4405 08 T-Case Problems - Need Help

[Equnoxe]

Hey, i dont know how to best describe the problem. i know its the transfer case because i can hear the noise coming from in it (after i just spend three hours replacing both HUBS and the Left CV half-shaft and welding the lower ball joint into it proper place)

it feels like its trying to engage but its just getting half way engaged and grinding.

i would like to try to rebuild this myself, has anyone got a "guide" or any pointers?

its going to probably cose me an arm and leg to get it rebuilt at a shop or get one off another explorer.



any input would be greatly appreciated...

 

[gmanpaint]

welding the lower ball joint into it proper place)

Why? If this one goes bad, then what?

it feels like its trying to engage but its just getting half way engaged and grinding.

If the shift motor went bad, it could be as simple as it not moving it into the proper position.

If the clutch pack went south, might as well start shopping for a used one.

 

[Equnoxe]

the guy who did the ball joint before me screwed it up somehow, and it was loose in the socket (it would shift around), so it was either weld it, or replace the whole arm. i put in brand new ones, and they are greaseable so they should be good for along time.

I'm guessing 4x4, the dial has Auto 4x4HIGH 4x4LOW

 

[gmanpaint]

Search shift motor repair. Try that first.

 

[Equnoxe]

ok thanks, so if the shift motor rebuild doesn't fix it, then i should just pick up a used one?


(PS sorry I'm not very good at the technical lingo, but I do know my way around the truck)

Thanks
-Andy

 

[gmanpaint]

Whoa! One thing at a time. Slow down a bit. After you find out if it is the shift motor or not, THEN we can explore other options. The shift motor is a common problem, and should be the first thing you look at. It might be able to be fixed for a couple bucks, or replaced for less than $100.

 

[gijoecam]

Simple thing to check the shift motor. There is no need to rebuild it. Shift motor failures on second-gens are notoriously rare since they are not used for lockup (only range selection). The thing to check is simply to remove the motor and verify that the shift rail is pointed in the proper direction. If so, it's either a shift rail bore wear issue, or the shift fork wear issue. Either way, you're likely looking at $500-$1000 to rebuild it.

The clutch is not the issue, I assure you. You can replace yours with a used one (which, to answer the next question, the only one that will be a direct swap for you is one from another 97), but that one will (eventually) fail in the same manner.

 

[gmanpaint]

In the last 6 months, I have had a shift fork issue, a clutch pack explode, and seen a 2nd gen shift motor fail.

The shift fork issue was repaired, the blown clutch resulted in replacing the entire case, and the shift motor gone bad was fixed by replacing it with a new one.

With the experience's I have had lately, I wouldn't rule out anything from the start.

 

[Equnoxe]

ok so i finally found out it is the cardan joint, is it possible to replace this with a different shaft with a better type of joint?? (double-cardan)


what are my options??

-Andy

 

[gmanpaint]

ok so i finally found out it is the cardan joint, is it possible to replace this with a different shaft with a better type of joint?? (double-cardan)


what are my options??

-Andy

The drive shafts dont fail often in a rig that is not beat to death on the track or trails. I would just go get a replacement from a junkyard, and swap it out. Replace the U-joints at the same time since you will have it off, and for peace of mind.

 

[Equnoxe]

i do beat the crap out of it though i've taken it over logs and mud pits and extremely rocky terrain lol, just got some nice tires and its impressive for stock. how much was the drive shaft you posted?

 

[gmanpaint]

Call around the local yards for a price.

 

[gijoecam]

The drive shafts dont fail often in a rig that is not beat to death on the track or trails. I would just go get a replacement from a junkyard, and swap it out. Replace the U-joints at the same time since you will have it off, and for peace of mind.

Actually, the CV joint on the front driveshaft of a 97-01 wears out eventually. The CV head is not servicable.... Either need a new shaft or need to have a driveline shop cut the CV head off the shaft, weld in a new one, and re-balance it. Last I checked, that ran about $200. IIRC, someone on here was able to locate replacement parts and rebuild their existing CV head, but I honestly couldn't tell you who, where, or how much.

 

[gmanpaint]

Good luck with whatever you do.

Unsubscribing.

 

[Equnoxe]

so I replaced the drive shaft, (when i took it out the noise went away so i figured that was the problem), and now that I put the replacement, the problem is back.