4L Eddie B Explorer rear end "skipping"/"skating"

[Zagnut]

Hello ExForum!

Bought my gf a used (see title) today. In great shape, higher than average miles, but runs/shifts fine.

BUT... something wonky is going on with the rear driver side. Been googling this for a couple days, with no solid answer.

When a bump is hit, the rear kicks out to the right. Can feel it's driver's side. It "feels" like the rear slightly bounces up, and upon contact, losing traction, repeat. It's a skipping/hopping feeling. The traction control light does not come on (yes it works, made sure on initial test drive).

The rear is pretty bouncy in general, so I'm thinking sway bar end links and shocks/springs. But wondering if ABS sensor might be a culprit. ABS light doesn't come on when it happens, and it works as well.

Looks like front sway bar end links and bushings we're replaced recently, but not back. It was dark, so I couldn't really see bushings that well.

Grew up working on cars, have access to cheap parts (gf works for a parts distributor, so 20% off, hence why I bought it).

I'm more of an engine guy, so any input would be appreciated.

Thanks! Cheers and beers!
Aaron

 

[boominXplorer]

Check the rear struts for leaks. If there is any oily residue on them they are bad.

 

[gdgiordano]

Doubt it’s abs. As booming said check your struts. Links are also a good thing to look at

 

[michael loibl]

Almost certainly rear struts. Have someone else drive it around 40 or 50 mph while you follow behind it. Try to keep your eyes on the rear lower control arms and I’ll bet you you see rapid bouncing up-and-down on even mild bumps.

 

[Zagnut]

Check the rear struts for leaks. If there is any oily residue on them they are bad.

Doubt it’s abs. As booming said check your struts. Links are also a good thing to look at

Thanks guys, I'll try and look at those today if the rain stays away.

Almost certainly rear struts. Have someone else drive it around 40 or 50 mph while you follow behind it. Try to keep your eyes on the rear lower control arms and I’ll bet you you see rapid bouncing up-and-down on even mild bumps.

Michael, I was thinking the exact same thing with a follow vehicle. And you added more description to the issue. It's a VERY rapid "bounce" when the rear kicks out, even on the smallest bumps at 30+mph.

Is it necessary to replace the coils as well? If they aren't broken, can the springs go bad?

 

[Beachcomber86]

It is absolutely the struts! Your vehicle is 12 years old and the struts have probably been shot for at least 3 to 4 years, so the springs have been carrying all the vehicle weight. So, replace the springs too. Just did mine with Monroe quick struts. Buy them from RockAuto they are the cheapest. Buy before the end of April and Monroe has a $100 dollar rebate!

Oh, and do all 4.

I should have done this years ago. Rides like it's new and much quieter!

 

[Zagnut]

It is absolutely the struts! Your vehicle is 12 years old and the struts have probably been shot for at least 3 to 4 years, so the springs have been carrying all the vehicle weight. So, replace the springs too. Just did mine with Monroe quick struts. Buy them from RockAuto they are the cheapest. Buy before the end of April and Monroe has a $100 dollar rebate!

Oh, and do all 4.

I should have done this years ago. Rides like it's new and much quieter!

Thanks comber. And thanks for the monroe recommendation. I did some searching on the forum last night and saw a bunch of different preferences; KYB, Bilstein, rancho, but no mention of Monroe.

It's my girlfriends vehicle and shes lucky enough to actually work for an auto parts distributor (Autowares) and gets 20 or 25% off parts as employee discount.

I'll have her check what her cost would be vs Rock Auto + rebate.
Did you get your rebate yet? How long did it take? I've had bad luck with rebates.

Thanks!

 

[Beachcomber86]

Been less than 4 weeks, so no news on the rebate.

Good luck on getting yours right.

I've put about 1500 miles on mine the last 2 weeks and all is well!

 

[Zagnut]

Update...
Can get the Monroe Quicks for the same price as RockAuto. Will be replacing stabilizer links same time, probably with Moog Polyurethane "problem solver" links.

Do I need to have the rear re-aligned after doing this?

 

[Beachcomber86]

Update...
Can get the Monroe Quicks for the same price as RockAuto. Will be replacing stabilizer links same time, probably with Moog Polyurethane "problem solver" links.
I'd like to do the ball joints too, but that will have to wait.

Do I need to have the rear re-aligned after doing this?

A 4 wheel alignment is recommended after replacing the struts. You have to disconnect a lot of stuff to take them off.

 

[Beachcomber86]

I'd replace all 4 sway bar links. If the back ones aren't broken yet, they will break within a couple of weeks of fixing the front. At least that is what mine did! :-/

 

[Zagnut]

I'd replace all 4 sway bar links. If the back ones aren't broken yet, they will break within a couple of weeks of fixing the front. At least that is what mine did! :-/

Fronts are brand spanking new. No need to. Although I'm sure by looking at them, the seller opted for the cheapest. Appear to be plain black rubber bushings. But, since I need to do front brakes next, might replace them. Need to crawl under/lift it and check the ball joints.
Old girl tracks straight, doesnt pull, nothing seems "off" in the front.

However...when I got the new front tires yesterday, they pointed something out to me. At some point, the steering knuckle decided to mill/grind the inside of the stock rim. Appears to be stock knuckle, since it has aluminum ground onto it.

I know it was in an accident in driver side. I ran an auto check, and not Carfax, on the VIN before hand. Auto check is usually a little more detailed, and cheaper. Crawled under before buying, saw no evidence of frame damage.

Me thinks the accident was caused partially by the blown rear struts,messed up the front geometry (which feels and looks like it's been fixed).

For now, I need to focus on the rear suspension, front brakes, and the P0240 code it threw yesterday. Seems to have developed an exhaust leak, sounds like it anyways.

I don't mind minor things. I'm mechanicically inclined and do just about anything aside from welding (don't have a welder) and transmission rebuilds (been there, f that!).

 

[Beachcomber86]

Fronts are brand spanking new. No need to. Although I'm sure by looking at them, the seller opted for the cheapest. Appear to be plain black rubber bushings. But, since I need to do front brakes next, might replace them. Need to crawl under/lift it and check the ball joints.
Old girl tracks straight, doesnt pull, nothing seems "off" in the front.

However...when I got the new front tires yesterday, they pointed something out to me. At some point, the steering knuckle decided to mill/grind the inside of the stock rim. Appears to be stock knuckle, since it has aluminum ground onto it.

I know it was in an accident in driver side. I ran an auto check, and not Carfax, on the VIN before hand. Auto check is usually a little more detailed, and cheaper. Crawled under before buying, saw no evidence of frame damage.

Me thinks the accident was caused partially by the blown rear struts,messed up the front geometry (which feels and looks like it's been fixed).

For now, I need to focus on the rear suspension, front brakes, and the P0240 code it threw yesterday. Seems to have developed an exhaust leak, sounds like it anyways.

I don't mind minor things. I'm mechanicically inclined and do just about anything aside from welding (don't have a welder) and transmission rebuilds (been there, f that!).

I'm not one to replace working parts with new/better. Then again, my beast is primarily road only. But, it's your money. That said, the rear links aren't hard to do, not as easy at the fronts, but not hard. You can do the fronts without even taking off the tires. It will take you longer to grab your tools and put them away than to swap out the links!

 

[Zagnut]

I'm not one to replace working parts with new/better. Then again, my beast is primarily road only. But, it's your money. That said, the rear links aren't hard to do, not as easy at the fronts, but not hard. You can do the fronts without even taking off the tires. It will take you longer to grab your tools and put them away than to swap out the links!

Agreed, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Since I have to do the rear struts, I figured I'd do the rear links since I'll be back there tearing stuff apart anyways. Besides, the rear links look like they've never been replaced. They're in pretty rough shape.

Fronts are new, so when I do brakes I'll just check the ball joints. Those probably haven't been replaced ever. Hopefully im wrong though, the front drives fantastic. No pulling, wobbling, vibrations, nothing.

 

[Zagnut]

Pre-sprayed nuts and bolts today with ye ol' PB Blaster.

Picked up the 24mm socket and a nice 13mm ratcheting box wrench that bends up and down today.

I was going to buy some sawzall blades, and then I saw it...a cordless Ryobi angle grinder. I'm already invested in their One+ battery tools, so at $40 I said screw it and bought it and a diamond cut off wheel. It'll eat through problems faster, and easier, than the sawzall. It won't see much use, but there have been a few times I wished I had one.

 

[Zagnut]

Wanted to say thanks to everyone. Struts are exactly what it was. Drives so much better.

Took me about 6 hours. Would've probably been 4 if not for a couple breaks and a trip to the hardware store for a tank of MAP gas for the torch.

Those little 13mm nylon lock nuts up top are a royal PITA!!! If it weren't for the torch and a wrench I forgot I inherited from my father, I never would have got those nuts off.

The wrench I speak of is called a multi wrench. See the attached pictures. That's not my wrench, but the same type. Fortunately it can be used kind of like a ratcheting box wrench. I highly recommend getting a wrench like this for doing the rear struts!

 

[Beachcomber86]

Glad you got it safely completed! Amazing how much better it rides with the new struts isn't it!?

 

[Zagnut]

Glad you got it safely completed! Amazing how much better it rides with the new struts isn't it!?

Indeed!
But now I can tell something in the front isn't right. Going over the same Michigan patched potholes, it exhibits a similar behavior. Except now the whole truck slightly does the "skipping" to the right.


The rear isn't kicking out like it was, and it's very subtle. Nothing like it was. Front strut "bounce test" says the fronts still have life left. But after doing the rears and seeing all the rotted bushings, I have a feeling all the front bushings are the same.

I'll find out next Sunday when I do the front brakes.

It's a blessing that gf works for a parts distributor, and I know how to do all this. Otherwise it would cost a fortune. I plan on doing all suspension bushings after front brakes and the bank 1 cat. Except I'm not sure what side bank 1 is yet. I think it's passenger side.

 

[Beachcomber86]

12 year old struts don't owe you anything. It's expensive but you might as well do them while you've got the tires off.

Did you do a 4 wheel alignment after installing the rear?

 

[Zagnut]

12 year old struts don't owe you anything. It's expensive but you might as well do them while you've got the tires off.

Did you do a 4 wheel alignment after installing the rear?

Nope, no alignment done.
I don't know much about rear alignments. But I didn't see anything for rear alignment.
How is the rear alignment done? Not very knowledgeable about suspension and alignment.

I know a front involves tie rods and etc. I torqued everything to spec out back.