealer admit it is a bad design as she had accidentally folded while her grandkids are in the third row.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Ford installed several logics into their software to disable the 3rd row seat power-fold but they did not go far enough. I do not understand their reasoning. So I decided to installed a disable switch on my 2014 ford explorer this week. I removed the 12 volt power receptacle and replace it with a switch. I wired it so the switch will control the power going the power-fold switch panel (wire color is white/green). When I have time I will post pictures and detail instruction if anyone is interested.
 






Ford installed several logics into their software to disable the 3rd row seat power-fold but they did not go far enough. I do not understand their reasoning. So I decided to installed a disable switch on my 2014 ford explorer this week. I removed the 12 volt power receptacle and replace it with a switch. I wired it so the switch will control the power going the power-fold switch panel (wire color is white/green). When I have time I will post pictures and detail instruction if anyone is interested.

Yes, please post your solution!
 












Did this over a year ago. Works perfect. Sorry for the bad video. I'm not sure why it is reversed. Oh, I mention that you have to have the accessory power on which is not true. The body control module shuts power off after a door or tail gate is open to long to save the battery.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xe91P6hSPwo
 






Hey nice elegant solution! Where did you source the switch from?
 






Great idea, thanks for the video!
 












SPST Lighted Rocker Switch - RadioShack.com

SPST Lighted Rocker Switch
Model: R-13 135B
Catalog #: 275-692

Yes MikeFreas tells it all, great video. MikePaul this is the switch I used (see above). I replaced the bulb with a 12 volt neon so it lights up(no need too). I removed the 12V power receptacle by gently popping the two plastic catch without breaking it and push the receptacle towards the cover. I trimmed the edges of the switch (just light sanding) so it will rest on the groove where the 12 power receptacle used to be. Then I spot hot glue (back) to hold it in place. Sorry I don't have time to post the pictures (I am on travel).
 












Completed mine today. I chose a not lighted switch and kept the cigarette lighter intact. I drilled/cut a hole in about 2" above the lighter. On my 2013, I spliced the switch into the brown wire which comes off the "Normal" switch.

Should have done this a long time ago, never had a problem, but now I can't for sure.
 






After kids, pets, and cargo bumped the rear seat up/down switch far too frequently - I happily found this thread. I purchased a Radio Shack 275-646 red spst momentary switch and installed it between the light and the switchplate. Works great. Picture below. Some additional comments:

* I have a 2014 Explorer Limited, and yes - it's indeed the brown wire that gets spliced into the new switch. Thanks for the tip, txaggie!

* Instead of a rocker or pushbutton switch that could be accidentally left on, resulting in further accidental seat button pushes and seat movements - I opted for a momentary switch. Now it is a two finger operation, one to push and hold the new button, and the other to push and hold the desired seat button. If you pick a good switch location, you can definitely do this singlehanded.

* The same switch is available with a black button, which I thought about - since it would blend into the car interior. However, I decided it would be helpful to be able to see the red button more easily in low light conditions.

* By putting the pushbutton switch between the light and the switchplate, it is on the trim that is facing downward 45 degree angle. It's in the recessed area of that light, and generally unlikely to be bumped by anything at exactly the same time as one of the seat switches. Again, it's a two step operation now. Press and hold new button while pressing existing seat selector button, then you can let go.

I also purchased some 64-3131 crimp connectors to put on the cut wire and some wires I soldered on the switch.

----> >-----switch----> >-----

The benefit in doing so is that I can pop the switchplate out and reconnect the spliced wire back together if need be. Further, I didn't want to directly solder the cut harness wire directly to a switch.

IMG_20131201_161538449.jpg


Solution works - but Ford really should design something better. Having exposed push buttons in the cargo area is asking for trouble, when a single tap activates the seat in motion. I think the two best production solutions would be to either require the button to be continuously pressed to keep the seat in motion (but runs the risk of leaving a seat in an awkward in-between position) or ideally some sort of clear plastic cover that gets flipped up to access the buttons.
 






After kids, pets, and cargo bumped the rear seat up/down switch far too frequently - I happily found this thread. I purchased a Radio Shack 275-646 red spst momentary switch and installed it between the light and the switchplate. Works great. Picture below. Some additional comments:

* I have a 2014 Explorer Limited, and yes - it's indeed the brown wire that gets spliced into the new switch. Thanks for the tip, txaggie!

* Instead of a rocker or pushbutton switch that could be accidentally left on, resulting in further accidental seat button pushes and seat movements - I opted for a momentary switch. Now it is a two finger operation, one to push and hold the new button, and the other to push and hold the desired seat button. If you pick a good switch location, you can definitely do this singlehanded.

* The same switch is available with a black button, which I thought about - since it would blend into the car interior. However, I decided it would be helpful to be able to see the red button more easily in low light conditions.

* By putting the pushbutton switch between the light and the switchplate, it is on the trim that is facing downward 45 degree angle. It's in the recessed area of that light, and generally unlikely to be bumped by anything at exactly the same time as one of the seat switches. Again, it's a two step operation now. Press and hold new button while pressing existing seat selector button, then you can let go.

I also purchased some 64-3131 crimp connectors to put on the cut wire and some wires I soldered on the switch.

----> >-----switch----> >-----

The benefit in doing so is that I can pop the switchplate out and reconnect the spliced wire back together if need be. Further, I didn't want to directly solder the cut harness wire directly to a switch.

Solution works - but Ford really should design something better. Having exposed push buttons in the cargo area is asking for trouble, when a single tap activates the seat in motion. I think the two best production solutions would be to either require the button to be continuously pressed to keep the seat in motion (but runs the risk of leaving a seat in an awkward in-between position) or ideally some sort of clear plastic cover that gets flipped up to access the buttons.
Welcome to the Forum gadgetinspector.:wavey:
It would help the members if you added the model of your Explorer to your profile so that it will show in the left margin where your name is. Not all models are the same or always have the same issues.
Also your picture is waaaaaaay too big. I had to use the up/down scrolling to see it. Posted pictures should not be larger than roughly 800X600 at the most.

This button issue has been a reported problem since the 2011 model came out but nothing has been done by Ford to address it.

Peter
 






Completed mine today. I chose a not lighted switch and kept the cigarette lighter intact. I drilled/cut a hole in about 2" above the lighter. On my 2013, I spliced the switch into the brown wire which comes off the "Normal" switch.

Should have done this a long time ago, never had a problem, but now I can't for sure.

Pretty much did what you did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Euqzjvyzl9Q
 






Hi jmdavispdx,

I want to touch base with you and see how things went at your dealership. Additionally, I want to arrange for your regional customer service manager to call you. To get started, send me a PM with your VIN, dealer, mileage, daytime phone number, and full name. I'll get to work on your case.

Thanks,

Crystal

Crystal;
I also have a 2012 Ford Explorer which has the same problem with the power seats activating accidentally when moving cargo around in the back.
The right will will not stow as it jammed when cargo was in the way when it accidentally powered up.
Any help or guidance would be helpful.
 






Crystal;
I also have a 2012 Ford Explorer which has the same problem with the power seats activating accidentally when moving cargo around in the back.
The right will will not stow as it jammed when cargo was in the way when it accidentally powered up.
Any help or guidance would be helpful.

Please see PM sent to you.

Thanks
 






16 Explorer 3rd Row Button Cover

I know there is some chatter about this, and I always told myself I'd be careful but yesterday I literally almost crushed my dog in the seat. Both were in the stowed position, and wile loading the car I accidentally hit a button. It started to fold. I used my hands to stop it from moving, then I tried to get it back to stow, but it has to go through a full reset, it doesn't just move down the same amount it moved up.

There has to be a solution to this.

I have a 3D printer at home I use for some modeling things. Thinking of designing a small cover that can be double sided taped over the buttons. Maybe translucent. Or with grooves. So you can see. With enough room to stick your fingers in and hit one. Any thoughts?

Ford made a big mistake by leaving those exposed.
 






If my memory serves me correctly, any resistance when the seat is starting to fold/stow; doesn't it just stop and goes back upright?
 






No. it sort of just stops where it got stuck. Backs up a little...

Regardless. It shouldn't start moving anyway unless intentional
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If my memory serves me correctly, any resistance when the seat is starting to fold/stow; doesn't it just stop and goes back upright?
The tailgate does. The 3rd row seats function like a "trash compactor". ;)

Peter
 






Back
Top