4.6 Engine Removal Tips Request | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

4.6 Engine Removal Tips Request

Mistrmech

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
City, State
Long Island
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Explorer XLT
Hi All, My motor just went and I plan on replacing it myself. I am a fleet mechanic so I am fully capable of handling this job. I researched the procedure on my alldata and it directs that the trans crossmembers be dropped and the cats be completely removed. I have yet to crawl under the truck and see if this is really necessary. I would appreciate any feedback from fellow members on how you removed your engine. How is access to the bellhousing bolts? Any special tricks anyones has learned to make the job easier? I have an XLT 4.6 4WD. Hope to hear from some of you guys. Thank You
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Use a hoist with a load leveler. Use the 2 alt bolt holes in the front of the block for the front chains. Take out the top 2 trans bolts and thread bolts into the holes from inside the valley to attach the rear 2 chains. Also only use 2 or 3 links of chain at each mounting point, you want it pretty low.

You don't have to remove the cats or decharge the ac. Just unbolt at the manifolds and drop the compressor off the bottom.
 






Hi, Thanks for your feedback, How is it getting to the bellhousing bolts?
 






Bellhousing bolts aren't bad, actually. The top two were easier to get to from above for me.

If you don't pull the radiator (either by itself, which is not easy, or as an assembly with the trans cooler and AC condenser), be very careful to not drag the harmonic balancer across it. I did that and had to replace the radiator. The distance between the radiator and the rear upper edge of the engine compartment is very tight, and you'll probably drag the flexplate across that edge.

The starter is a little tricky to get to; it's easier if you pull the tire and get at the upper bolts through the wheelwell.

Getting the engine back in while aligning with the torque converter and the frame mounts is tricky and requires a fair amount of patience.
 






Hi All, My motor just went and I plan on replacing it myself. I am a fleet mechanic so I am fully capable of handling this job. I researched the procedure on my alldata and it directs that the trans crossmembers be dropped and the cats be completely removed. I have yet to crawl under the truck and see if this is really necessary. I would appreciate any feedback from fellow members on how you removed your engine. How is access to the bellhousing bolts? Any special tricks anyones has learned to make the job easier? I have an XLT 4.6 4WD. Hope to hear from some of you guys. Thank You

how'd you make out? I'm about to pull the 4.6 out of my 2002 limited. I have most of the electrical harness disassembled now and the driver side exhaust manifold. Can the engine be pulled with the driver side exhaust manifold still on it? I've already disconnected the exhausts at the manifolds. Can the whole engine and tranny be removed as one? I've read mixed things about that being possible. The radiator will definitely be coming out prior to pulling.

I have access to a 2 post lift in my father's garage, I figured I'd just use the lift arms to pull the engine out and slowly roll the car backwards while slowly raising the arms...thoughts?
 






Nope, Engine must come out by going up. The engine compartment is a single welded unit tied to the cab. The engine must be separated from the transmission and hauled out over the body/frame that the radiator bolts too.
 






I haven't started any work on it, been bombarded with work. Once I get this one job out of the way I will get cracking on it. Thanks to everyone for their input.
 






I haven't started any work on it, been bombarded with work. Once I get this one job out of the way I will get cracking on it. Thanks to everyone for their input.
Hello, Thought I'd make a post and let you know that I replaced my engine. I left the a/c compressor, power steering pump and exhaust manifolds on. I did remove the compressor hose assembly completely out of the truck. I disconnected all the wiring and pushed it off to the driver side of the truck. One thing I did which I believe was a great help was to remove the driver side fender liner, with that out I had great access to two of the bellhousing bolts. I was also able to pry the left side of the engine up over the motor mount during removal. this was also an aid when installing for watching the alignment of the engine to the trans. The right lower bellhousing bolt blocked by the trans cooler lines I was able to remove with a box end wrench. The job wasnt bad at all, also, I accessed the torque converter bolts through the bottom inspection plate and not the side hole on left, just turn the engine so nut lines up with indentation in oil pan. Yes remove the rad and condenser as an assembly. I did this job on my back without a lift but had access to a forklift which was used as my engine hoist, gave me unlimited lifting height. If you have any other questions drop me an email. Good Luck
 






Hello, I'm looking at pulling a good 4.6 out of an '03 to put into my '02 with bad 4.6. Is there any issue with going from 03 motor into 02 truck?
 






Featured Content

Back
Top