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Solved 4WD, AWD, and Transfer Case Information and Operation

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
I have a 1997 Explorer XLT, part time electric shift. While driving down the highway at 55mph, I heard a grinding noise followed by complete disengagement of powertrain (i.e. not even park would engage). I was able to engage 4W LOW in order to pull off the road. The shift motor is OK. The problem is in the transfer case (Borg-Warner). Has anyone experienced a similar malfunction, and if so, could you pass some tips my way? Many thanks.
DREDOOM I am in the same issue at the momnent. It had happened twice in reverse and no problems in drive until today. I had read other posts that putting in 4-wheel low would halp and it got me home. I am sure it's the transfer case. Just trying to decide whether to rebuild nyself or buy a rebuilt
 



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DREDOOM I am in the same issue at the momnent. It had happened twice in reverse and no problems in drive until today. I had read other posts that putting in 4-wheel low would halp and it got me home. I am sure it's the transfer case. Just trying to decide whether to rebuild nyself or buy a rebuilt

Me too GOMAN...someone has a really good thread on here, full rebuild w/ upgrades complete with step by step photos. After looking at that thread, I recognized that the white plastic fragments in my fluid were what was left of the shift fork bushings. I have found some re-manufactured t-cases on line, but the core return shipping charges were holding me back a bit, and I too have contemplated just doing it myself. My next step is to just pull it out, split the case halves, and have a look see. Let me know how yours goes.
 






I just ordered a rebuilt T-case from these folks. 695.00 plus shipping both ways 85.00 and they did not charge a me a core fee. 12 months unlimited mileage. Gonna take the dive.
http://www.transfercases.com/
 






This link has good information: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/oct2007/techtips.htm. Here's a copy of the link:

How to Diagnose Ford 4WD Problems.

Posted 10/8/2007
By Bill Strehle

“Most of the calls concern diagnosing a dead system or flashing 4WD indicator lights. The 4WD systems will vary by vehicle application, but the diagnostics for all systems are basically the same.”

Almost every year, we get the seasonal rush of phone calls on Ford four-wheel drive (4WD) problems. Most of the calls concern diagnosing a dead system or flashing 4WD indicator lights. The 4WD systems will vary by vehicle application, but the diagnostics for all systems are basically the same.

When the 4WD lights flash on and off, this indicates that there are 4WD-related trouble codes in the 4WD control module. Sometimes 4WD lights never illuminate.

The first step in diagnosing the system is to establish communication and retrieve trouble codes from the control module. After retrieving the codes, write them down, clear the codes, and retest to see which codes are regenerated. False codes can be set if a component is disconnected when the key is turned on.

If the 4WD lights flash on and off, and no codes are found in the 4WD control module, try clearing the codes anyway. After a certain amount of key cycles, the codes will normally clear from the 4WD control module, but the module will not respond to commands until it is re-initialized by clearing the codes or disconnecting the battery to erase its memory.

If your scan tool will not communicate with the 4WD module, first verify that the scan tool has the proper software, and the latest updates. If it does, then try another scan tool. If it still has no communication, the power, and grounds that are supplied to the module will need to be tested. See if the scan tool will communicate with the other modules on the shared communication network. If they're OK, check the harness from the data link connector (DLC) for an open circuit to the 4WD module.

Most 1997-2001 4WD systems were controlled by the generic electronic control module (GEM). This system monitored the 4x4 mode select switch, and controlled external relays to power up the shift motor to move it into the commanded position.

Ford then decided to use a stand-alone 4WD control module in some 2002-2004 vehicles. The system works basically the same, but instead of using external relays, it has drivers in the control module to apply power, and ground to the shift motor. Just like a power window motor, the rotational direction of the shift motor is controlled by forward or reverse polarity from the drivers that are integral to the shift module.

Starting in 2004, for some applications, Ford moved the 4WD commands to the powertrain control module, and reverted back to using external relays to control the shift motor.

Regardless of which module is controlling the system, the module relies on four contact plates that are integral to the shift motor to tell it what position the shift motor is in. The system will fail, and be unresponsive if the control module does not know the exact position of the shift motor. Usually if it is a contact plate problem, the 4WD module will output code P1867 for contact plate circuit failure.

There are four contact plate sensors in the shift motor. The 4WD module sends a reference voltage (V-REF) to these contact plates, and monitors this voltage. The actual REF voltage will vary depending upon the calibration of the module, but the REF voltage should read the same on all of the contact plates.

There is a fifth wire that is a ground. It will ground the V-REF depending upon the position of the shift motor. The contact plate parameter identification descriptions (PIDS) are usually labeled A, B, C, and D on the scan tool data. Using this data, the PIDS can be monitored to see if they read correctly. The PIDS will read open or closed, and change correctly when the shift motor moves. The PIDS are not universal to all Ford vehicles, so you will need to compare your actual readings to Ford's PID chart for your specific vehicle.

If the PID chart is unavailable, monitor the contact plate PIDS, and simply unplug the shift motor. When this happens, all four contact plates should read the same, either open or closed. Depending upon your scan tool software, these PIDS may differ from the PID chart, reading the exact opposite. This is usually a software glitch, but as long as they read the same, the wiring harness from the shift motor is usually OK. If one or more contact plates read differently, check the wiring from the shift motor to the 4WD module for shorts or opens.

If the contact plates read correct unplugged but read incorrect with the shift motor plugged in, the shift motor will need to be replaced, as the contact plates are not serviced individually.

If all of the contact plates read the same, each circuit can be tested individually by providing the ground (the common fifth wire) to that contact plate circuit. Monitor your scan tool data, and ground each contact plate wire in succession looking for the scan tool data to change from open or closed. The ground is usually identified as "position return" or "encoder ground" on the electrical schematics. Since this article is for generic applications, you will need to access the correct wiring diagram to identify the contact plates A, B, C, and D wiring colors and the common ground. If the wiring harness tests OK, replace the shift motor, and retest.
 






How do I know it's working 4X4

I know that this has been asked before and I apoligize, but I am new to the Explorer world. Recently purchased a 94 Explorer V6 w/ electronic touch. I was told to clean out the hubs real good and Use a heavy oil to coat everything.

I did this. I also four pointed the truck and put it in and out of 4wd. The front shafts rotated as did the rear wheels. I put everything back together and tried it again. Seemed to work. Thought I was ready for winter. Now that we have snow in MI. I have turned on the 4wd and pulled into a snowy field. WELL I'm stuck. backs spin, front don't move. So I pulled myself out and went up and down the road turned the 4wd on and off and could hear the front end lock in. So I stopped and turned on the low range. Hit the field again. Yep stuck. So I believe that it don't work.

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreaciated. I am willing to pull it a part again, but just don"t know what to look for. Nothing looked broke the first time

HELP
 






Hey, I have a 5spd 97 sport with "Control Trac". I don't know if I have locking hubs or the vacume acuator. A few weeks ago well into winter I was playing on some Ice and know the "Control Trac" engaged. The 4wheel drive selector dial was in the "Auto" position, I think something got jamed though because The front differential is now constantly turning as I drive on dry flat pavement. The noise is quite noticeable. I jacked up the front end so both steers are off the ground and saw the front drive shaft turn as I spun the wheels. This as I said is with the selector switch in the "Auto" position. Shouldn't they be free spinning?? Are my hubs still locked or do I even have locking hubs?? Whats still engaged. Would appreciate the help.
 












T/C rebuild

My '96 did the same thing it was the t/c. The PTU was completly destroyed, and the chain had like a full inch in slack. I'd say your best bet would be to find a used one for cheap, because rebuilt ones/new ones are pretty spendy $1,000^^^ You could try and have someone rebuild it, but I have no idea on the cost. I picked my used one up for $200. Good luck!

I have a 96 LTD Ed Explorer. I had the transfer case rebuilt at a cost of AU $3000.
 






I just put in a new transmission in feb for 2300.00 had to take it back twice to the shop cause still wasn't right - last mon took it back again cause i have no reverse and grinding in drive - they r saying it is the transfer case and want 800.00 - what do i do
 






I'd get on rockauto.com and get a brand new t/c. About US$1200 for a borg-warner t/c. Would have been a lot cheaper for me than having it rebuilt for $3000. But I got ripped, so who knows. Get some other quotes.
 






4x4 doesn't engage

Hello to all that read this;

I bought a 92' Ranger 4x4 that had the driveline pulled out. When I put the driveline back in the engaged 4x4 light on the dash stayed on continusly (the light stayed on when the driveline was out also). Thanks to information found here ( thank you), I replaced the shift motor. Now I do hear clicking from the back . But it will not engage into 4x4. The brain had all indications of working before I switched the shift motor, so I don't think that is the problem. My question is...does the shift motor have to be lined up a certian way with the transfercase in order to engage when pushing button on dash? Or does someone have suggestions as what I could do? It is getting really cold and the snow is blowing. Would like to get the 4x4 running asap. Any information would be helpful. I bought a Chiltons, but it has poor information on this subject. Thank you for your time. Much appreciated
wildcrafterb@wildblue.net:(:(:(
 






I have a 92 ranger and cant seem to find my shift module can anyone help?
 






Mod

THE SHIFT MOD IS BEHIND THE DRIVERS SEAT. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT.! HAD A TIME FINDING THAT MYSELF. THIS SITE IS VERY USEFUL. HOPE THIS HELPS. BETH:salute:
 






Thanks Beth, but for some reason mine is mounted under the drivers seat. Ive been looking for it for about a week now and went to pick something up off the floor and just happened to see it.
 






Hey, I have a 5spd 97 sport with "Control Trac". I don't know if I have locking hubs or the vacume acuator. A few weeks ago well into winter I was playing on some Ice and know the "Control Trac" engaged. The 4wheel drive selector dial was in the "Auto" position, I think something got jamed though because The front differential is now constantly turning as I drive on dry flat pavement. The noise is quite noticeable. I jacked up the front end so both steers are off the ground and saw the front drive shaft turn as I spun the wheels. This as I said is with the selector switch in the "Auto" position. Shouldn't they be free spinning?? Are my hubs still locked or do I even have locking hubs?? Whats still engaged. Would appreciate the help.

no you dont have locking hubs, they are permenetly connected to dif via half-shafts & always spin the front driveshaft. The locking/Unlocking is done via a magnetic clutch in t-case. What noise do you have going on??? just driving noramly? you could have fragged the t-case or hurt the front diff no way of telling w/o a look though- you'll have todig into her &try to locate the culprit. good luck!
 






1999 Explorer AWD V8 clunking noise in drive train

I saw some posts where there was a "clunk" noise from the drive train just below the drivers seat when starting out from a stop in forward or reverse.
The wheel did not have to be in any particular orientation for it to happen.

2 folks posted that their CV joints made this sound. I went and bought one but took it back after thinking it over. (Restocking fee.)

My noise sounded to me like something slipping and then catching but my mechanic friend kept telling me it couldn't be that. When he looked up the factory transfer case internal drawings it became plain that the transfer case uses a chain to drive the AWD front end. The Haynes manual doesn't show the internal parts. I must have stretched the chain or rounded off a gear.

I bought a used transfer case (be careful to receive exact or compatible model) and installed it. That was the proper fix. Rebuilding is generally not an option on these.

Thanks to all for the great posts.
Raincoast49
 






1994 ford explorer automatic 4x4

I baught a 94 explorer sport for 650 bucks got the brakes done and wanted to try out the 4 wheel drive, and i got stuck because of this problem.

:mad:
When i attemp to put it in 4 wheel drive and then in drive it makes a LOUD grinding clicking noise coming form the front passenger tire well, but when i put it in reverse it works fine... ive been to 3 or 4 shops and no one can tell me what it is. I know i need a bushing for that side but that tire just doesnt want to spin or grip when engaged in 4 wheel drive. HELP please.
 






just read your info on disengaging the transfer case. I am in the u.k and have a standard '94 xlt with electronic shift. After trying four wheel drive it is now stuck in 4 wd. I can hear the shift module in the back making a noise but it won't shift back into 2wd. If i jack all 4 wheels up off the groud and try to shift will this have the same effect as a lift. Please help. Thanks.
i have ;same; problem
i have removed motor and am trying to 'manually' shift to 2h wd, but it won't move.. Any ideas?..............
 



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'94 sTUCK IN 4L0

How 'hard' can i pry on the stem to manually get it to 2h ? Thanks
 






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