4r55e problems after rebuild

[toy720]

ok i want to see if anyone will concur with this theory i posted a while back
that i had 1-2 flare would shift at about 3000 rpm all other gears no problem
well i climbed uderneath and found that the intermediate band locknut had come loose i adjusted and no problems until now same symptoms big flare
or delay between 1-2 at about 3000 rpms let off the gas a little and it will
hit second i climed back underneath the locknut was not loose this time so
what im thinking is that this band is being worn severly so i adjusted it in a little with some improvement but would have to adjust in some more to clear up problem but i dont want to go to tight i dont want to start eating a drum.
does anyone have the band adjustment specs on the 4r55e i think it is
120in lbs back out 2 turns the problem is i have to screw the adjuster in quite a bit before i feel any resistance? i did not replace the bands when i rebuilt it
(shoot me now) but they looked like they had some life on them also forgot to note the direction when i removed them and i may have this band in there
the opposite direction it was in there which i believe would lead to quick failure ???????????? sorry so long any ideas

 

[toy720]

bump

 

[toy720]

no thoughts?

 

[Glacier991]

Well I think you are on the right track here. The fact you got it back after an adjustment is a good indicator of where the problem lies. Yes the adjustment is 120 inch lbs and 2 turns.

Several possibilities come to mind. None of them especially consoling. Reusing the band without a apply side marker having been done was, well, we all make mistakes - don't feel bad. Reusing the old band - well it is done all the time, sometimes bands come out looking practically like new. You made a judgment call. Maybe in 20/20 you might have done it differently. Your earlier problem could have glazed the drum or friction material. OR, it MIGHT just not be adjusted quite right - yet. Finally it might be busted! (You'll know that as soon as you pull the pan).

Go give it another try at adjustment. If that doesn't work... I'd replace both bands while I was in there, and check the drum for glazing.... maybe buffing it up with 200 grit paper in a criss cross pattern. I hate to see you have to pull it again.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[toy720]

glacier that is what i was thinking but that sure is a heck of a mistake that know i
will have to probably pull it again let me ask you this would you go ahead and go with a
paper a rubber seal kit or just replace the bands and go with it the rebuild has about 3000 miles on it ? im going to pull the pan tomorrow and see whats up>

merry christmas to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
brad

 

[Glacier991]

Absent more, I am thinking if the band has given up the ghost I'd just replace the band(s). While you are that far down you might consider the Alto kit for more frictions in the forward drum. A worthy addition in my book and not available when I did the Diary.

 

[toy720]

well glacier you hit it right on pulled the pan and wallah the anchor side lug broke off
and was in the bottom the pan well this bad boy has got to come out from here on out i will always replace bands with new ones there was quite a bit of metal in the pan (smaller shavings ) so im guessing i will go ahead and get a new paper and rubber
set and tear it all down and clean her out and go back together with it know here is my big question can i drive it a little longer maybe a week just back and forth to work
15 miles total without doing much more damage or would you just park it.
also i cant remember do the 4r55e use mercon v or mercon dexronIII i looked on the
dipstick and it said use mercon i knew i should have kept one of my old quarts
i believe it is mercon dexronIII please advise.

thanks brad

 

[Glacier991]

I am always reluctant to say "go ahead and drive it" when I know we have metal floating about. It just causes more problems and does more damage. With small bits of metal... my advice (please do not shoot the messenger) is on rebuild to flush the cooler and replace the TC. As for driving... well it is your call. I'm not a big fan of doing it. If 70 miles is all you need to get you "home"... well.... I'm not gonna throw rocks either.

 

[toy720]

ok i get the picture i will maybe drive it or not i wont tell on myself either way do i
have to replace the tc with 3000 miles on rebuild i know there is no sure way of flushing the tc but thats another 130.00 or so i dont want to spend also any thought
on the fluid i just cant remember but i think it is mercon-dexronIII ???

 

[Glacier991]

Yes you want Mercon spec, not Mercon V. That didn;t start til '97.

 

[Glacier991]

PM me for some thoughts directions on saving on parts on your next rebuild.

 

[Glacier991]

And let me see if i cannot get you an inline filter setup for under $20.

(canya tell I am more than happy to go the extra mile for those who do their own?)

 

[toy720]

that is for sure is i do appreciate it the inline filter goes before the tranny cooler right
also im going to bypass the cooler thats in the radiator and go with a bigger one
external.
brad

 

[Glacier991]

Before you bypass the radiator "cooler" also think of it as a heater too.

 

[toy720]

you are saying that is bad correct? (heat kills) if i took youre post the right way

 

[Glacier991]

Well it helps heat up the fluid when cold (good) and it heats the fluid when hot (bad).

 

[toy720]

true that so maybe put a auxillary one in series and use both the reason i was wanting to
bypass was the radiator is really old maybe i should just get a new one?