4.0 ohv engine rebuild | Ford Explorer Forums

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4.0 ohv engine rebuild

Golf Freak

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April 18, 2005
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City, State
Vancouver, Wa - by way of (Trinidad, TX)
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Limited Plum, 82 Supra
I have chocolate milk for oil on my dipstick, so I am guessing something is wrong. Hehe. I have searched this whole site along with Ranger Station and the internet and have come up with out any good step by step info for rebuilding the 4.0. Please do not tell me about the 5.0 swap and to use search, I like the 4.0 and it is my fault for the rebuild because the way I drove it. I would by a book but the chiltons are useless so if anyone knows the best book (or anything) to buy for a rebuild I would appreciate it. Thank You


P.S. I have read Dougs article and it is usefull but I need specifics.
 



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can't help you with a book, but if you head for a ford dealer they should have all the specs available for torques, patterns, clearances and so on. There are a dealers up here, I normally have them photo-copy the relevent pages when I need them, depending on how busy they are and who's in at the time, they normally do it free, but sometimes they ask a few cents per page They also have repair manuals available, but factory manuals always assume that you have access to all the factory manuals, so some critical process may only be covered by a reference to another manual they assume you have.

Don't have a clue as to your experience level, But being an overhead valve, it'll be a pretty standard rebuild, no multi-cam alignment issues, so pretty much any rebuild manual will get you through it, Check out the automotive section at the library, they should have plenty of books on the subject.

ken.
 






Get a new 98-00 OHV from a salvage yard with low miles and swap it in. You'll get a quick swap with great power, nothing more then stock really, and it won't take more then a weekend to do.

Later Doug
 






doug what about computers? what would you have to do to swap old to new OHV's
 






Change a bunch of sensors overs, I just swapped a crate 1999 ohv into my 1991, wasn't hard, just take your time and lable everything. Hell the hardest part is the exhaust manifolds, torque converter nuts, and the engine to trans bolts. Lining up the engine to the TC is a PITA too. Don't forget to pick up a flywheel or flexplate when you get the motor. One post of dougs told me everything I needed to know.I'll find it for you.
 






Doug904 said:
Well, being that it is a OHV to OHV swap it's pretty straight foward like before mentioned but there are a few differences that can confuse a simple guy.

1) The intake studs in the fuel rail are longer because the plastic intake is thicker the the aluminum one, this really doesn't matter except for the front stud, you have to put the nut on the stud before you put the throttle cable bracket back on.

2) The CMP drive and/or sensor. All 95-00 will have this and use it,the 91-94 4.0's either won't have it OR you will have a different style. If you older truck doesn't have it then I wouldn't even take it off the block, it doesnt hurt anything sitting there.

3) All of the sensors, and don't forget the crank sensor in all of this. The temp sensors in the front of the intake must be swapped as well and finally all of the wiring harness from the vehicle it is going in must be used. Like before mentioned their won't be a low oil level sensor on a 98 and newer 4.0 so you'll either have to swap pans or not worry about it and let the wire hang, or tie it up out of the way. I think I would know before the oil level got low enough to trip this light anyway so I wouldn't worry with it.

4) The Exhaust manifolds must be used from the older Explorer but there too they bolt right up. On a 98 and newer there will be exhaust studs that must be removed from the heads, they won't work in the early model exhaust manifolds.

5) Upper intake and possibly fuel rail if your using a 98up returnless system. You can use the new injectors, don't remove them but the rail itself must be changed. Also the 96-up OHV's have a plastic spacer plate below the fuel rail and you must reuse this plate between the lower intake and fuel rail or the injectors will bind up and you'll get an vacuum leak because of the difference in height.

6) Finally the flywheel on a 98up are 8 bolts, you can use the new style flywheel on the old style transmissions no matter whether it's an auto or manual. Now if you have a C4 behind it that's a whole different ball game but I doubt anyone else has ran into this problem, if you do I have a special made flywheel lying around ;).

That's all I can think of right off hand but it's a very straight foward swap. It's the same basic long block just the heads are different. The exhaust ports on the 98up's will be smaller then your old ones but dont worry with that on a stock setup.

One important thing to remember is you can go late model to early model but you can't go early model to late. The reason being is the number of engine mount bolts on the side of the blocks. They used new castings for new bolt locations every couple of years and it's very specific on that. The way this goes is pretty much...

91-94 used one bolt setup
95-97 another
98-00 the final

You can use the 98-00 on any year model but the 95-97 can only go back, not foward.

Thanks, Doug904


Happy swapping!
 






will my current 66mm throttle. 70mm MAF bolt up to the 98-00 OHV?
 






Wow, I really wasn't expecting all this info and I greatly appreciate it. I was wondering if I just have to rework the heads, would it be more cost effective to forgo the swap and also does anyone have experience with used 4.0's out of wrecked (etc.) explorers with relatively low miles (80,000 +).
 






Golf Freak said:
does anyone have experience with used 4.0's out of wrecked (etc.) explorers with relatively low miles (80,000 +).


wrecks are actually the best thing to buy junkyard motors out of, try to find a centerpunched one, or a slightly damaged one, normally there's NO damage to the engine on them, with strong headons you sometimes have trouble from the accident that don't show up till later, and you can't tell without tearing them down,( and if you're gonna tear it down anyway, save money/trouble and tear down the one you have! )

if you get one from a 'driveable' car, you have to ask yourself, why it's in the junkyard?

ken.
 






http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/CologneV6manual.htm

Found a copy of the ford cologne V6 manual, should work, as the 28 through 4.0 are cologne v6.

Have to get home and download it on something other than dial-up, GF has no concept of internet speed!

ken.
 






bates, i think it is worth mentioning the problems that you have been having with your swap. may be somethings that other people can correct before they decide to go with a swap
 






I have had some problems, but I think they are all parts that I either messed up from stupidity, clumsiness, or parts that wer worn out to begin with.

Stupidity :misoiling my K&N
Clumisiness: dropped my MAF
And the o2 sensor was bad.

I'll know for sure tomorrow if I got it fixed now.
 






I was wondering why some (actually quite a few) posts say that there is a prob with the computer (91-94) controllling the newer engines, Yet the one guy who it seems you can trust (doug) on this site didn't address it as being an issue. I hope that didn't sound bad I guess I am wondering if there is much history on the longevity of an engine controlled by an older puter (91-94).
 






no its just that i dont believe it has been done alot. i could be wrong though. i hope it does work because i might need to do that same thing in the future.
 






Ya its fixed now.
 






Most problems with older computers and newer engines come from using the newer sensors and so on with the 'old' computer, a lot of the sensors use different reference voltages and so forth. swapping the sensors from the old engine takes care of that.

ken.
 






OK why are the newer engines better

Are they stronger, more HP....is it just easier to find a newer lower milage engine. I am about to do a swap in my 94 Explorer 4X4 and I want to gather as much information as possible before spending money and getting into the job.

Thanks
Dwight P
 






Pdwight: The gain in power isn't worth switching the motor for but it is there I believe..like 5 or something. I think the mileage is why most would/will do it. Senors are just as easy to change as, say, a pcv valve, so it's not a big deal. The reason I chose to do it was because the engine I happened to find on ebay was a 99 and still in the crate complete, real lucky.

If you have any other questions, just post, I'll answer as many as I can.
 






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